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Old Jun 03, 2011, 11:38 PM
a.k.a Maltone
Australia, NSW, Goulburn
Joined Jan 2005
6,866 Posts
Diagonal Struts...

These very distinctive struts replace wire rigging on the DXI - I guess they work in compression as well as tension and take flying AND landing stresses.

On the model, they are made from 1/16 steel wire fitted into holes in lower wing and the upper fuselage. The wire was cleaned and roughened up with a coarse file before glueing two grooved strips of 3/16 balsa each side.

The balsa was grooved with my little Dremel router but a bit of work with a knife works OK too! The wood was attached using med CA and clamped tightly to the wire until cured. All the struts were clamped together and shaped to profile then edges were rounded. The struts will be stained, varnished and have many bands of fabric wrapped around later.

Next - the top wing/ailerons etc......

Pat
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Old Jun 04, 2011, 12:47 AM
Fugative Pom
ozybard's Avatar
Queanbeyan, NSW,Australia
Joined Jul 2009
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Why didn't I think of that???

Quote:
The TE was sanded using a length of 1/16 wire as a gauge angainst the balsa. A strip of masking tape over the ribs indicates when the sanding is about to go too far. The remainder of the frames were rough sanded - a final sanding will be done prior to covering.
sheesh! I never thought of doing that. Will put away in the great ideas file....now if I can just remember where I put it...................
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Old Jun 04, 2011, 02:36 AM
What's 3D?
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Australia, WA, Ellenbrook
Joined Feb 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozybard View Post
sheesh! I never thought of doing that. Will put away in the great ideas file....now if I can just remember where I put it...................
Same same, great tip cheers Pat. also could you fill me in on how you drill your music wire axles for the split pin, that stuff is bloody hard, i even had a crack at it with a cobalt bit and it didn't want to know about it!

Cheers
Craig
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Old Jun 04, 2011, 02:50 AM
a.k.a Maltone
Australia, NSW, Goulburn
Joined Jan 2005
6,866 Posts
Craig - I didn't explain very well The brass tube stub axle is drilled for the split pin (easy) and is soldered to the steel axle which has been cut about 1/2" shorter than normal. I tin the axle end first and wipe the excess solder off with a rag, then flux the inside of the tube (which already has the inner washer soldered to it) and slide the tube over the steel axle leaving about 1/4" brass tube extending past the axle end. The tube is then 'sweated' on - just heated until the solder inside fastens it to the axle. The hole is then drilled in the end part of tube.....

Easier to do than describe - I should have taken some pictures! - I'll take a wheel off and photograph it!
Pat
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Old Jun 04, 2011, 03:02 AM
a.k.a Maltone
Australia, NSW, Goulburn
Joined Jan 2005
6,866 Posts
Split pin wheel retainer..

Here is a better picture of the method of securing the wheel with a split pin. The brass tube is soldered to the steel axle and is about 6mm longer. The hole for the split pin is drilled across just past the steel axle end.

The inner washer is soldered to tube to prevent the elastic cord 'bungee' from fouling the wheel - the cord will be wrapped around the fixed leg part and the over the brass axle tube.

Pat
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Last edited by Pat Lynch; Jun 04, 2011 at 05:24 AM.
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Old Jun 04, 2011, 06:04 AM
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Perth WA
Joined Feb 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozybard View Post
sheesh! I never thought of doing that. Will put away in the great ideas file....now if I can just remember where I put it...................
You took the words right out of my mouth Really is a fantastic tip.

You're making great progress Maltone - looks like a very nice model. Hope the MS isn't feeling too neglected though. You're so close with that one!
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Old Jun 05, 2011, 12:35 AM
a.k.a Maltone
Australia, NSW, Goulburn
Joined Jan 2005
6,866 Posts
Ailerons Done....

For those interested - there were two DXIs built, one having a varnished fuselage, tapered (typical Albatros) ailerons and a two bladed prop. The second prototype had a mauve and green fuselage, straight and balanced ailerons four blade prop. I am building the mauve/4 blade/balanced aileron version. This meant modifying Pete's plan just a little.

The new ailerons used all the supplied parts plus some new tip laminated from two layers of 3mm balsa with grain at right-angles. TLAR given the scant info available.

With the ailerons done, the top CS sheeted and everything rough-sanded, I ducked outside in the winter sun and took some pictures. These may have to suffice as the 'bare bones' airframe shots Peter puts in his articles!

The 4 blade prop is an old Vintage1 design but is 2" too small! I'll finish it and make a separate spinner for some scale photos. A 15/16" two blade will be OK for flying. There is also a big spinner to make.....

Total weight as per pictures is about 2 lb - no electronics or covering. 4lb may still be possible.......

Pat
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Old Jun 05, 2011, 03:36 AM
a.k.a Maltone
Australia, NSW, Goulburn
Joined Jan 2005
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Now you see it - now you dont!

After photographing the naked airframe for the last time, it took a mere 30 minutes to tidy the bench and disassemble the DXI. After just over two weeks of building, the hard bits can now commence.

Pat (still dreaming about lozenges)
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Old Jun 05, 2011, 09:39 AM
Pencil grip
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Olympia, WA
Joined Feb 2008
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Pat this is easily the cutest subject you've modeled. The four blade prop is icing on the cake. Will be very curious to see her covered and dolled up.

Matt

PS: I'm 3/4 of a year into my WACO 9 prototype build, so I also have time envy. Two WEEKS...sheesh!
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Old Jun 05, 2011, 03:58 PM
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Melbourne, Australia
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Pat, if you need to get rid of that 4 blader so you can get a scale one on the model, I have a use for it now since Vint isn't trading currently.

Hugh
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Old Jun 05, 2011, 05:18 PM
a.k.a Maltone
Australia, NSW, Goulburn
Joined Jan 2005
6,866 Posts
Hugh - Vint posted most of his prop designs here on rcgroups a few years ago - I guess any laser cutter would make one for you as long as it wasn't sold as a 'propeller' kit with the consequent risks

Covering - ah yes. As a start I've purchased a roll each of dull pink and pale mauve Lightex film ......... But lots to do first

Pat
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Old Jun 05, 2011, 08:51 PM
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Australia, WA, Ellenbrook
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thanks for the rundown on your axle setup Pat, explains it well, ya seriously had me thinking that you had perfected some way of drilling music wire without heating it and losing its temper before
she is looking great all framed up, it is an odd wing setup when you look at it all together!

Cheers
Craig
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Old Jun 05, 2011, 09:10 PM
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Melbourne, Australia
Joined Mar 2009
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Quote:
I guess any laser cutter would make one for you as long as it wasn't sold as a 'propeller' kit with the consequent risks
Bu&&er the lazer cutter! They didn't have Lazer Cutters in 1916! I'll be doing mine by hand thankyou very much Might have trouble with the resorcenol glue they used for the laminating though... might have to cheat and use epoxy or phenolic resin.

Hugh
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Old Jun 05, 2011, 11:28 PM
a.k.a Maltone
Australia, NSW, Goulburn
Joined Jan 2005
6,866 Posts
Tail Fairing...

The DXI has a typical Albatros rear end. The fuselage tapers to flat surfaces that blend into the tailplane with the elevator cables entering on top of, and below the fuselage.

The fairing was made from a piece of 1/2" soft sheet balsa and the underside shaped to fit the curved fuelage upper edges. It was then cut across at the rudder post and front part split down the middle to mount each side of the fin.

Using the fin as a guide, these two blocks were permenantly glued to the fuselage but NOT the fin. After removing the fin, the rear block was tacked in place with four spots of medium CA. All the blocks were then cut and sanded to match the fuselage top and side curves. When the profiles were correct, the top surface was sanded to match the top compound curves of the fuselage.

The elevator/H stab was dry fitted complete with elevator horns and holes marked on the upper and lower fuselage surfaces for short lengths of nylon tube for the elevator cables. These cables have a straightforward run through to the front and can be installed later.

Now the rear fairing section can be removed and the wire rudder hinge, internal horn soldered to it, and a pushrod installed before fixing the fairing permanently.

Pat
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Old Jun 06, 2011, 11:14 PM
a.k.a Maltone
Australia, NSW, Goulburn
Joined Jan 2005
6,866 Posts
Rudder Linkage..

Before the rear deck part can be glued, the brass horn for the internal rudder pushrod was made and soldered to the 14swg lower hinge wire. The free end will be epoxied into the rudder later..

The pushrod is 4mm CF tube with 3mm CF tube in each end with 2-56 wire in each end of that!

Pat
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Last edited by Pat Lynch; Jun 09, 2011 at 11:09 PM.
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