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Old Sep 25, 2012, 08:26 PM
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United States, NJ, Carlstadt
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Originally Posted by hnm738 View Post
Hi, i just bought a new DXR500. First time owning a bike so i thought a gyro would help.

Test drove my bike last night and the wheel wobbles / shakes alot at faster speed. How do i fix this?

Also would like to know of other tips and tricks to make the bike a better drive?

the bike seem to turn very slowly?
guru gave you some good info. The front wheel wobbling is known as "head shake" it's caused by a weak steering damper, as stated you can stretch the internal springs and or add heavier oil to lessen it. You need some flop/slop for the bike to lean and right itself. The gyro will make the bike feel like its slow to respond to turns. This is where the learning curve comes in, a little brake and more throttle makes the bike turn tighter. You're going to have to get the feel for setting up turns early and using the throttle & steering to keep the bike down for high speed turns. In larger turns I can make a full throttle lean (about 30mph) and hold it there until I pick it up. Just keep practicing and get the feel for it at speed and just touch the brakes if needed to get the bike to drop over and then control it with throttle and steering. Removing the gyro before you know how to drive might make it harder to drive as the slower speeds are not as stable but the turning and speed goes up. Although I'm not crazy about the gyro but for me it's not a problem to get very high performance from it. One big advantage to the gyro is when you hit small debris the bike just doesn't crash like no gyro bikes.
A crash on a gyro bike is end over end and it could just keep going if you luck out.
Non gyro crash throws the bike in every direction usually sliding and tumbling on its side and needs a much cleaner area to run to avoid that. My parking lots aren't the cleanest so the gyro really averts allot of crashes from hitting small stones.
Practice, practice, practice, experiment with brakes, throttle steering and you'll see even stock it performs quite well. 2S lipo really wakes it up, I finally got to GPS it at 32.5mph. I just might try a different pinion to try and get it to 35mph (I'll be very happy) as long as the amp draw and temps don't go beyond what I want to see or expect out of the stock motor. I had allot of experience with the DX450 years ago at almost 50mph on 3S. Have fun...
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 08:48 PM
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thank you for the info. i normall drive 1/5 truck and buggy and this bike is definitely different.

I didnt have much luck driving yesterday. my area to play is 6m wide by 50m
and the 6m didnt seem wide enough. plenty of room for a car to up and back.

took 1.5 hours to charge the nimh battery that the bike came with, only drove for 10min before i had to stop.

had 2 minor head on collison to a concrete support beam

and a major side impact which broke the side body screw mounting hole, the stabiliser bar mounting hole, and the leg rest.

took 2 hours to glue it back, i only had CA glue. Do you think this is sufficient to hold the broken bits?
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 08:57 PM
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hi, would you recommend getting the front brakes? i only have the RTR radio.

and also the aluminum clutch?
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 09:28 PM
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United States, NJ, Carlstadt
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I'l try and answer it all, head on collision...... make sure the tire bead didn't come undone from the wheel. Usually if you break the bead the tire will hit the fender until you reseat it.
Check the manual to see it the part(s) you broke is covered by the STRESS TECH warranty free replacment.
Most of it is covered except the body panels. I'm not sure how well CA works on this composite. I can't imagine breaking anything and I had a full speed end over end with just some scaping and a couple of times hit a curb with just having to reseat the bead of the front tire, I haven't reglued it yet. Front brakes work with the stock or any radio. I have them not installed yet, I don't recommend the alum clutch. It takes much more RPM because of the lighter mass to engage and if you have the gyro you may as well let it work as it is.
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 09:38 PM
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All frame parts including the foot pegs and both wheels are Stress Tech covered for one year.
Of course you have to send in the broken part(s) for free replacement.
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 10:58 PM
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Thats great, looks like the parts that broke are covered by the stress tech, the only problem now is i'm from Australia.

Parts were;

main frame
battery case
foot peg
boddy accessory - exhaust

will email Duratrax to see it will work.
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 08:31 AM
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tried to drive the bike, unfortunately the CA glue doesnt work.

I have some setup question;

1. what springs are you using for front and rear shock
2. which mounting hole for rear shock
3. should the front suspension be harder than rear?
4. which pinion gear will not overheat the RTR gears? (3800kv)
5.i stretch the spring and added 70w oil in the steering damper, this reduces the shake, but shake is still there, do i continue to stretch the spring?
6. do you have a wheelie bar made / installed?
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 09:25 AM
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United States, NJ, Carlstadt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hnm738 View Post
tried to drive the bike, unfortunately the CA glue doesnt work.

I have some setup question;

1. what springs are you using for front and rear shock
2. which mounting hole for rear shock
3. should the front suspension be harder than rear?
4. which pinion gear will not overheat the RTR gears? (3800kv)
5.i stretch the spring and added 70w oil in the steering damper, this reduces the shake, but shake is still there, do i continue to stretch the spring?
6. do you have a wheelie bar made / installed?
1. Stock springs front & rear, stretched fronts about 1/4" screwed more preload on rear.
2. Stock shock mounting holes.
3. Suspension stiffness is dependent on your driving and road surface. I found the bike to handle better as stated in line 1.
4. Usually stock option parts like the pinion gears are safe on NiMh batteries, Lipos will make things much hotter. 1 to 2 steps up in gear should be fine but always check motor & ESC temps to be sure. More speed can make the head shake worse, don't go faster than you can get the shake to stop.
5. Tuning a steering damper can be a pain, sometimes it's trial and error.
If you found it to get better stiffer then continue to go stiffer, but there will be a point it just may get worse or too stiff and the bike could get hard to drive.
Normally the front forks should have about 10-15 degrees of free flop when holding the bike in your hand and tipping it in either direction. Make sure your front tire/wheel are round and balanced and tire mounted properly.
6. No wheelie bar, just throttle control. I have flipped the bike over on a wheelie only once. A throttle controlled wheelie can be fun but to just blip the throttle from a slow roll or stop can just be ugly.

One thing you have to learn in driving the bike is to learn to drive a bike.
If you drive it as you would a car it'll never be the fun or handle like it should.
Keep the bike as stock as possible making just some of the tuning listed above and learn the technique a bike takes to drive.
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 09:41 AM
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One thing I forgot to mention is make sure you LOKTITE all metal to metal screws.
The rear axle bolts are famous for coming loose and the front fork axle set screws.
The pinion and spocket gear must be locked. These bikes take a beating and will loosen or lose bolts & screws unless properly maintained. My rear tire will come out of the bead locks. Go over the bike routinely completely. Always do a pre-drive look over and if the bike seems to be doing, acting or sound strange STOP and look for a problem. Anytime something got loose etc the bike will let you know, you just have to know the signs and not ignore any irregularities. Good luck, have fun, these bikes are a blast but just like in the real world they need attention.
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 07:52 PM
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Thanks MicroDan

i had to lock tite the screw to the main gear, as i lost the little pin behind it, the gear just came loose whilst driving, i just used a small piece of nail cut to size to replaced.

Havent had much luck finding other forums regarding this bike. Does anyone know of any?

so far its good that there are some active members, i'll continue to post question so that future owners can refer to issues and fix solutions.
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 08:03 PM
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Ordered 2s Lipo, will be delivered shortly

Question;
1. Do you use a fan on the ESC, is it required on the stock gear?
2. Slipper clutch, im not racing, just driving in the parking lot, is this required?
3. how is the slick tires like? The stock treaded tires seems ok i havent had any issues so far.
4. What parts do you keep as spares?

since im from australia, it cost a far bit to buy 1 part at a time so id like to buy in bulk to save on shipping.
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 10:47 PM
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United States, NJ, Carlstadt
Joined Sep 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hnm738 View Post
Ordered 2s Lipo, will be delivered shortly

Question;
1. Do you use a fan on the ESC, is it required on the stock gear?
2. Slipper clutch, im not racing, just driving in the parking lot, is this required?
3. how is the slick tires like? The stock treaded tires seems ok i havent had any issues so far.
4. What parts do you keep as spares?

since im from australia, it cost a far bit to buy 1 part at a time so id like to buy in bulk to save on shipping.
I don't use a fan, rather I turned the ESC so the fins face the front (see pics a few posts back) Fan would be helpful on the optional motor as it pulls more juice
This bike will break the tire loose from a slow roll and it's even more so on lipo.
I have a slipper but have not installed it yet, so far throttle control keeps the tire from spinning.
The slick tires just came today. I needed to replace my rear tire and installed a new stock rear instead. The slick is softer than the stock so I can see it'll wear a bit quicker. For now I'll use the stock tires.
For spares I actually have a few spare bikes. I have my beater one to test different things another is a shelf queen and 2 others to use for parts or to run.
Common replacement parts are the one way bearing, rear axle, rear tires, spare axle bolts and spacers (if you lose a bolt the spacer falls out) the chain will eventually stretch.
I just came back from a quick test drive in the dark with the lightened gyro.
It's been a long time since I played with the lightened gyro back in 2009 on the DX450.
From my quick test the bike was of course much lighter by just a bit over 7oz (200grams), much faster,and much more agile & turned almost like a non gyro bike. The very slow speed stability is like no gyro at all. The bad thing about going faster the head shake got pretty bad. I'm doing some damper spring adjustments to test in the morning.
I'll also have to run the GPS to check the speed increase and see if I tamed the head shake.
One other thing to test is changing the rake of the front fork. Stock the fork is set in the middle. 2 other positions to increase or decrease rake. I'll try the less rake setup next. Less rake improves straight line performance and more rake improves turning. These also change the wheelbase slightly. I just want to see how these adjustments effect head shake.
I'll report back as more testing is done.....
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 11:01 PM
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i have the lighten clutch and flywheel but will not install it until i can actually drive the bike.

By rake do you mean to 2 screws on the side of the front wheel hub? The manual is pretty useless, no setup guides etc.
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 11:05 PM
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United States, NJ, Carlstadt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hnm738 View Post
i have the lighten clutch and flywheel but will not install it until i can actually drive the bike.

By rake do you mean to 2 screws on the side of the front wheel hub? The manual is pretty useless, no setup guides etc.
Rake is under the rider, there is a screw in the middle whole just in front of the reciever on both sides. the whole fork and servo will move as a unit.
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 06:54 PM
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so in your experience, is the lighter flywheel better?

how often are you replacing rear tires ie. how long has the stock wheels lasted for you?. eg 6months? and does the rear wear quicker than the front?
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Last edited by hnm738; Sep 27, 2012 at 08:17 PM.
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