Originally Posted by scirocco

Thansk - good to hear. I really like the way it is, but don't have any point of comparison other than experiences like yours.

Seabrt calls for a 3,800 to 4,500 mAh pack so it's not a huge difference, maybe 5 ounces...

Jack

Hi Guys

Almost finished mine now. Just a few jobs to go.

Pretty standard version really:

Hacker A50 16S v 2.1
APC 16x12E prop
Castle ICE 100
3 x Hitec HS 5645 MG
Hitec minis for elevators
2x Gens Ace 3S 4000 in series.......I use one of these in my Sebart Angel 30E

Spektrum AR 8000 Rx with a DX8 transmitter.

Last summer....can you remember that LOL (snowing here in London) I had many happy hours flying my Angel 30S, so I'm really looking forward to flying it's big brother ;-)

I did for a think for a long time whether or not to use the built in BEC in the ICE 100, in the end I went with a separate Rx battery.

I did fix the problem with the horizontal stab tube using some tape to make sure it fitted tightly, then used a small amount of cyano. The only other problem was the prop rotating on the spinner's back plate.....fixed this by gluing some small washers of 240 grit wet and dry to the prop adapter and both sides of the spinner back plate.

Waiting on my C of G balance to arrive to find the correct battery placement....and some more Velcro.

Thanks to everyone for the great hints and tips contained in the thread :-)

Hi,

Just a note about Hacker A50-16S versions - there is a new version 3 now that Hacker say is even more efficient and runs even cooler.

"Significantly improve efficiency"

"new rear bearing plate, which allows an even more efficient internal cooling of the entire motor. ... even more power, improved cooling. The new engine design is perfect. Toughest loads let our engines in the truest sense of the word cold. The engines were cooler when tested with a maximum load of up to an incredible 40%."

http://www.hacker-motor.com/en/news/162/index.html
(in german)

So If You are going to buy a Hacker motor now for a Sebart Wind S 50E it might be wise to check that motor out.

/Bo

I just received mine today , Cant wait for the weekend to come to start building it , I brought
Motor: Hacker A50-16S
ESC: Hacker Master Basic 70A ESC
Battery: TP4500-6S
Servo : 5 Savox

Any one tried this setup ??

What info you have given is pretty much the standard.

I'm using the version 1 Hacker A50-16S on mine with Savox servos all round with similar sized pack. In my case Volt-On 35C 4550mah 6S.

Esprit 88,

Where did you get the Hacker Battery straps from? I'm looking to pick some up but the LHS does not have them.

Wing-span,

You can buy the Hacker battery straps (cardboard) from - guess - Hacker:
http://www.hacker-motor-shop.com/e-v...&c=4596&p=4596

It is the 300 mm length You want for Wind S 50E. I have this plane and also use the Hacker battery straps 300 mm. I have opened and closed the straps about 700 times by now since that is about how many flights I have on my Win S 50E (close to 2 years I have been flying with it, summer as well as winter).

/Bo

(You can buy the Hacker battery straps (cardboard) from - guess - Hacker:
http://www.hacker-motor-shop.com/e-v...&c=4596&p=4596)

Thanks bossee. I had not thought of that.

I was hoping to get some from a store. Helps to keep modelling on the highstreet.

Wow, 700 flights! How is the plane and electronics holding up? Any weak points?

My plane has only about 20 flights so far but I hope to add some 100 this summer. The problem is my closest field is a bit tight for a plane this size but now that I have ESC with adjustable brake I think I can learn to land safely there as well.

BR, Risto

Finnspeed/Risto,

Yes it has been much flying with my Win S 50E. It is my favorite. But I have a Sebart MythoS 125E ready soon so flights with my Wind S 50E will be less then.

It is not that many weak spots on Wind S 50E.
- I knew when I assembled it that the motor plywood box was a thing to make sure it was glued properly since it had been reports the motor box had been ripped off. So the first thing I did on the motor box was to add a little extra glue on all joints. It has not been any problem on my plane.

- The stab carbon tube had not to great stability horisontally so I glued mine carbon tube in fuselage and stab was then firm horisontally.

- Tailgear was OK until the pianowire that goes in to rudder came loose. It could have been made better by Sebart (or by me) from the start but I used it for a while until it came loose, then I changed to a Sullivan tailgear with spring loaded stearing of the tailgear. Much better for the servo also. But that did not prevent the Sullivan tailgear to break - the pianowire broke in the windings (just like that on a normal landing, maybe fatigue), but I replaced it with same Sullivan tailgear again and had not had any problem after that.

- Canopy screws on left and right side of canopy has worked wery well, but I glued funnel type of washers on fuselage where screw enter to prevent wear on the hole and it has really worked well this simple enhancement.

- The aluminium landing gear I have bent one leg when I flew in very windy condition where at landing the wind moved the plane sideways and force a rather hard landing on one leg so it took all force on that side. So I replaced the landing gear. It is actually good it was little soft aluminum main gear since that save the fuselage.
I have one summer landing gear with wheels and one winter landing gear with skiis.
On one change of the landing gear when I unscrewed it I heard a "plop" inside the fuselage - the blind nut for one of the landing gear screws came loose. So I hade to do a little "Surgical" operation under fuselage, cut open a rectangle so I could glue back the blind nut (and also add little extra glue on the other blind nuts).

- The cowl where the screws are holding it it is a small crack but I reinforced on backside with a stripe of glass fibre and epoxy and after that all has been fine.

- I reinforced already from the start the rather fragile balsa spar between the aír went outlet under the fuselage, just glued two carbon strips on left and right side.

- The wing carbon tube and the small wing carbon rods that fix the wing halves to fuselage is still good and no play. The little glass fibre tounge on the wing where it is screewed to fuselage is still in good condition and I still use same original two sreews to hold the wing halves.

- The Oracover (Ultracote) plastic film has been very good. When plane was new I spent serveral hours iron everyting so it got adhered to the balsa and it has not been many wrinkles after that to take care of.

- I'm little surprised that all the Sebart CA hinges still has not caused any trouble. I glued them very carefully so they would not come loose but I'm little surpried not a single hinge has broken.

- Today when I was out flying (about 20 flights) at one landing one lightweight main wheel broke in pieces. Fatigue? Had to travel home and get spare wheel and back to flying field.

- The Hacker motor (A50-16S V2) has worked without a single problem all time.
- My ESC, Castle Creations ICE 100, has not been any problem with (I still use firmware 3.27 - do not fix anything that do not need to be fixed is a good motto)
- My 3 Futaba servos (for rudder, ailerons) S9551 has worked like a Swizz clock. Same with elevator servos, JR DS3717HV. Reciever, Futaba R6008HS (in HS mode) has worked without any problem also.

- I have consumed three 6 cell LiPo so far (not enough performance on them anymore so they are retired for use in Win S 50E - Desire Power V8 35C 5200 mAh). I got 3 new 6 cell LiPo this year (Gens ace 5000 mAh 45C) and I had a Turnigy 6 cell 5000 mAh 45C as spare since before that is still going strong.

What I like with my Wind S 50E is the very low maintenance, seen over all 700 flights so far. Usually after a days flying it is only to carry in the plane in the house and nothing is to be taken care of. The wings are in the wingbag, the fuselage is on the table waiting for next day of flying. Just go to the charger and storage charge the LiPo (or charge full if I fly next day). It gives so much time over for other things.

I'm little surprised that an ARF can be this durable and not break down after many hundred flights. I have really been flying this plane in all weather conditions (hot sunshine, cold and light rain, very windy conditions, in winter on ice and on snow).

The plane does not hold againts any hard treatment towards the ground I'm sure but as long as one land reasonable smooth it will last long long time I think.
Since I do not do any "3D" flying with the plane I do not know if it will be strong enough for such type of flying, I fly F3A only with this plane and it do not stress the plane that much.

If one ask me if I would buy this plane again if needed I would without hesitate say Yes.
As far as flying capabilites for F3A style flying it is a very good plane in my opinion.
Build quality is very good also, not a very cheap plane perhaps but not super expensive either.

As for landings on spot I have found out it is little easier then to come in little high on no throttle and almost dive towards the spot You want to land on. If one do a shallow approach the plane has a tendency to float and take rather long landing distance and rollout.

Some pictures below from today, sunshine and rather warm but gusty winds that chaged wind directions often (I made some starts in one direction but had to land in opposite direction).

Long post... but perhaps someone will find some of it helpful.

/Bo

Thanks Bo, excellent report and very informative! I sure wish I can reach that number of flights with my plane. I think I'll follow your advice and glue strips of carbon to the air vent before I take the plane to the field.

As you know I'm running 5S setup for which I had undersized batteries (Zippy Compact 4000 mAh) last season. Those are now going to my new Firenza and the Wind is getting 4650 mAh Dualsky HED batteries. These could still be too small to fly the Nordic sequence but should be enough for Sports. I suppose I need at least 5200 mAh to fly through Nordic but then I have to switch to a lighter prop to get the CG right - or move the rudder servo to tail.

***Risto***

Here is a picture from SEFF 2013 of some of the SebArt lineup.
McD

I think Sebart planes are a good value, given the price and quality.
I just bought a Miss Wind 50...I was lucky enough to find the last green/white one in stock at GravesRC
(Yes, my bride liked the green/white better than the current blue/white )

I have also purchased these from www.discountlipos.com, who provide free shipping (which is a good savings given the dimensional weight shipping charges for these kits)

Hi,

One little enhancement that makes mounting of the wing faster and easier on Wind S 50E:

I bought Secraft wing bolts (with M4 screw) so now I can fasten the wing halves to fuselage without any tools. Just use my fingers and tighten the bolts.

Secraft wing bolt:
http://www.secraft.net/shop/step0.ph...20110924041046

/Bo

Thanks for that! There's even a local dealer who has them here in Australia (Desert Aircraft)