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Old Apr 25, 2012, 11:02 PM
ProBro, 3D
gregory.da's Avatar
United States, FL, The Villages
Joined Jul 2008
946 Posts
Venom, sounds like you don't like messing with the gas end of it. Why don't you sell or trade me your DLE and you can go e-power with your 71" Slick. I've got a Hacker A50-12L that will do the trick.

The only thing I don't like about DLE is the noise level. I wish the Slick had a tunnel built into it for a cannister pipe (edit, Racerman just informed me that it does have a tunnel for a cannister). Just wait until you try the DLE20, you will definately have hearing problems after running that engine, way too loud.
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Last edited by gregory.da; Apr 25, 2012 at 11:15 PM. Reason: cannister update
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 11:03 PM
3d NOOBular
3DNater's Avatar
USA, UT, St George
Joined Aug 2010
8,143 Posts
I would use my arm torquing with a socket wrench The lesson is... just make sure they are tight cuz they seem to want to work loose. Kerwin do you recommend using any blue loctite?
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 11:12 PM
Registered User
United States, MD, Glen Burnie
Joined Mar 2012
331 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by gregory.da View Post
Venom, sounds like you don't like messing with the gas end of it. Why don't you sell or trade me your DLE and you can go e-power with your 71" Slick. I've got a Hacker A50-12L that will do the trick.

The only thing I don't like about DLE is the noise level. I wish the Slick had a tunnel built into it for a cannister pipe. Just wait until you try the DLE20, you will definately have hearing problems after running that engine, way too loud.
well its my first gasser so im learning about it still and yea the dle 30 is very loud with the stock muffler
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 11:16 PM
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United States, NC, Greensboro
Joined Dec 2006
406 Posts
I use loctite on everything except the prop bolts. they wont come loose.

i dont use a torque wrench... just tighten them up nice and snug.... stop before you crush the wooden prop hub or strip the aluminum threads.

i've never had one come loose. but its still a good idea to preflight your aircraft (prop bolts,servo arm bolts/screws and linkages) just in case.
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 11:23 PM
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United States, MD, Glen Burnie
Joined Mar 2012
331 Posts
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Originally Posted by racerman27410 View Post
I use loctite on everything except the prop bolts. they wont come loose.

i dont use a torque wrench... just tighten them up nice and snug.... stop before you crush the wooden prop hub or strip the aluminum threads.

i've never had one come loose. but its still a good idea to preflight your aircraft (prop bolts,servo arm bolts/screws and linkages) just in case.
do you use blue on the muffler cause ive seen some come loose in that area because of the heat? is there any other kind of loctite that will stand up to the heat of the engine
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 11:36 PM
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United States, NC, Greensboro
Joined Dec 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VENOMiTry View Post
do you use blue on the muffler cause ive seen some come loose in that area because of the heat? is there any other kind of loctite that will stand up to the heat of the engine
copper coat on the exhaust gasket (available at advance auto and autozone)

red loctite on the muffler bolts with periodic checks for tightness.. you will have to tighten them a couple of times as you heat cycle the engine.... not because the bolts got loose but because the exhaust gasket compresses and settles in.... make sure to remove the bolts ,clean them up with a wire brush and re loctite... dont disturb the exhaust gasket just re do the bolts one at a time.

you have to be disciplined and thorough when dealing with expensive aircraft like we are discussing. (least for me they are) besides being expensive they can be extremely dangerous!

Keep this in mind...

Vibration will shake things loose...its not a matter of if... but when.

you need to have a comprehensive preflight checklist and stick to it....minimal tools are required..... your eyes are the most important part.........check every thing that can be checked.... dont be lazy and not pull the cowl to check the motor mount bolts and the throttle linkage.... the time that you dont will come back to bite you in the tookus and turn your prized plane into toothpicks prematurely.

trust me on this one!
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Last edited by racerman27410; Apr 25, 2012 at 11:43 PM.
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 11:36 PM
ProBro, 3D
gregory.da's Avatar
United States, FL, The Villages
Joined Jul 2008
946 Posts
I use blue loctite and drill a hole in the muffler can and attach it via wire to something on the fuse in case it vibrates loose in flight. Mufflers are expensive to replace!
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 01:11 AM
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winston mo
Joined Oct 2006
7,539 Posts
I just posted the question over at flying giants on torquing 4 bolt props.
http://www.flyinggiants.com/forums/s...22#post1722805
I myself after seeing a few broken prop bolts bought a single bolt prop adaptor from
http://www.valleyviewrc.com/estore/d...er-dle-30.html
it just gives me piece of mind and I don't have the headaches of drilling props plus I can use plastic or carbon fiber props as well
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 05:45 AM
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Culpeper, VA
Joined Oct 2005
714 Posts
Throttle linkage question

I'm in the process of installing my throttle linkage and had a question about the connectors I want to use. I'm going to use 4-40 rod. On the servo side I'm going to use a Du-Bro heavy duty ball link. On the carb side I want to use a Du-Bro safety lock kwik-link since the kwik-link will center up to the throttle arm. Since this is my first gas plane/set-up will the kwik-link be safe to use on the throttle arm? The Du-Bro safety lock kwik-link looks like this.
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 06:04 AM
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RC_Feen's Avatar
Culpeper, VA
Joined Oct 2005
714 Posts
Prop question

For my OS GT-33 I need to run a 18x8 prop for break-in. Not much experience in wooden props so what is the difference between the Xoar & Zinger Pro props? Price difference between the two is about $5-6. Thanks!
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 07:37 AM
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Northwest Indiana
Joined Feb 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC_Feen View Post
For my OS GT-33 I need to run a 18x8 prop for break-in. Not much experience in wooden props so what is the difference between the Xoar & Zinger Pro props? Price difference between the two is about $5-6. Thanks!

Zingers are crap but for break in it will fine.....after that, go with a xoar

Venom as far as the prop bolts, i do use a small amount of blue loctitie on them and just snug them gradually in a criss cross pattern. You want them to be snug but don't go crazy where you start crushing the wood. I usually tighten them to just before that point
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 12:02 PM
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United States, NC, Greensboro
Joined Dec 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC_Feen View Post
For my OS GT-33 I need to run a 18x8 prop for break-in. Not much experience in wooden props so what is the difference between the Xoar & Zinger Pro props? Price difference between the two is about $5-6. Thanks!
Xoar is a much better prop but the zinger will work for break in.... just make sure and balance it.
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 01:59 PM
3d NOOBular
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USA, UT, St George
Joined Aug 2010
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Zingers are great... for stirring paint.
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 02:08 PM
Wannabe 3D Pilot
flyracer's Avatar
USA, AZ, Chandler
Joined Nov 2006
1,199 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by racerman27410 View Post
Keep this in mind...

Vibration will shake things loose...its not a matter of if... but when.

you need to have a comprehensive preflight checklist and stick to it....minimal tools are required..... your eyes are the most important part.........check every thing that can be checked.... dont be lazy and not pull the cowl to check the motor mount bolts and the throttle linkage.... the time that you dont will come back to bite you in the tookus and turn your prized plane into toothpicks prematurely.

trust me on this one!
good summarization!
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 02:11 PM
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Rittman
Joined Apr 2010
76 Posts
Well my engine (DLE30) and props (falcon) just showed up today. Now I am just waiting on my canister and servos. I have everything else so it looks like this weekend will be spent building and possibly starting my engine for the first time.
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