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Old Oct 22, 2012, 10:56 PM
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What about the carb bolts? I wonder if those could back out?
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 11:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by going4speed View Post
What about the carb bolts? I wonder if those could back out?


I would say any bolt on the engine is capable of backing out without locktite.

we both had already loctited our carb bolts but for some reason never thought about doing the backing plate bolts.
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 10:45 AM
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Here is how I have everything laid out before securing everything in place. How does it look?





Now since the report of the backing plate bolts backing out I'm going to check those. Thanks!
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 11:13 PM
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looks great!
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 11:51 PM
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[QUOTE=RC_Feen;23078258]Here is how I have everything laid out before securing everything in place. How does it look?

[QUOTE]


I think all the components look spot on for a maiden!

you're gonna love it!
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 08:17 AM
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[QUOTE=racerman27410;23084643][QUOTE=RC_Feen;23078258]Here is how I have everything laid out before securing everything in place. How does it look?

Quote:


I think all the components look spot on for a maiden!

you're gonna love it!

Thanks! I'm debating if I should pull the engine off tonight and double check all the bolts and re-loctite or just fire it up tomorrow then check everything after running it up and setting the needles.
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by RC_Feen View Post


Thanks! I'm debating if I should pull the engine off tonight and double check all the bolts and re-loctite or just fire it up tomorrow then check everything after running it up and setting the needles.

I would go ahead and loctite everything.... its easy peace of mind knowing its been taken care of..... i used the red loctite for the carb bolts, backing plate bolts and muffler bolts since the engine case gets hot.

let the locktite setup overnight and you should be golden.
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by racerman27410 View Post
I would go ahead and loctite everything.... its easy peace of mind knowing its been taken care of..... i used the red loctite for the carb bolts, backing plate bolts and muffler bolts since the engine case gets hot.

let the locktite setup overnight and you should be golden.
I hear yeah! I could be doing this while I'm charging my Rx and ignition packs then I know it's been done and not another thing to be wondering about. I did use some blue loctite on the carb and choke arm screws since I had them on/off a few times. Nervous as hell as it is about maiden. First gasser and largest plane I've built I guess.
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 12:43 PM
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To those that posted above regarding prop sizes thanks. I will take off the 20-6 and try a 19-8 perhaps. No, I my plane is not walking around because I am nervous, or due to splines shot or control flutter I am using all new metal servo arms and new metal gear servos. Just seems like the plane likes to walk around on me jerk to and fro on its own if you will. Its not the balance, so I thought it was the prop maybe too big of a circle with the 20-6 causing some effect on the plane tracking. I will try a smaller prop 19 or 18.


Also, if I did not install a tunnel exhaust cannister or pipe, should I seal off the opening to the tunnel? I did not do it there was no reference in the?aerodynamic impacts due to air flow into and back out of the tunnel? Are you guys putting a plywood cover over the tunnel?
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 12:56 PM
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I have left my tunnel open. Not sure what others are doing.
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by brathanke View Post
I have left my tunnel open. Not sure what others are doing.
Is that what that small covered trim piece is for that comes with the kit? To cover the tunnel up front under the motor box? I noticed that piece the other day when I was going to the extra parts?
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 02:41 PM
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I left mine open and installed the vent piece. That way the hot air was getting pulled away from the cylinder an out of the plane.
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 03:59 PM
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I left mine open and installed the vent piece. That way the hot air was getting pulled away from the cylinder an out of the plane.
Thats good thinking makes sense I will either cover up the tunnel or if I leave it open will do what you did.
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by RC_Feen View Post
I hear yeah! I could be doing this while I'm charging my Rx and ignition packs then I know it's been done and not another thing to be wondering about. I did use some blue loctite on the carb and choke arm screws since I had them on/off a few times. Nervous as hell as it is about maiden. First gasser and largest plane I've built I guess.

I remember flying my 71" for the first time last year.... I've only been flying airplanes since June of 2011 (heli's since 06) ... in 4 months i went from foamys to 48" 3DHS buck and a half edge to my 71" gas slick in September of '11 (my birthday present to myself).... i was shakey as hell ...all i could think about was 1500 bucks in the air and i'm on the sticks! Luckily with gas engines comes long flight times ... i needed every bit of that 15 minutes in order to calm down enough to attempt landing LOL!

Just setup low rates and do your first couple of flights getting used to the plane and how it responds to the throttle.... there is quite a difference in how a gasser responds vs an electric engine.... more to do with momentum and how the power is delivered. Nothing to worry about, it just takes some time to get used to it.

if you have throttle curve on your radio you will definitely need to address it.
mine was at full throttle by midstick so i lowered the first two points on the curve.... you can play with it to get it where it feels right to you. Just above idle is enough to fly the plane so you will need some fine control down on the lower end when landing....IE too much throttle becuse of a small stick movement and the plane just flies on past

Do a bunch of landing approaches... my first couple of flights i just did circles and approaches/touch and goes. its amazing how floaty the slicks are... i'm sure you're going to love it. I have three of them now....a red one (with OSGT33 ) and a orange one setup exactly the same way with one NIB orange one just in case.

I find it easier to huck them down low knowing i have a backup ready to go and a backup for that backup! (too much is always better than not enough when it comes to slicks )
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 08:24 PM
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Culpeper, VA
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Originally Posted by hooliganpilot View Post
Thats good thinking makes sense I will either cover up the tunnel or if I leave it open will do what you did.

Is this the tunnel everyone is talking about:



racerman27410...thanks for the tips and support. I plan on setting up just low rates for now. I'm use to throttle curves but only when using them for a heli. Can you tell me what values you have at the five different points? That would be a good starting point for me. Tomorrow I plan on firing it up in the yard for the first time and set the low and high needles and idle using a tech. Once I have those set I may go to the field tomorrow afternoon or Friday. My son wants to be there for the maiden. I've went back through and added loctite to the 4 rear plate screws, 2 carb screws and the 4 front engine mounting screws. Do I need to add loctite to the 4 screws that are on the carb diaphragm? Other than that I'm just need to setup the low rates, expo and add my 24" remote receiver extension to move the satellite receiver back in the fuse tonight. Anything else I may have missed please let me know. Thanks again...
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