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Old Sep 20, 2012, 04:04 PM
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Culpeper, VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KTMRacr View Post
I ended up putting a mix on my throttle. "High" idle I use when on the ground and flying. Then a "Low" throttle for landing. After you get it all tuned in, set your low throttle so that wants to die (or just BARELY idle) when on the ground at zero throttle stick. It will stay running when in the air and moving. This will help you get the plane slowed down enough for landing.

This thing is quite a thrill to fly! Have fun with it!
Never used any mixes on my radio for my plane. I've read about people using mixes for doing KE but never understood what they where doing. Is there a link or something I can read-up on "mixes"? I'm using a DX7 Tx. Thanks!
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 10:12 PM
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Culpeper, VA
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Throttle linkage

Here is a picture of my throttle linkage. I happy how it turned out.





The only thing I'm a little bit concerned about is the connector I used on the carb throttle arm. I used a dubro safety lock kwik link 4-40. It locks in place but I thinking I should use a dubro HD ball link 4-40 like I used on the throttle servo arm side. If I'm questioning it I think I should change the link. What do you think? The only other concern is if I used the ball link on the throttle arm it might interfere with the choke arm. Please provide some feedback! Thanks!
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 10:21 PM
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The only thing I see is that the linkage looks like its touching the firewall?
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 10:39 PM
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Culpeper, VA
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Originally Posted by going4speed View Post
The only thing I see is that the linkage looks like its touching the firewall?
From the angle in the second pic it looks like it's touching the fire wall. If you look at the first pic there is plenty of room. I checked to see if the linkage touches the firewall when I moved the throttle servo linkage through the full range of travel from closed to fully open and it didn't touch. I'll double check it though. What do you think about the connector I used at the throttle arm? It "clicked" when I locked it in place but with this being my first gasser I'm not 100% sure how it will perform once the engine is fired up and I start flying and how the vibes from the engine will effect it. Like I said my other option is use a ball link, hex bolt and a nylon low profile nut. I might install the ball link on the throttle arm of the carb and just see how it interacts with the choke linkage. Last thing I want to happen is to have the two linkages get bound up with one another or have the connector fail at the throttle arm during flight.
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 10:55 PM
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I just did two z bends for both linkages at the carb. Much more room in there and less of a failure point to me. If your gut tells you its a problem then change it out so its one less thing to be in the back of your mind on the first flight.
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 11:00 PM
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Culpeper, VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by going4speed View Post
If your gut tells you its a problem then change it out so its one less thing to be in the back of your mind on the first flight.
Couldn't agree more!
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Old Sep 21, 2012, 08:17 AM
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winston mo
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Change it. Gasser can be hard on clevis. I've seen the pin break on the clevis before.
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Old Sep 21, 2012, 09:00 AM
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I used a Z bend on the choke and a ball end on the throttle. You are all right about it being real tight on space.
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Old Sep 21, 2012, 02:34 PM
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Culpeper, VA
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I have a clevis on the choke arm. What I'm going to have to do is change it to a z-bend connection and then use a ball-link on the throttle arm. For the z-bend, do I order the pliers and make my own or buy the wire already z-bend if they are available? Thanks again!
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Old Sep 21, 2012, 05:31 PM
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I bought the pliers and they were I think around $15. I then bought a 12" length of wire with the thread already on the end for the ball link. Mounted the ball link with the throttle on low, marked the other end at the carb with the throttle closed. Check where the z bend would be further down the wire and then made the final z bend. The only thing is you will have to remove the motor or the throttle arm on the carb to get it in the fuse.
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Old Sep 22, 2012, 12:44 AM
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Culpeper, VA
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Almost there for day 1 fire-up

Quote:
Originally Posted by kerwin50 View Post
Change it. Gasser can be hard on clevis. I've seen the pin break on the clevis before.
So here is my progress:





The one thing I did for the clevis safety pin at the carb was put a drop of CA on it to keep it secure. Is this acceptable for a 30cc gasser?



Will this be worry free or change it out for this?


Also when installing the LED for the remote kill switch should I put it on the side with the ignition switch? The power box spark switch plugs into the switch, ignition battery pack, powerbox spark switch and then the RX. There is a LED to let you know if the RX is good so I was thinking that I should put the LED on the ignition side where the switch is for the ignition. Sound right?
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Old Sep 22, 2012, 07:24 PM
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USA, UT, St George
Joined Aug 2010
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Guys I'm loving the 20x8 ProTek on my PTE 36cc.

3DHS 70" Slick new 20x8 protek prop :D (3 min 15 sec)
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Old Sep 22, 2012, 08:20 PM
Huckin around the Shire
Enterprise7's Avatar
USA, NH, Manchester
Joined Jun 2010
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I got about 10 flights over the last 2 days on my O.S. GT33. I am just floored with how nice this engine is. Very quiet and very linear throttle response. I know you have heard it before, but this is as close to electric as a gasser is probably every going to get.

For reference these are the other engine I own that I am comparing this to.

DA-120
DA-60
DLE-55
Mintor 38
Mintor 22
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Old Sep 22, 2012, 08:43 PM
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USA, TX, Spring
Joined Jan 2008
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Tuning the GT33 today. Cant seem to get a 1600 rpm idle. It will hold the idle but if you run up the engine and then go back to zero throttle at 1600 rpm it dies. Anyone have an idea?
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Old Sep 22, 2012, 08:56 PM
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United States, KY, Paducah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by going4speed View Post
Tuning the GT33 today. Cant seem to get a 1600 rpm idle. It will hold the idle but if you run up the engine and then go back to zero throttle at 1600 rpm it dies. Anyone have an idea?

Is there a specific reason you want a 1600 RPM idle? I'm just curious... Does it work OK at 1800 or even 2000 RPM?

My understanding is that if you go from full throttle to idle and it goes low (sags) then recovers to idle or dies then the low speed needle is too rich. Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong.
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