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Old Oct 07, 2012, 04:54 PM
fly low be happy
lb.man's Avatar
United States, CA, Shasta Lake
Joined Sep 2009
138 Posts
in my confusion, and a fellow club members i mixed my first tank at 50:1 it ran great, pulled really well, but got me thinking, if the normal mix is 30:1 why would I mix it with less oil? so i reread and reread the manual. my only problem so far is the timing, factory specs are for using a starter. After my engine is broken in i will start to play with the timing, and see if that helps. L8R
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 05:20 PM
Registered User
RC_Feen's Avatar
Culpeper, VA
Joined Oct 2005
687 Posts
Cowl

I cut out the cowl last night for the engine and exhaust. It fits over the cylinder head and exhaust but I have a hard time getting on and off. It looks like the cowl frame hits on the ignition module (mounted on the right side) and my pack for the ignition module (mounted on the left side). I have both the ignition module and pack mounted vertically. Do you have to mount the ignition module and pack horizontally to the motor box for them to clear the cowl frame? Some pic's of how you have your ignition module and packs mounted to the motor box would be great. Thanks!
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 09:26 PM
The Twisted Elf
lugnutz's Avatar
USA, NJ, Trenton
Joined Nov 2010
452 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by lb.man View Post
in my confusion, and a fellow club members i mixed my first tank at 50:1 it ran great, pulled really well, but got me thinking, if the normal mix is 30:1 why would I mix it with less oil? so i reread and reread the manual. my only problem so far is the timing, factory specs are for using a starter. After my engine is broken in i will start to play with the timing, and see if that helps. L8R
30:1 is not less oil its more,
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 09:42 PM
ProBro, 3D
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United States, FL, The Villages
Joined Jul 2008
946 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by lugnutz View Post
30:1 is not less oil its more,
+1,

I'd never break an engine in on 50:1, not enough oil, use 30:1. During break-in, the ring and cylinder wall need lube.
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 12:08 AM
3d NOOBular
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USA, UT, St George
Joined Aug 2010
7,635 Posts
agreed. 50:1 is asking for trouble. My motor is broken in already and I'm continuing to use 30:1 just because it is easy to mix that way.
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 07:19 AM
fly low be happy
lb.man's Avatar
United States, CA, Shasta Lake
Joined Sep 2009
138 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by gregory.da View Post
+1,

I'd never break an engine in on 50:1, not enough oil, use 30:1. During break-in, the ring and cylinder wall need lube.
+1, as i said in my confusion, when reading the manual me and a fellow club member where slightly confused by the manual. after about 1/2 tank did i realize my mistake, dumped fuel and remixed @25:1 first 3 flights down: and a lot more to go
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 09:03 PM
3DHS 'native'
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USA, TX, Spring
Joined Jan 2008
5,900 Posts
71" slick's in stock here at valleyviewrc.com
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 02:58 PM
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Joined Aug 2012
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I finished my balance last night on my DLE30 install. I went with two elevator servos, and I still had to make a battery plate behind the canopy hatch to ride my two batteries on. Even with that, I still had to add 2 1/4 oz lead segments to the tail to balance on the initial nose heavy setup. I am sure I will want to be more tail heavy after I fly, so I will have to add even more lead to the tail, since I can't really move anything else back further. The only thing I can do that I haven't is changed the aluminum spinner I have to carbon fiber, which will save 1.2 ounces on the nose to help a little bit. I am projecting to be right at 11 pounds, set up as they recommend, with the DLE30 and the additional servo on the elevator. I dont think 10# is acheivable, I added very little to the stock setup. I could have ditched one elevator servo, but then would have needed even more weight. I even eliminated the fiberglass elevator joiner crossbar since I was using two servos. Not sure how guys can get 10 pounds with this without taking short cuts.
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 04:36 PM
3DHS 'native'
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USA, TX, Spring
Joined Jan 2008
5,900 Posts
I set mine to balance at 155mm from the leading edge and when I flew-it it was tucking to the gear inverted...and hard....I have now set my balance point at 140mm but have yet to get it in the air..have yet to man up on that flight yet.
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 07:30 AM
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Joined Aug 2012
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I thought my manual said fly it at 155-160 mm for the initial flights, then move it back (more aft) further and I think it said a lot of guys go way back from 160. You are talking about moving the CG forward to 140MM sounds way out of the range? Now I am really puzzled.
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 07:38 AM
3DHS 'native'
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USA, TX, Spring
Joined Jan 2008
5,900 Posts
yea I need to call and see what they say. The plane in the air does not lie though. Trimmed for level flight half throttle flip over tuck to gear means tail heavy to me.

Agreed the manual does state 155-160mm.

There is also the possibility that I suck at flying.
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 07:54 AM
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kerwin50's Avatar
winston mo
Joined Oct 2006
7,460 Posts
where is your throttle servo
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 09:29 AM
3d NOOBular
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USA, UT, St George
Joined Aug 2010
7,635 Posts
I can tell you guys that I honestly never even checked the location of the CG on my 70" My experience from the 51 slick told me that as long as it is anywhere near being balance I will be able to fly it.

When I flew my 70" for the first time I did notice that it was quite nose heavy so I put in a battery tray right under that canopy latch. I also have a smoke pump at the very back of the canister tunnel. My bird weighed in a 10 pounds 11 oz. with this setup. I am not a spinner guy but I only have one elevator servo in the tail.

I know the 70" balances out a tad different than the 71" but I would still recommend ditching the extra weight in the tail and flying it as-is to see what happens.

As going4speed said, the plane in the air won't lie. I know it is scary putting this plane in the air for the first time and you want to be as prepared as possible for how it is going to fly but I think adding that extra weight in the tail is possibly not needed and a nose-heavy first flight is much more manageable than a tail heavy one. The Slick tolerates a wide range of CG so you need to just fly it and see how it feels before making any more drastic adjustments.
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 02:06 PM
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United States, NC, Greensboro
Joined Dec 2006
404 Posts
the 71" slick is very tolerant of CG..... I moved things around in mine until it flew like i wanted then checked the CG =142.5mm which is hands off upright with just a slight push on the elevator required when inverted.

IMO neutral/ slightly tail heavy is better than nose heavy as this bird will just fly on past you when landing. My first couple of flights i had to actually kill the engine on approach to get her to slow down.
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 03:26 PM
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RC_Feen's Avatar
Culpeper, VA
Joined Oct 2005
687 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by racerman27410 View Post
the 71" slick is very tolerant of CG..... I moved things around in mine until it flew like i wanted then checked the CG =142.5mm which is hands off upright with just a slight push on the elevator required when inverted.

IMO neutral/ slightly tail heavy is better than nose heavy as this bird will just fly on past you when landing. My first couple of flights i had to actually kill the engine on approach to get her to slow down.

142.5mm from the leading edge of the wing? I'm trying to finalize where I'm going to put everything and check the CG but not 100% were CG should be on the 71" gas. I'm planning on putting the Rx battery towards the rear past the plate where the Rx will go. Where is everyone mounting there ignition battery? Had it up front on the right side of the motor box but might move it to the rear with Rx battery. Want to get the plane completed this week. My oil should be in this week. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Last edited by RC_Feen; Oct 21, 2012 at 04:25 PM.
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