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Old Oct 15, 2001, 09:42 PM
Ex Jet Jock
FullScalePilot's Avatar
Texas
Joined Sep 2001
30 Posts
How to make Kyosho's Lear fly faster without spending a dime

If any anyone is interested in getting 30% more power out of Kyosho's twin EDF lear without spending a dime post here and ill tell how. Its a little involved and i really don't want to type it all out if no one is interested. I have applied this mod as well as 2 other pilots i know and it works really well!!!!



Scale Pilot

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Old Oct 16, 2001, 01:02 AM
It wasn't me...
DanSavage's Avatar
Trabuco Canyon, CA
Joined Nov 2000
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Re: How to make Kyosho's Lear fly faster without spending a dime

Quote:
Originally posted by FullScalePilot
If any anyone is interested in getting 30% more power out of Kyosho's twin EDF lear without spending a dime post here and ill tell how. Its a little involved and i really don't want to type it all out if no one is interested. I have applied this mod as well as 2 other pilots i know and it works really well!!!!
I'm interested. Is this mod applicable to other EDF's or just to the Kyosho flavor?

TIA,

Dan
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Old Oct 16, 2001, 08:19 AM
Speed Demon
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Antioch,CA,USA
Joined Dec 1999
12,280 Posts
I'd also like to see what you're doing here. Please do post your experiance.
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Old Oct 16, 2001, 01:26 PM
Ex Jet Jock
FullScalePilot's Avatar
Texas
Joined Sep 2001
30 Posts
Ok

Ok, Here's the skinny...

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
First the nasales (engine pods) MUST have a VERY clean air path. On mine there was a step down from the fan units to the wall of the nasales. Also if you put the front and rear caps on the nasales the rear cap leaves a 1/8 inch gap in the inside of the nasales which catches a fair amout of thrust. At full throttle the thrust causes this gap to flare to almost 1/4 inch making the exit 1/2 inch smaller. In addition to catching thrust when the thrust hits the back end of that gap it deflects the thrust back into the nasales and causes major turbulance in what little clean thrust you have comming out. To fix this take 4, 20 oz styrofoam cups (2 for each nasales) split them in 2 make 1 half 1 inch larger then the other and cut the bottom off. Line the inside of the nasales with the 2 larger halves (You will have to trim the cups to get them to line up properly)line the cup halves from the fan unit to the edge of the rear nasale cap (DO NOT Let the cup stick out past the cap) this will cause thrust deflection also (not alot but it will). Tape all seems with mylar tape and use 3/8" white electrical tape around where the cup hits the rear nasale cap.

Second cover the wires from the motor going into the fuse with thin plastic (the same type plastic the nasale cap is made of) shape it into a small air foil.

And last make the motor wires going to the ESC as short as possible.

The EDF unit design from Kyosho is VERY POOR. By doing this I gained 30% more power on a totally stock bird. It flies great now with 8 sub C cells at 2400 mah.

If anyone has questions or comments or suggestions PLEASE let me know...

Please post here and let me know how this works for you, so far 2 other pilots have done this mod with dramitic results. Even if it doesn't work for you please let me know

Hope this helps someone it did me!!

Thanks



ScalePilot


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Old Oct 16, 2001, 02:06 PM
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Daren's Avatar
Los Alamos, NM, USofA
Joined Nov 2000
3,099 Posts
Scale:
All of it sounds like good advice; basically cleaning up the airflow as much as possible. What I am curious about is your method of measurements.

How did you determine there was a 30% increase in performance? Was this based upon RPM, thrust, etc.? Do you have any before and after figures?

Thanks,
Daren
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Old Oct 16, 2001, 02:23 PM
Ex Jet Jock
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Texas
Joined Sep 2001
30 Posts
Measurement

I based it on throttle,

It now ROG into a 20 deg rotation at a little more then 2/3 thottle
instead of full throttle. I also went from 4 min flights to well over 5 min flights becouse of not having to have full throttle all the time


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Old Oct 16, 2001, 05:53 PM
17 years on RCG!
United States, NV, Las Vegas
Joined Dec 1996
3,097 Posts
Thanks for the tips FullScale!

Ive got 4 LearJets waiting - one I planned to build perfectly stock just to see how it would fly, the latters all would share mods like retracts, brushless motors, etc.

At any rate, the stock one will GREATLY benefit from the above. Thanks again! Im curious - since not all 20 oz cups are created equal, whos cups did you use? Where do I find em?

Also, are you flying on one 8 cell 2400 pack, or are you using two 8 cell 2400 packs, one pack per motor? What ESCs are you using? Are you using 2 ESCs or just one?

And lastly, let me know on my trade off for the JETI 70 amp ESC - this will be an ESC for one of the brushless powered Lears

Jason
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Old Oct 16, 2001, 06:39 PM
Ex Jet Jock
FullScalePilot's Avatar
Texas
Joined Sep 2001
30 Posts
The cups are made by WinCup sque number 71290 02016 bought at Target $1.59 for 21 of them. The front of the package says the following "StyroCup COOL Quenchers 20 ounce". If you cant find them at Target, WinCup's phone number is 1.800.292.CUPS



I Use the following:

2 packs 8 Sanyo sub c matched cells at 2400 mah

2 Jeti JES 350 ESC

1 each per motor (stock AP29L)
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Old Oct 16, 2001, 07:56 PM
Ex Jet Jock
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Texas
Joined Sep 2001
30 Posts
Jason

Keep this in mind .

If you plan to put more then 8 cells in your bird make sure you reinforce your wings with glass tape or like. To fully understand what I'm talking about. Lift the plane by the wing tips with the 9 or 10 cell packs installed and watch how much the wings bow. Without reinforcement in ANY high G maneuver WILL fold at least 1 if not both wings.

Good luck


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Old Oct 18, 2001, 11:15 AM
Electric Airplane Junkie
bhchan's Avatar
San Mateo, Ca , USA
Joined Jun 2000
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gee, I thought you said it would cost a dime, now I have to buy foam cup at Target....

I flew mine with almost-stock everything, I taped the rear cap with tape on the inside. I have 14 x2000 running series motors. It will loop from level flight. The only problem I have(had) was the main gear in the wrong place. You have to move the main wheel 1 inch back to get any pressure on the front gear. The way it was designed will have the plane sitting on the main gear and the lower fin on the back.
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Old Oct 18, 2001, 12:07 PM
Ex Jet Jock
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Texas
Joined Sep 2001
30 Posts
Brian

Funny guy

However the cups are about $0.02 each you need 4 so
4x2=8 last time i cheched a dime was $0.10 heheheheheeheh
hehehehehehehehehehehe

Hope the mad helps you

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Old Oct 18, 2001, 12:32 PM
Electric Airplane Junkie
bhchan's Avatar
San Mateo, Ca , USA
Joined Jun 2000
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Re: Brian

Quote:
Originally posted by FullScalePilot
Funny guy

However the cups are about $0.02 each you need 4 so
4x2=8 last time i cheched a dime was $0.10

Scale Pilot
BUTBUTBUTBUT I can't just buy 4 So don't glue the cup to the inside, just tape?

I always check where I am heading , not just SIX!!
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