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Old Apr 08, 2011, 10:33 PM
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PARIS Aerial Photography Plug-n-Play boards for MultiWiiCopters

Welcome - this thread has been requested by Firefox675 to support questions/discussions/troubleshooting regarding the PARIS Aerial Photography naked and Plug-n-Play boards for MultiWiiCopters running on Arduino Code

The main Wiki for these boards is at multiwiicopter.com/pages/multiwiicopter-wiki

Specific information about these boards is at the product pages
Plug-n-Play PARIS v3 here
Naked PARIS v3 here
Naked PARIS v2 here

Recyling a Nintendo Nunchuk and Wii Motion Plus how-to-videos are here

Cheers Quinton

If you have any questions please post them in this thread or email me at info@multiwiicopter.com - (NOT via PM - PMs are like from the 1950's)
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Old Apr 08, 2011, 10:43 PM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
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Question - What is the meaning of the LEDS'on a PARIS board?
Answers - see below

RED LED = power to 328 CPU is ON - should always be on
The CPU board gets power from the 5v BUS ; or USB
The Rx and 5v BUS gets power from a UBEC or a BEC on one of your ESCs - ; NOT via USB

GREEN LED on the CPU board and the Hi-Output LED(either bright white or bright green) have several functions
1) GREEN LEDS are on and stay on when the board is armed
are OFF and stay OFF when the board is DISARMED
2) blink rapidly 5 times for stick calibration of the Gyro
3) blink rapidly for stick calibration of the ACC
4) blink during initial power up then go off
5) blink slowly if a problem is detected on start-up or code error ; or THRO not below MINTHROTTLE
6) blinks once to indicate the CPU compute's a leveling correction
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Old Apr 09, 2011, 06:58 AM
gtx
Nike - Just Regret it!
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a simple q, what are all the open soldering points in the front for ?

5v, sda, gnd, 4v5, an, blk, gnd, vcc, rci,txi, and so on..

if i would want barometer and compass i have to buy it separately ? where is a good source of these.
think i found a local distributor of both BMP085 and HMC5843, some soldering-schematic ? and, is it only to add the #Define in the code to make them work ?
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Last edited by gtx; Apr 09, 2011 at 09:21 AM.
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Old Apr 09, 2011, 09:21 PM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtx View Post
a simple q, what are all the open soldering points in the front for ?

5v, sda, gnd, 4v5, an, blk, gnd, vcc, rci,txi, and so on..

if i would want barometer and compass i have to buy it separately ? where is a good source of these.
think i found a local distributor of both BMP085 and HMC5843, some soldering-schematic ? and, is it only to add the #Define in the code to make them work ?
Yes the duplicate set of I2C lines and Vcc options allows you to mount additional sensors on the board and solder them above or below the board as you like, including the FreeFlightIMU or the FreeIMU, the Bosch BARO BMP085, the Bosch BMA020 or BMA180. Each sensors has it's own specs sheet. The 4v5 line is specific to clone WiiMP+ which are sensitive to over voltage from BEcs which output 5.3v - this line handles the auto reset function of a WiiMP+ where as the 5v line is for Vh on a an LLC. I have order a HMC5843 to try it and will publish a photo when I have it mounted - Airmail to AU takes 2 weeks so hpefully it will come this week. The solder pads allow you to activate the onboard 2k2 pullups to the 3v3 bus if required.
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Old Apr 09, 2011, 10:22 PM
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What is a VH on a LLC? I'm not hip with the techno speak yet.
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Old Apr 10, 2011, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyingdogfilms View Post
What is a VH on a LLC? I'm not hip with the techno speak yet.
LLC's are used to run mixed voltage I2C devices - in our case with a 5v CPU and a 3v3 sensor like a BMA085 mixing with a 5v MP+ - then Vh is the 5v line.
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Old Apr 10, 2011, 01:43 PM
gtx
Nike - Just Regret it!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlouetteIII View Post
I have order a HMC5843 to try it and will publish a photo when I have it mounted - Airmail to AU takes 2 weeks so hpefully it will come this week. The solder pads allow you to activate the onboard 2k2 pullups to the 3v3 bus if required.
but it has been tested ? sounds on you its never been tested ?

if you add both the compass and barometer, it will be more stable, right ?
only to Define the modules and out and fly ?
but one thing, the barometer, it cant be places inside, as in my case, a CD-case? or some food-box, cuz then it cant feel the PSI difference ?
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Old Apr 10, 2011, 04:53 PM
Begin with end in mind...
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Eagle Lake, Minnesota
Joined Apr 2003
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I have asked this question in an email to MultiwiiCopter, I thought I would ask here as well for reference. In the quote below from the site, I am a bit unclear about what is being said.

In addition to this quote, I also read that it is recommended that only one BEC from the ESC's are to be connected for a power source. I have paralelled my esc's in the past with my KK boards as this is the recommended. I want to follow the right path here as I have not had a good experience in the past with wii based controls.

If infact the best bet is to power the board with an external BEC I have a pile of higher priced Castle Creation BEC's laying around waiting for a home. What is the best way to implement the BEC power...

I guess there are more questions than I thought


Quote from site:

"For Aerial Photography do not use an ESC to power the Vcc line. Use a seprate independant switching BEC and solder the Vcc and GND lines to the board. Select 5v. Note the MCP1825S has a maximum Vcc of 6v".


Thanks,

Mike
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Old Apr 10, 2011, 05:31 PM
gtx
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+1 on you power,

i have a TURNIGY 5-7.5A (8~42v) HV UBEC for Lipoly here witch i want to power the board with, and the text for the soldering-joints are a little confusing, where should i connect them ?

and as ive read about the code to enable or disable pulllups , whats the deal witch that ?

sorry if it might seem totally obvious but i cant get it in my head =)
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Old Apr 11, 2011, 04:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtx View Post
but it has been tested ? sounds on you its never been tested ?

if you add both the compass and barometer, it will be more stable, right ?
only to Define the modules and out and fly ?
but one thing, the barometer, it cant be places inside, as in my case, a CD-case? or some food-box, cuz then it cant feel the PSI difference ?
@GTX - A lot of peple are concerned about stability before they fly their first maiden - actually it's very easy - certainly easier than flying a helicopter - by far. The biggest feature of multicopters is that they are natural stable - not naturaly unstable like a heli. Stability comes from the LEVEL mode - The baro has a 2m tolerance by it's specification from Bosch and it's a pressure based instrument which are subject to barometric errors - it's not a Radar Altimeter.

Barometric placement of a static sensor requires that it is placed in an area free of turbulent airflow. So far I have not read any report from any pilot on the Wii thread to say the BARO was a good investment

It has to be combined with the Z axis of the ACC - Ciskje was working on this with Alex last I heard. So yes the software is running for BARO but it's not exiting! Not like the new LEVELmode in 1.7. Make sure you have an ACC - you will love it.

The ACC LEVEL mode will give you MikroKopter MK style flying at 1/10 th the price.
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Old Apr 11, 2011, 05:03 AM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by power View Post
I have asked this question in an email to MultiwiiCopter, I thought I would ask here as well for reference. In the quote below from the site, I am a bit unclear about what is being said.

In addition to this quote, I also read that it is recommended that only one BEC from the ESC's are to be connected for a power source. I have paralelled my esc's in the past with my KK boards as this is the recommended. I want to follow the right path here as I have not had a good experience in the past with wii based controls.

If infact the best bet is to power the board with an external BEC I have a pile of higher priced Castle Creation BEC's laying around waiting for a home. What is the best way to implement the BEC power...

I guess there are more questions than I thought


Quote from site:

"For Aerial Photography do not use an ESC to power the Vcc line. Use a seprate independant switching BEC and solder the Vcc and GND lines to the board. Select 5v. Note the MCP1825S has a maximum Vcc of 6v".


Thanks,

Mike

@ Power - Mike - non Opto ESCs are for single engine (joy) flight Ops and have a basic linear built in BEC in most cases - even in single engine planes I run a separate UBEC - when four linear ESC are connected in parallel - then one always runs hotter because it's at a slightly higher voltage than the other three. Put your hand on them next time - one will always be hotter - After doing the calibration of ESCs and the maiden to check its all 100%, then remove the red wire on three of them or better still use a switch UBEC if you are flying an expensive Camera worth more than the copter itself. For multiEngined AP Ops it's better to run a dedicated UBEC from a 2S LiPo (as expensive RC AP Helis do) to give power to the CPU, the Rx is 5v - Vcc means the supply line.

Ultimately multicopters have no wings and engine failure on quads and tricopters means it will exit the flight envelope - a falling brick - not good for DSLR cameras - so if a single wire connection to the escs (which are the wings/the flight controls/the engines - the works) is not 100% you have a problem in the major category - so after a maiden you can choose to rely on your push-on connectors or just solder the white and black lines directly to the board esc pins. It's the next level for a fly-by-wire aircraft - not to use plugs and have a separate reliable power supply to Vcc. This is the main reason to fly Y6 or HEX because these both offer full engine redundancy from either a ESC failure or a prop/engine failure. the other plus is the Y6 has the same FOV (Field of view) of 120 degress between the booms.

Probably the biggest single best thing you can do for an AP TriCopter(I know you make some nice Tricopters) after you install a 3300uF cap at C1 (for the power surges of the tailservo when the LiPo is low) is run a Quanum telemetry monitor - This device will tell you when your first LiPo Cell (individual) is low and prevent an unexpected ESC shut down.
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Old Apr 11, 2011, 05:23 AM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtx View Post
+1 on you power,

i have a TURNIGY 5-7.5A (8~42v) HV UBEC for Lipoly here witch i want to power the board with, and the text for the soldering-joints are a little confusing, where should i connect them ?

and as ive read about the code to enable or disable pulllups , whats the deal witch that ?

sorry if it might seem totally obvious but i cant get it in my head =)
That UBEC is a little too heavy for most Copters - fine on a large copter - I use these
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...TR-UBEC-3A.jpg

Solder the pins closed for 5v. Connect/solder the output to the BEC points marked on the PARIS v3.0 and disconnect all the red wires from your ESC after the maiden (by maiden I mean low hover test flight to check the ESCs are calibrated and start together) This allows the ESC to perform their main function - engine/stability control - and leaves the UBEC to do it's main job - reduce a 2S LiPo 7.4 to 5v - which it can easily and reliable do - regarless of the situation with the main LiPo. The main LiPo should be monitored by a Quanum telemetry unit

Pull ups - If you are running a WiiMP and a Nunchuk - then you don't need to know anything about pull-ups under 1.7p,1.7p2 or 1.7p3 - the default is all set correctly.

If you want to go advanced and run mixed voltages and sensors - like a BARO BMA085 or BMA180(3v3 device), with a MP+(5v or 3v3 device) on a 5v ProMini board - then the pull up pad on the PARIS v3.0 need to be solder closed. This is because the I2C lines will be too high for the BARO or BMA180 which both have a 3.8v limit on their I2C data lines. When you buy an advance sensor - study the spec sheet that is supplied with that sensor. if they specify 3v3 then it's not enough to just connect Vcc to 3v3 - the SDA and SCL lines need to be pulled-up (to positive 3v3) to keep them safe.
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Last edited by AlouetteIII; Apr 11, 2011 at 05:33 AM. Reason: photo added
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Old Apr 11, 2011, 06:19 AM
Begin with end in mind...
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Eagle Lake, Minnesota
Joined Apr 2003
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Thanks for the explanations, this is going to be a valuable thread for me.


One more quick question...you say to add the 3300uF cap at C1 for surges from the servo when power gets low. If I choose not to use a 2s lipo for power and use the 3s flight pack, will the surges still be an issue? Meaning, would I still benefit by adding the Cap?

Thanks again,


Mike
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Old Apr 11, 2011, 07:17 AM
Explore the Unknown
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Berlin Center, Ohio
Joined Oct 2010
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Code ?

This might be silly, What does the "bis" and "ter" stand for, in the prerelease versions of 1.7, prebis and preter?

Thx
Tom
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Old Apr 11, 2011, 08:29 AM
AlouetteIII's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by power View Post
Thanks for the explanations, this is going to be a valuable thread for me.


One more quick question...you say to add the 3300uF cap at C1 for surges from the servo when power gets low. If I choose not to use a 2s lipo for power and use the 3s flight pack, will the surges still be an issue? Meaning, would I still benefit by adding the Cap?

Thanks again,


Mike
ESC-piggy-back-BECs and dedicated UBECs already come with small electrolytic caps to do a similar job for the FETS in the ESC - by adding a 3300uF 10v to a 5v line you are sending an extra $1 and ensuring the Rx and the CPU are NOT going to see brown outs - your copter investment went from $400 to $401. If you choose to go with one BEC; or leave all four wired (not recommended) it will still have the same benefit. If you have ever seen just how hard the Wii will work the tail servo which handles the full gyroscopic forces of the motor/prop combo - then you will likely be adding a decent sized Cap to C1 on your PARIS board.
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