Welcome - this thread has been requested by Firefox675 to support questions/discussions/troubleshooting regarding the warthox FPV naked and warthox v2.0 Plug-n-Play boards for MultiWiiCopters running on Arduino Code

The main Wiki for these boards is at multiwiicopter.com/pages/multiwiicopter-wiki

Specific information about these boards is at the product pages
Plug-n-Play warthox v2 here
Naked warthox v2 here
Naked warthox v1.2 here

Recyling a Nintendo Nunchuk and Wii Motion Plus how-to-videos are here

Cheers Quinton

If you have any questions please post them in this thread or email me at info@multiwiicopter.com - (NOT via PM - PMs are like from the 1950's)

Question - What is the meaning of the LEDS' on a warthox board?
Answers - see below

RED LED = power to 328 CPU is ON - should always be on
The CPU board gets power from the 5v BUS ; or USB
The Rx and 5v BUS gets power from a UBEC or a BEC on one of your ESCs - ; NOT via USB

GREEN LED on the CPU board and the Hi-Output LED(either bright white or bright green) have several functions
1) GREEN LEDS are on and stay on when the board is armed
are OFF and stay OFF when the board is DISARMED
2) blink rapidly 5 times for stick calibration of the GYRO
3) blink rapidly for stick calibration of the ACC
4) blink during initial power up then go off
5) blink slowly if a problem is detected on start-up or code error ; or THRO not below MINTHROTTLE
6) blinks once to indicate the CPU compute's a leveling correction
7) blinks rapidly 5 times for each stick-banging throw in ACC trimming "learning" mode

For trouble-shooting see the stick diagrams diagrams on the wiki page.

What is the AUTO LEVEL LED for? - The reason it is called AUTO LEVEL LED is that it us used to verify the function of the 'learning' trimming of the stick-banging method for the ACC (also the reason why it faces backwards - faces the pilot when he lands to trim the ACC) - because this is done at the flying field with the copter in the outdoors/sun it has to be bright enough to see at 10 paces - so land - disarm - it goes OFF - go to learning mode (see wiki ACC trimming) then for each stick-banging throw you will see the 5 fast flashes of this LED. Arm again - goes on - fly

At the moment there is no provision for a dedicated mode LED - ''status'' in the 1.7 software in the form of a separate LED - a good idea for future versions of the software - but you verify this is working in the GUI - then mark the Tx switch (you have selected for modes - see below in GUI) with red sticker, if you need it.

I fly in ACRO mode and only switch to LEVEL mode for high hovers and high -> low hover decent Aerial photo flights or FPV

This is AWESOME! Great idea! THANK YOU!

Tom

Hello Quinton! Is there any reason why I am not able to upload a sketch from the Arduino IDE once the Arduino has been soldered and connected to my Warthox 2.0 board?

I am at my wits end trying to figure this out. I have checked, and re-checked my connections and solder joints, and cannot figure this out!

My first Ardiuno Mini Pro was soldered up along with an orginal WM+ and NK, as per your videos. Everything was clean, neat, and appeared perfect. When I tried to upload the software, I was faced with the dreaded "No sync" error everytime. I spent hours trying different com ports, re-loading drivers, trying on different computer systems, to no avail. Oddly, the Arduino never seemed to go through it's normal boot process - so I figured it was possible I just had a bad Arduino.

I then tried a new arduino mini pro, but went ahead and connected it before soldering to make sure that I could upload to it properly. I had no trouble uploading code numerous times to it, so I went ahead and soldered this new Arduino back onto my Warthox board. Once completed, I went to configure my sketch and upload the new settings - and the dreaded "No Sync" Errors were back! Of course, I tried drivers and com ports again, but it didn't resolve anything.

I went ahead and unsoldered the Arduino from the Warthox board assuming that there must be something i've done wrong, but now that it is removed - I can't flash it anymore either!

I now have ordered two new Arduino Mini Pro 16mhz / 5V boards (again), but would prefer to not waste these ones

If you have any thoughts on this, it would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Mike

What is the difference between the Warthox board and the Paris board? They both use the arduino Pro mini, Wii sensor, Nunchuk or BMA 180. They both have autolevel.

I cannot figure out the difference?

Don't feel alone Mike, I have been down the same road. I have a pile of Arduinos as well as WM+ sensors that are freaked in some way. It doesn't matter if they are on the Paris/Wartox board or glued to plwood. For me...it just happens, A lot!

Best of luck...


Mike

Originally Posted by FL62

Hello Quinton! Is there any reason why I am not able to upload a sketch from the Arduino IDE once the Arduino has been soldered and connected to my Warthox 2.0 board?

I am at my wits end trying to figure this out. I have checked, and re-checked my connections and solder joints, and cannot figure this out!

My first Ardiuno Mini Pro was soldered up along with an orginal WM+ and NK, as per your videos. Everything was clean, neat, and appeared perfect. When I tried to upload the software, I was faced with the dreaded "No sync" error everytime. I spent hours trying different com ports, re-loading drivers, trying on different computer systems, to no avail. Oddly, the Arduino never seemed to go through it's normal boot process - so I figured it was possible I just had a bad Arduino.

I then tried a new arduino mini pro, but went ahead and connected it before soldering to make sure that I could upload to it properly. I had no trouble uploading code numerous times to it, so I went ahead and soldered this new Arduino back onto my Warthox board. Once completed, I went to configure my sketch and upload the new settings - and the dreaded "No Sync" Errors were back! Of course, I tried drivers and com ports again, but it didn't resolve anything.

I went ahead and unsoldered the Arduino from the Warthox board assuming that there must be something i've done wrong, but now that it is removed - I can't flash it anymore either!

I now have ordered two new Arduino Mini Pro 16mhz / 5V boards (again), but would prefer to not waste these ones

If you have any thoughts on this, it would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Mike

i'm having problem with one of the board..as discuss on Paris thread..some peps having a short, causing erratic behavior.. i have two warthox red board.. one works flawlessly (a t-copter) the other one for my Quad, that have erratic behavior.. both have original WM+ and NK..when i use the Quad's Ardrino on the t-copter it works fine...i've re-soldered all connection and check continuity.. still erratic..unflyable..... i'm think one board is defective.. i'll go back to my diy pc board for my quad..

Originally Posted by FL62

Hello Quinton! Is there any reason why I am not able to upload a sketch from the Arduino IDE once the Arduino has been soldered and connected to my Warthox 2.0 board?

I am at my wits end trying to figure this out. I have checked, and re-checked my connections and solder joints, and cannot figure this out!

My first Ardiuno Mini Pro was soldered up along with an orginal WM+ and NK, as per your videos. Everything was clean, neat, and appeared perfect. When I tried to upload the software, I was faced with the dreaded "No sync" error everytime. I spent hours trying different com ports, re-loading drivers, trying on different computer systems, to no avail. Oddly, the Arduino never seemed to go through it's normal boot process - so I figured it was possible I just had a bad Arduino.

I then tried a new arduino mini pro, but went ahead and connected it before soldering to make sure that I could upload to it properly. I had no trouble uploading code numerous times to it, so I went ahead and soldered this new Arduino back onto my Warthox board. Once completed, I went to configure my sketch and upload the new settings - and the dreaded "No Sync" Errors were back! Of course, I tried drivers and com ports again, but it didn't resolve anything.

I went ahead and unsoldered the Arduino from the Warthox board assuming that there must be something i've done wrong, but now that it is removed - I can't flash it anymore either!

I now have ordered two new Arduino Mini Pro 16mhz / 5V boards (again), but would prefer to not waste these ones

If you have any thoughts on this, it would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Mike

Hi Mike. You've probably already tried this but it's something that worked for me. Just before you press Upload in the Arduino IDE, press the reset button on your Pro Mini. Worked for me when I had problems

Ben.

Originally Posted by ben123

Hi Mike. You've probably already tried this but it's something that worked for me. Just before you press Upload in the Arduino IDE, press the reset button on your Pro Mini. Worked for me when I had problems

Ben.

Hi Ben, Thank you for your suggestion! I had read about pressing the reset button before uploading, and tried it a few times. I also read somewhere that it might be a timing thing, and apparently pressing it somewhere between 1-10 seconds before uploading a sketch might help.

I haven't had any luck with this so far, but will definitely try it again....

Mike

Originally Posted by FL62

Hello Quinton! Is there any reason why I am not able to upload a sketch from the Arduino IDE once the Arduino has been soldered and connected to my Warthox 2.0 board?

I am at my wits end trying to figure this out. I have checked, and re-checked my connections and solder joints, and cannot figure this out!

My first Ardiuno Mini Pro was soldered up along with an orginal WM+ and NK, as per your videos. Everything was clean, neat, and appeared perfect. When I tried to upload the software, I was faced with the dreaded "No sync" error everytime. I spent hours trying different com ports, re-loading drivers, trying on different computer systems, to no avail. Oddly, the Arduino never seemed to go through it's normal boot process - so I figured it was possible I just had a bad Arduino.

I then tried a new arduino mini pro, but went ahead and connected it before soldering to make sure that I could upload to it properly. I had no trouble uploading code numerous times to it, so I went ahead and soldered this new Arduino back onto my Warthox board. Once completed, I went to configure my sketch and upload the new settings - and the dreaded "No Sync" Errors were back! Of course, I tried drivers and com ports again, but it didn't resolve anything.

I went ahead and unsoldered the Arduino from the Warthox board assuming that there must be something i've done wrong, but now that it is removed - I can't flash it anymore either!

I now have ordered two new Arduino Mini Pro 16mhz / 5V boards (again), but would prefer to not waste these ones

If you have any thoughts on this, it would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Mike

FL62 - Recommend two things to check - 1) Your FTDI is 5v ; 2) That the female pins on your FTDI are making 100% contact with the male pins in the ProMini. when you solder them in its possible to have an irregular alignment.

Unplug the FTDI - You can sand down the front of the FTDI case until you see the female clasps - then using a spike - gently press them in, so they will grip the male pin more firmly - In my opinion the FTDI is most likely causing your problems due to one bad pin.

Originally Posted by barok

i'm having problem with one of the board..as discuss on Paris thread..some peps having a short, causing erratic behavior.. i have two warthox red board.. one works flawlessly (a t-copter) the other one for my Quad, that have erratic behavior.. both have original WM+ and NK..when i use the Quad's Ardrino on the t-copter it works fine...i've re-soldered all connection and check continuity.. still erratic..unflyable..... i'm think one board is defective.. i'll go back to my diy pc board for my quad..

Barok - That GUI capture has some radical settings - Recommend you work with the defaults - One thing with the GUI is you need to wait for 5-10 secs between press COMMS > START -> READ otherwise you can cause data corruptions in the PID values - usually they all go to zero.

Rippled data on a static(stationary board is usually a sensor side error. Recommend you check the SDA/SCL and try the MP on it's own. Move the MP+ Vcc input from PIN12 to the RAW pin on the ProMini to bypass the Diode. Test it again.

Regarding your 2nd board - have you got any specific information which makes you believes it's not a DIY fault and is a board fault? - You are welcome to make a point but it would be helpful to get a specific piece of evidence to back up your claim. Nothings impossible in life - but these boards are made to the highest standard using 105um copper tracks (3 times thicker than any other MultiCopter board), MilSpecFr4 insulation and every board is tested at the factory prior to being shipped.

You are welcome to return your board for testing and inspection if you want to make a specific warranty claim. If it's indeed defective in any way from manufacture I will be happy to replace the board.

Originally Posted by AlouetteIII

FL62 - Recommend two things to check - 1) Your FTDI is 5v ; 2) That the female pins on your FTDI are making 100% contact with the male pins in the ProMini. when you solder them in its possible to have an irregular alignment.

Unplug the FTDI - You can sand down the front of the FTDI case until you see the female clasps - then using a spike - gently press them in, so they will grip the male pin more firmly - In my opinion the FTDI is most likely causing your problems due to one bad pin.

Quinton,
Excellent point! I will check out the FTDI Adapter. It is in fact the 5v version from Sparkfun, and I tried a friend's same board too. I did use a liquid type solder flux, so I wonder if it flowed through and is causing poor contact on the pins. I will clean them thouroughly....

Thanks for your help!

Mike

So I assembled my naked Warthox and tested it today. It is about the most stable quad I have ever flown. I think this one has AP potential.

I started off with a naked Warthox from Quinton. Also picked up the BMA180 and LLC. Some connectors for the servo wires too. I already have the Arduino Pro mini since I made an order with Sparkfun earlier.

So just took apart a Wii Motion Plus and went to town. I used all red wire since I don't have any rainbow stuff lying around.

I even put together a new frame from left over parts.

The first hop was a bit strange. Turned out the motor was spinning the wrong way on the right front. I couldn't tell which way the motor spin when the propeller was not on.

I cut up my old camera mount to use as landing skids. I made the camera mount arch from scratch. I laid carbon fiber fabric inside a 6" PVC conduit coupling and inflate a balloon to push the epoxy impregnated fabric against the side wall. When the epoxy dried I had a nice carbon fiber arch. I than cut it into the desire width for various things. I used it as landing gear struts for my ECO 8 helicopter and camera mount for my Trex 600.

Q: What is the difference between the Warthox board and the Paris board?

Is one better than the other? I am trying to choose a board for my first Quad flier. So many boards out their.

Originally Posted by Swampbuoy

Q: What is the difference between the Warthox board and the Paris board?

Is one better than the other? I am trying to choose a board for my first Quad flier. So many boards out their.

I may well be wrong here but I think the Paris board gives some additional header pin outs for camera stabilisation gimbals.