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Old Jul 25, 2012, 05:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Brandigan View Post
Ok, apologies for the noob question, but if I'm going to build one of these for my 1.0, does the newer wiring diagram for 1.0 and 2.0 mean that I'll be able to swap it safely if/when I upgrade to a 2.0 drone with just a minor change to the connections on the level shifter?
Yes, but you will also have to change the connector from 8 pin female to 10 pin male.
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Old Jul 25, 2012, 05:20 AM
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Originally Posted by pawelsky View Post
Yes, but you will also have to change the connector from 8 pin female to 10 pin male.
Oops, yes. Missed that. So will a couple of jumpers on the level shifter and a small connector before the male/female plugs allow me to swap between the two safely enough?
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Old Jul 25, 2012, 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Brandigan View Post
Oops, yes. Missed that. So will a couple of jumpers on the level shifter and a small connector before the male/female plugs allow me to swap between the two safely enough?
Yes. And you will actually need only one jumper (or a dip switch) between LV and RX0. The rest can be soldered with wires.

As for the connector you can also consider just sticking the male angle pin header into the mod's female plug to convert it to male. Just make sure the pins are long enough to have good contact on both sides.
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Last edited by pawelsky; Jul 25, 2012 at 05:38 AM.
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Old Jul 25, 2012, 05:41 AM
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Originally Posted by pawelsky View Post
Yes. And you will actually need only one jumper (or a dip switch) between LV and RX0. The rest can be soldered with wires.

As for the connector you can also consider just sticking the male angle pin header into the mod's female plug to convert it to male. Just make sure the pins are long enough to have good contact on both sides.
Even better. Thanks.
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Old Jul 28, 2012, 10:34 AM
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Just built one of these for my Drone 2.0, using a Flysky CT6B and have a few problems I can't find a solution to.

Whilst flying if I toggle between flight modes, the drone doesn't land and take off. In setup mode, it does show the correct Flight Mode. Does it not need to land with Drone 2.0 when switching?

Also, if the drone cuts out (red LEDs) due to hitting something, I can't get it flying again without a power-cycle. I've tried ESTP (hold it, goes red then green) but still no joy.

Anyone had the same issues or have a solution?
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Old Jul 28, 2012, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Fastlane76 View Post
Just built one of these for my Drone 2.0, using a Flysky CT6B and have a few problems I can't find a solution to.

Whilst flying if I toggle between flight modes, the drone doesn't land and take off. In setup mode, it does show the correct Flight Mode. Does it not need to land with Drone 2.0 when switching?
Switching between flightmodes does not involve a land unless you switch it to LAND or your setup is such that you have to go through LAND between FM1 and FM2. If that's the case you should change that!
Quote:

Also, if the drone cuts out (red LEDs) due to hitting something, I can't get it flying again without a power-cycle. I've tried ESTP (hold it, goes red then green) but still no joy.

Anyone had the same issues or have a solution?
The procedure is: switch flightmode to LAND, retrieve drone and set it level, push rudder stick right, this should clear the emergency (LEDs green), then rudder stick left for a FTRIM and then switch flightmode to FM1/2 to launch.
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Old Jul 28, 2012, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by miru View Post
Switching between flightmodes does not involve a land unless you switch it to LAND or your setup is such that you have to go through LAND between FM1 and FM2. If that's the case you should change that!
The procedure is: switch flightmode to LAND, retrieve drone and set it level, push rudder stick right, this should clear the emergency (LEDs green), then rudder stick left for a FTRIM and then switch flightmode to FM1/2 to launch.
If I'm going to build one, is the FlySky CT6B neccessary, or all you need to keep the cost down? As a FlySky FS-TH9X isn't all that expensive and might be useful for something else, is there any reason not to get one of those?
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 12:59 AM
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If I'm going to build one, is the FlySky CT6B neccessary, or all you need to keep the cost down? As a FlySky FS-TH9X isn't all that expensive and might be useful for something else, is there any reason not to get one of those?
The original mod uses an AR6100 and a DX7. The CT6B is part of a very reasonable TX/RX package that can be used to drive the mod, but you have to know what you are doing to succeed. From what I gather the TH9X, once you understand how to program it, is less challenging than the CT6B set. I use ORANGERX ($6)receivers for replications of the mod and never had any 'real' issues on that side. For the TX part my only experiences are with DX6, DX7 and some that were to complicated for me to figure out.
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 03:06 AM
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9 CAP Futaba 72 MHz

I am using a Futaba 9 CAP 72Mhz to do my mod will it work? does anyone have advice or suggestions? I got it figured out but when i plug into the AR 2.0 i get no lights on my MOD and the AR boots normal. I have the receiver battery plugged in What am i doing wrong.
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Last edited by cybersarg; Jul 29, 2012 at 12:37 PM.
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by cybersarg View Post
I got it figured out but when i plug into the AR 2.0 i get no lights on my MOD and the AR boots normal. I have the receiver battery plugged in What am i doing wrong.
Don't use the receiver battery! Mod (and the receiver) is powered from the drone.
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 12:59 PM
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Did that but still nothing??? test fine on PC but not when plugged in
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by cybersarg View Post
Did that but still nothing??? test fine on PC but not when plugged in
Make sure your connection between mod and drone is OK - plug, level shifter, diode in the right direction (if you use it) etc. A photo would help to find out what is wrong.
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 01:29 PM
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Attached are Pics i changed my connector now i have a good connection but no power to NANO Board.
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by cybersarg View Post
Attached are Pics i changed my connector now i have a good connection but no power to NANO Board.
Looks to me like you have power cable is connected one pin too far (to GND instead to VIN). Or rather you are missing the power cable (the pink one) completely - hard to tell

I can't see that well on the picture, but is there a connection between BOTH RXOs and LV?

Also you seem to be missing a connection between Arduino's 5V and LV of the level shifter.
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Last edited by pawelsky; Jul 30, 2012 at 03:06 AM.
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 01:49 PM
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Thought the wire with Diode was optional. The black wire is soldered to pin 7 GND.
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