HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old May 23, 2011, 09:19 AM
Registered User
Norfolk, England
Joined Sep 2001
7,758 Posts
I never use a hammer for wire bending. A good pair of pliers is fine up to 14 swg, but for anything bigger I use a vice to hold the wire and a big lump of hardwood - with a bit of weight behind it, to make the bend. I find it avoids those large radius bends it's all too easy to get.
I do as Pat mentioned, start from the middle, bending one side, then the other, making sure the mark on the wire is always used to aid even bending - bend one side with the mark hard against the vice, turn the wire over and repeat the process.

Pete
PETERRAKE is online now Find More Posts by PETERRAKE
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old May 23, 2011, 11:24 AM
Neophyte hacker
portablevcb's Avatar
Albuquerque, NM USA
Joined Sep 2003
15,835 Posts
And I seem to be the one that 'cheats'

For the small stuff (14ga and smaller) I just use pliers as well.

For larger I use a (cheap) small arbor press. I machined the nose of the press to a 'point' (actually about 1/8" radius). Put the wire across one of the 'notches' in the table, center my mark, and pull on handle. Match to drawing to get correct. Much easier than hammering or leaning on a board.

Before using the press I always had problems with keeping all of the bends straight (part would not lay flat).

And, when you get to 3/16" wire, the hammer and vise are not quite enough either. Well, I guess if I got out my 5lb sledge hammer it might work

charlie
portablevcb is offline Find More Posts by portablevcb
Reply With Quote
Old May 23, 2011, 01:43 PM
What's 3D?
trumps's Avatar
Australia, WA, Ellenbrook
Joined Feb 2008
3,316 Posts
with the smaller stuff i have most success with one of those K+S benders, the only larger wire i have bent was for the Biff and luckily it was a simple bend at one end so the vise and the hndle of the k+s jobbie with the wire run through the hole and used as a lever did just nicely
trumps is offline Find More Posts by trumps
Reply With Quote
Old May 23, 2011, 04:33 PM
Registered User
Joined May 2009
600 Posts
Charlie,
I've got a small arbor press too and had that very same idea. The problem is I can't machine the point or the notches. I would have to have that done at a machine shop. Can't think that it would be too expensive, but you know how it is, some ideas work out better between your ears than in practice.
Would a pic of your setup be asking too much?

David
cd_webb is offline Find More Posts by cd_webb
Reply With Quote
Old May 23, 2011, 04:36 PM
AMA 937634
United States, AK, Anchorage
Joined Jan 2010
1,620 Posts
Do the K&S benders make sharp bends or do they round them?

I use linemen's pliers but start at one end and work my way through a piece but I have a hard time getting the piece to lay flat after I'm done so I'm looking for a better way.

-Mike
Stone1295 is online now Find More Posts by Stone1295
Reply With Quote
Old May 23, 2011, 10:13 PM
What's 3D?
trumps's Avatar
Australia, WA, Ellenbrook
Joined Feb 2008
3,316 Posts
The K&S jobbies still round them a bit due to the bend being formed around a pin of about 3/16 dia as against a sharp edge, i haven't found it to be excessive though. they wont help too much with alignment and only a good eyeballing or practice will help with that.
trumps is offline Find More Posts by trumps
Reply With Quote
Old May 24, 2011, 12:57 AM
a.k.a Maltone
Pat Lynch's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Goulburn
Joined Jan 2005
6,924 Posts
Irrespective of OHS, dubious metalworking techniques etc - my 1/8 steel UC wire is cut, bent, bound and soldered The parts were screwed to the fuselage mounting plates and all ends finished exactly where they should be After a thorough cleaning with alcohol, they were bound with copper wire stripped from old electrical cable and soldered using high-silver content soft solder using my trusty Weller 80Watt iron.

The axle is bound and soldered to the spreader bar and the springy ends will be wrapped in elastic 'bungee' cord. Later - after fairings etc are added.

A start was made on the laminated outlines for the tail parts - lots of 1/4" wide strip (I used 5 laminations of 2mm stock) were soaked in water and bent easily around a bunch a pins over the plan. When they are dry, I'll use Superphatic glue to stick em together it will give a little more time than CA but is still fast (20 minutes) and sandable. Other people use templates for laminating but my lazy way works for me........

Pat
Pat Lynch is online now Find More Posts by Pat Lynch
RCG Plus Member
Latest blog entry: A Small Diversion From Annie
Reply With Quote
Old May 24, 2011, 04:15 AM
Registered User
Macarthur Region of Southwest Sydney
Joined Feb 2009
103 Posts
Pat your builds are always great reading & this one looks to be no different. Can I ask you where you source the silver solder you use to such good effect? My enquiries were mostly met with a flat denial that such material exists, sometimes offering silver brazing rod, occasionally (only) I was offered silver soft solder for an arm and a leg with a couple of eyeballs thrown in! Never been able to find it at an affordable price. Dick
evvo is offline Find More Posts by evvo
Reply With Quote
Old May 24, 2011, 07:24 AM
a.k.a Maltone
Pat Lynch's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Goulburn
Joined Jan 2005
6,924 Posts
Dick - silver bearing solder should be available in just about any hardware store! My last lot came from Bunnings in Fyshwick, in ACT.
The brand is BERNZOMATIC - made in the USA. It uses water based flux and is lead free.

Cheers - Pat
Pat Lynch is online now Find More Posts by Pat Lynch
RCG Plus Member
Latest blog entry: A Small Diversion From Annie
Reply With Quote
Old May 24, 2011, 07:33 AM
Registered User
Macarthur Region of Southwest Sydney
Joined Feb 2009
103 Posts
Thanks Pat I'll try that locally. In my ignorance I was expecting it to only be available at industrial suppliers, so that was where I directed my inquiries. To say the least they were not a lot of help! Regards, Dick
evvo is offline Find More Posts by evvo
Reply With Quote
Old May 24, 2011, 08:16 AM
Übung macht den Meister..
Deuce's Avatar
United States, OR, Fairview
Joined Jul 2006
3,026 Posts
From what I understand, silver bearing solder contains some amount of silver, but it is not the same as silver solder. Hence the term "soft." I do believe silver solder is also referred to as "hard" solder.

While silver solder is stronger and is often called out on plans for LG use, I doubt one should worry about that difference after wrapping with wire. As well, for most (all?) of Pete's designs, anything that would stress the wrapped and soldered joint to the point of failure would be rebuilding or trashing the model anyway.

James
Deuce is offline Find More Posts by Deuce
Reply With Quote
Old May 24, 2011, 09:21 AM
Neophyte hacker
portablevcb's Avatar
Albuquerque, NM USA
Joined Sep 2003
15,835 Posts
There is a bit of confusion on solder these days.

Old terminology was that 'solder' referred to lead-tin (50-50 or 25-75) soft solder such as that used by plumbers and electricians, also called 'soft' solder. There were/are two different kinds of flux, acid and rosin, with rosin used mainly in electronics and acid by plumbers.

'Silver solder' was a term used to describe 'brazing', a higher temp solder, and sometimes called 'hard' solder. Usually uses brass (Copper-Zinc) rods, but, can be done with any metal that melts at a lower temp than the joined metals. Silver solder was named such because silver was part of the brazing material.

Now days, plumbers are restricted from using lead in soldering water pipes so there have been other types of soft solder, mainly by adding some silver or other metals to the tin. So, now when someone says 'silver solder' it frequently refers to a soft solder.

And, if you add in all the jewelry soldering it gets even more confusing as they use silver wire for their work (expensive). Then there is also structural brazing where steel parts are joined with even higher temp materials.

charlie
portablevcb is offline Find More Posts by portablevcb
Reply With Quote
Old May 24, 2011, 11:25 AM
Pencil grip
hoffboy's Avatar
Olympia, WA
Joined Feb 2008
1,236 Posts
Stay Brite

Here's what I use for joining piano wire http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/e...y-Brite-8.aspx

So far no problems.
hoffboy is offline Find More Posts by hoffboy
Reply With Quote
Old May 24, 2011, 05:46 PM
a.k.a Maltone
Pat Lynch's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Goulburn
Joined Jan 2005
6,924 Posts
IIRC even silver bearing solder may need a little more heat - but my 80 watt large tip iron has had no problems with even 3/16 wire. The stuff I use uses a water-soluble flux which is great for cleaning up - just hot soapy water! The solder I choose to use is not flux cored.

Pat
Pat Lynch is online now Find More Posts by Pat Lynch
RCG Plus Member
Latest blog entry: A Small Diversion From Annie
Reply With Quote
Old May 24, 2011, 06:16 PM
Closed Account
Joined Mar 2011
478 Posts
Will this be a kit from Manzano ?
FLYBOB54 is offline Find More Posts by FLYBOB54
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Build Log Peter Rake 1/6 Scale Albatros DVa hammerd Scale Kit/Scratch Built 893 Dec 29, 2013 04:44 PM
Build Log Peter Rake 67" Bristol F2b build trumps Scale Kit/Scratch Built 97 Feb 29, 2012 09:16 AM
Discussion Peter Rake's Udet Flamingo ben199 Scale Kit/Scratch Built 139 Jun 05, 2011 06:04 AM
Build Log A Prototype Albatros DII by Peter Rake Pat Lynch Scale Kit/Scratch Built 426 Oct 31, 2010 06:02 PM