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Old Nov 07, 2012, 09:07 AM
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Ordered those two things

Anyone know where I can source a plug suitable to wire to and use for the serial port on the bottom of the drone? or at least the type so i can do a generic search?
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Old Nov 07, 2012, 09:25 AM
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Ordered those two things
Two things?

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Anyone know where I can source a plug suitable to wire to and use for the serial port on the bottom of the drone? or at least the type so i can do a generic search?
You have all the part numbers on the HW page
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Old Nov 07, 2012, 09:27 AM
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Indeed, cheers
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Old Nov 07, 2012, 09:32 AM
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Indeed, cheers
What is the second thing you ordered? Hope not FTDI which is not needed when you use nano.
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Old Nov 07, 2012, 09:40 AM
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Nah the logic converter board

Still would be open to suggestions for the serial plug for Drone 2 as the one in the H/W page is based in USA and is 12 postage, so any supplier in uk
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Old Nov 07, 2012, 09:42 AM
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Nah the logic converter board
I see.

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Still would be open to suggestions for the serial plug for Drone 2 as the one in the H/W page is based in USA and is 12 postage, so any supplier in uk
Check the the Manufacturer Part No on Mouser page, google for a supplier in UK
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Old Nov 07, 2012, 10:04 AM
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For reference iv ordered this from RS in UK

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pcb-headers/7644711/

seems to match pin pitch etc, will soon find out i guess
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Old Nov 07, 2012, 11:26 AM
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For reference iv ordered this from RS in UK

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pcb-headers/7644711/

seems to match pin pitch etc, will soon find out i guess
Looks ok
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Old Nov 07, 2012, 11:46 AM
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Might actually do a proper step by step with pics for idiots like me to follow for doing this on drone 2 IF im successful with it all lol
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Old Nov 07, 2012, 04:07 PM
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Wow

Wow, I turn my back for a day, and the post grows by 5 pages

My thoughts on what I've just read:

Of the 4 config choices I have now, I only use 2.....just sayin!

MacGyver puts together a nice build of the MiruMod, but they're bloody expensive, and as for customer support, you can forget it. My introduction to this forum was when my new MacGyver mod kept auto landing for no apparent reason, and Mike stopped answering my emails. We bounced the problem around here for a few days until Miru came up with a solution, which he implemented in rev.0.14+.

SJW, Building your own mod is the best way to go if you can get over the intimidation factor. Familiarize yourself with the parts and the wiring diagrams on Pawelsky's site, and have a go. I can post photo's of my mod during construction if you think they will help. I like the high altitude flights, as you know, and I get a kick out of knowing it's only possible because of a piece of hardware I built with my own two hands.

If you haven't ordered the Spektrum RX yet, I can highly recommend the Orange RX from Hobbyking. They're really cheap (around 8 quid), and very reliable.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OrangeRX-R...9072%26ps%3D54

Setting up the Dx6i is easy enough, but I strongly recommend changing the power setting from the EU setting to the US one. I was having some range problems which this seemed to cure (thanks P.)
Good luck
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Old Nov 08, 2012, 07:38 AM
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Wow, I turn my back for a day, and the post grows by 5 pages

My thoughts on what I've just read:

Of the 4 config choices I have now, I only use 2.....just sayin!
Going to guess: Standard and Wild.

Both the 'wrong' Hull type (weight =inertia/momentum, presumably) and whether you are Indoors or Outdoors (wind compensation on V2 Drone) affects performance, which is only why I'd asked for the option to toggle the flags fairly easily. Still fingers crossed it's somewhere on the Todo list.

But completely objectively: people other than me should test fly using an iDevice and see how differently it handles starting and stopping with various combinations of Indoor/Outdoor/No Hulls, with/without heavier batteries+Mod weight and a GoPro etc. and how affected by wind - or lack of it - given 'correct' and 'wrong' values for Hull Type and Indoor/Outdoor Control flags set in FreeFlight it actually is.
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Old Nov 08, 2012, 07:49 AM
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But completely objectively: people other than me should test fly using an iDevice and see how differently it handles starting and stopping with various combinations of Indoor/Outdoor/No Hulls, with/without heavier batteries+Mod weight and a GoPro etc. and how affected by wind - or lack of it - given 'correct' and 'wrong' values for Hull Type and Indoor/Outdoor Control flags set in FreeFlight it actually is.
Brandigan, you've made your point many times, please stop bugging everyone that thinks differently. Let miru decide and be patient.

Pretty please. Peace
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Old Nov 08, 2012, 08:04 AM
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Brandigan, you've made your point many times, please stop bugging everyone that thinks differently. Let miru decide and be patient.

Pretty please. Peace
I'm sorry, that was not my intention. As you'd quite sensibly asked for other opinions to avoid miru spending time on what might be a 'niche' option and as the feature isn't there yet, the only current way of seeing if it would have an effect would be to test using an iDevice, otherwise it's just guesswork.
But no more about it from me.
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Old Nov 08, 2012, 10:07 AM
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Telneting

When I telnet into my AR DRONE, what do I need to look for to see if the companion program is loading?
I have tried everything under the sun to pin point why my arduino nano starts blinking and then goes solid. I get no response from my DX6i remote. But in SETUP mode, everything works fine.
Is it possible that the serial connector is fried?

Thanks,

Dante1
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Old Nov 08, 2012, 11:07 AM
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When I telnet into my AR DRONE, what do I need to look for to see if the companion program is loading?
I have tried everything under the sun to pin point why my arduino nano starts blinking and then goes solid. I get no response from my DX6i remote. But in SETUP mode, everything works fine.
Is it possible that the serial connector is fried?

Thanks,

Dante1
When you telnet into the drone in this state (LED solid), you can check a couple of things.
Do a 'ls -l /tmp' . You should see one of the files 'at2so.arm.gz' or 'at2so.arm'. If you see the first, the upload is still in progress, a very unlikely event since it is fairly fast and hard to catch. But if you see it the Arduino sent everything it will send and the receiving program (dd) is still expecting data or the 'unzip' did not work because of a corrupted file. If you see 'at2so.arm' the upload and the 'unzip' worked. If that is the case, do a 'ps' command and find out if 'at2so' is running (would be in process list). If so, 'at2so' is waiting for data from the Arduino and the Arduino did not see the start character from 'at2so'. If you get this far, most likely there is something wrong with the data path from the drone to the Arduino.
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