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Old Sep 27, 2012, 08:14 PM
RC Keeps Me Sane
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United States, NJ, Carlstadt
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Got some testing in today. Light gyro works excellent, faster and more agile for sure. Handles totally different in a good way but for a beginner it would be a handful.
Tested rake adjustments and tighter damper, but I found out my front wheel had a broken spoke. That explained a few of the problems I had. I just changed out the wheel with a spare and will send back the broken one. I'll have to test again with the new wheel and tire. But it's going to rain tomorrow so first chance I get the bike out I will.
Yes the rear tires wear much faster than the rear, between peeling out and skidding stops I think mine had about 4-5 hours on it. It almost looks like a slick being that I had the rear open I replaced the tire. The lighter gyro would be ok after learning to drive first. Overall weight goes down so traction is less and braking gets worse. Speed went up on the GPS but I'll wait for the next drive to confirm before reporting.
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 11:19 PM
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Currently i'm havign issues doing tight turns, i have 5-6m wide area and my turns would take up most of the area, and if i turn slowly, the bike is just leaning on the stabiliser bar as an anchor to turn, is this how its suppose to be?

I have already shorten the bar. How long do you have your bar from the body?
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 11:24 PM
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when driving fast, the brakes seems pretty useless. i'll be getting the front brakes in 2 weeks (takes awhile to get stuff delivered to Aus) hopefully it will give me more braking power.

by the sounds of it, the rear tires dont last very long, i was thinking of getting the soft slicks as my car park is a smooth slippery surface, so far the stock rear tires seem to grip ok. Havent had any wheelie yet (maybe due to the nimh battery).

been using hot glue gun, and surround the screw mounting holes and seems to hold much better than CA glue, just doesnt look neat.
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 11:44 PM
RC Keeps Me Sane
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United States, NJ, Carlstadt
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On turns I hardly ever touch my now steel scratch bars. From the fairing out they are 50mm, if you look at my earlier pics of the nylon rod bars they are now made of 3/16" music wire and are held in deep into the frame holes by friction fit.
Do you have the rate knob set right? The rate increases or decreases the throw on the servo. About 1 o'clock position should be plenty. With the gyro you want it powered up touch the brakes and lean the bike, keep the steering wheel slightly in the direction of the turn and use some throttle to keep the bike off the bars. Your habits of driving a car/buggy is the problem.
Throttle up and turn the wheel neutral to opposite direction to get a straight line. Wheelies on NiMh, do a speed run to power up the gyro bring the bike near you and slow it down to a near crawl now punch it or blip the throttle as long as you have traction the bike will come up. Be careful too much and the bike will roll over on the rear fender.
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 02:31 AM
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The rate i have is set at 3'oclock and i changed out the stock servo from a spare i had from my 1/8 car so there should be plenty of power.

definitely need to practice on my throttle. When i try to throttle up during the turn, the bike would just sit up and then fall back down trying to turn..

im thinking maybe its the slippery surface making the bike lose traction when i throttle during the turn.
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 08:18 AM
RC Keeps Me Sane
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United States, NJ, Carlstadt
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3 o'clock might be a bit too much, do practice wide turns to adjust the rate. Start with less and increase until you find a lean and speed you can handle. Slippery will make the bike stand up, wobble and go down again. You really need a larger area to practice to get the feel for it, I was surprized how rusty I was after 3 years. Experiment with getting the bike leaned and add throttle slowly to keep the bike down in a large circle, you'll see more throttle can keep the bike down and low and then repeat in th opposite direction. Practice figure 8's.
Start small and slow and then speed things up larger and larger. You'll have fast sweeping turns in no time.
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 10:51 AM
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i drove the bike on a different surface today just normal bitume road on the street, and the bike turned easier and was easier to control from the rate at 12 - 1oclock... use to dialing that up with rc cars.
manage to do a wheelie on this surface as you advise with the nimh battery, wasnt really prepared for that and the bike kept going sitting on its rear end and scrape abit of plastic. i have then added a small piece of wire to the back so it would scrape the wire instead of the plastic.


i think the issue that i've been having these few days is because of my apartment carpark being very smooth and slippery surface hence i couldnt turn very well,.

If you ever get to test the slick tires let me know what you think. i think i may need more traction to play in my carpark

I didnt realise there was that 3 screw holes next to the receiver, and so i proceeded with
decreasing the rake to the hole closest to the receiver. the bike looks better like this and the front shocks has more incline angle so when pushing the bike down from its top, it has a smoother suspension feeling.

Im still having head shakes, dont know what else to do, added 70w oil and stretch the springs in the damper, i also stretch the front shock springs. i notice you can mount 2 dampers one on each side

Also just going back on spares, why do you replace the rear axle? does it get bent or worn?
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 11:25 AM
RC Keeps Me Sane
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United States, NJ, Carlstadt
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Glad to see things are improving for you. The slicks do provide more traction for sure.
I stretched the springs even more and used #1000 HPI silicone diff oil it seemed very good considering I was driving with a broken front wheel, still raining no further testing yet.
The stiffer you make the damper the more you have to actually drive it, softer damper makes self centering easier but is prone to head shake.
I tried all 3 positions for the rake but went back to stock, but like I said the front wheel was giving me problems so I'll give it a go next time.
More incline in the fork is increasing rake, makes the bike drop over faster for turns. Less rake improves straight away performance. See what works for you.
A second damper can be used but you'll have to make it fit and the damper action has to be equal. Make sure your front tire is running true, look for cracks in the spokes etc.
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 08:25 PM
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my bike currently weighs 2.53kg, is there any benefit to running aluminium front wheel?
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 08:30 PM
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Regarding the slick tires, would you recommend going straight for the SOFT or will HARD also have more traction than stock, when looking at the SB5 forum, their stock slicks are deemed as useless.

Also do these slick require the optional insert?
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 09:15 PM
RC Keeps Me Sane
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While you're learning and even after that..... leave the bike stock. For parking lot fun/bashing the stock parts are best. Hitting a curb with plastic wheels usually it'll just bounce off. Alum wheels could possibly transfer the energy and break something else or bend the wheel. If you were to get into some serious racing then you just might choose another bike to begin with.
The heavy weight of the stock bike is to your advantage right now, traction and braking is better and it slows the response a bit, but with experience you'll be able to throw it around gracefully. Lipos will shave some weight from the NiMh. Changing tire compound or style is trial and error, you'll have to gamble and see. The slick does require an insert the same type as other bike tires of the same size. The stock front tire has a hard enough form and does not use an insert. For just running around on normal clean but not super smooth asphalt the stock tires are pretty good for traction and wear. Get the real feel and get to know your bike as you get better it's easier to tell what minor improvements if any you might try. The only alum part I have but not installed yet is the rear wheel to run no gyro. I'll make it a quick change setup. The stock lightened gyro wheel complete and I'll assemble the non gyro wheel complete so I can change back and forth in a few minutes. But I can tell you that unless where you run is perfectly swept clean of any stones the stock or lightened gyro is the way to go.
A clean race track is where you can go all out with a race style back wheel.
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Last edited by DanBo3D; Sep 28, 2012 at 09:16 PM. Reason: spell check
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Old Sep 29, 2012, 02:26 AM
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Went to outdorr basket ball court today. Stock tires has plenty of grip that I think I need to apply CA glue as the tire came out of the bead everytime I turn fast. Was easier driving the bike in large area without worry of hitting anything.

When turning fast I notice there was head shake also and have to back off on the throttle which is annoying. Doesnt seem to be a way to get rid of this shake and my damper leak oil that I put in
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Old Sep 29, 2012, 07:40 PM
RC Keeps Me Sane
DanBo3D's Avatar
United States, NJ, Carlstadt
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I had a great day running the DXR500 today, ran 4 packs of 2s 4000 mah 25c almost 20minutes a pack and 2 packs of the 6 cell 3000mah NiMh again about 20 minutes per pack.
My damper with really stretched springs and 1000 silicone diff oil worked perfectly.
I GPS'd 2s lipo at 34.7mph / 55.8kph. Very happy as I was looking for 35mph and I thought I'd have to use a larger pinion to get there. Head shake was zero thru the whole throttle range.
The only time I'd see a little head shake is if it was bump/small stone induced and even then I could drive it right out. Now this is with the lightened gyro and minimal damping really makes it feel like a non gyro bike, the steering is very crisp, easy direct feel to get the bike to drop and change directions is fantastic. This bike turned out to be everything I wanted in a road bike and more.
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Old Sep 30, 2012, 10:03 AM
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sounds great, cant wait to get my lipos next week.

I had a good run today aswell. I glued my tires and the bike ran perfect,

on straight i have minimal head shake, but i get head shake coming out of a turn.

on the nimh the motor was never hot, its was 22degree celcius and motor was around 45degrees.
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Old Sep 30, 2012, 10:05 AM
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just on the replacement part, you mention to have rear axle and washers as spare, why the rear axle? does it get worn or bent?
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