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Old Apr 02, 2011, 09:17 PM
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tlh101's Avatar
Corpus Christi, Texas, United States
Joined Dec 2002
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Build Log
78 inches of Fiberglass B-17--Maiden Complete, Vid inside

Some may remember a couple of months ago, I posted about this kit looking for some power options and opinions: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1401336
Anyhow, it a 78" B-17 moulded from glass, with foam wing and stab cores, sheeted with glass covers. Pics of the kit are in the thread above.
I started the build today and got the hatch cut out and framed up.
I started out by laying masking tape along the lines to be cut. Then carefully cut the lines with a good straight saw blade. I cut up to about 1/4" or so from the corners, them put tape down to help keep the hatch from falling and damaging one of the corners while I finished the cuts.
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Old Apr 02, 2011, 09:24 PM
FICKLE FLYER
tlh101's Avatar
Corpus Christi, Texas, United States
Joined Dec 2002
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Next, I installed the front and rear bulkheads in the fuse, and made the frame for the opening. Next I cut front and rear hatch formers to fit, and framed the hatch. It has 2 dowel pins in the front, and magnets in the rear to hold it down.
next, I will be setting up the plug in wing bulkheads in side the fuse, then start on the wings.
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Old Apr 03, 2011, 04:06 PM
FICKLE FLYER
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Corpus Christi, Texas, United States
Joined Dec 2002
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Worked on the wing spars/mounts today. The formers that the wings plug into are already cut from 1/4 5 ply aircraft plywood, as are the spars. The spars are then laminated with carbon fiber. Pretty sure this set-up will hold the wings nicely. I will later cut slots in the wing cores for the spars and front stubs to glue in. Using 2 #8 bolts and blind nuts on the spars, and #10 on the stubs. The pics are pretty much self explanatory on this process.
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Old Apr 03, 2011, 04:55 PM
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Prowler901's Avatar
USA, NY, Amsterdam
Joined Jun 2007
1,230 Posts
That's a nice looking kit. And, a big beastie too. I look forward to following your progress.

Todd
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Old Apr 09, 2011, 06:55 PM
FICKLE FLYER
tlh101's Avatar
Corpus Christi, Texas, United States
Joined Dec 2002
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Got the wing spars mounted into the wing cores today. Capped the leading edge of the core and sanded that to correct shape, then marked marked the cores where the spars mount. I used a couple of pieces of 1/4 square hardwood with holes drilled in them for nails to guide the saw. Next I cut the 1/16" sheet end caps for the wings.
Now I set the fuse up on the table with a bunch of weight in the bottom and some shims to support it with the fin at 90 degrees to the world. I then add epoxy to the spars and wing slots, and the end, and placed the wings on the spars. I taped them at the fuse in the correct position. Then I used a center-line on marked the L/E to guide my incidence meter, to get 4 1/2 degrees of dihedral. I next poured some epoxy down over the spars in the slots. After that sets up, I add more epoxy to make sure the spar is glued in solid. Then I cap the slots with extra foam epoxied in and sanded to shape.
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Old Apr 09, 2011, 06:57 PM
FICKLE FLYER
tlh101's Avatar
Corpus Christi, Texas, United States
Joined Dec 2002
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Here's a couple of pics, with the wing skins just laying on the installed cores. Sure looks kool.
Next I will be working on installing the Spring Air retracts.
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Old Apr 10, 2011, 09:34 AM
Oh no, not again!
jhspring's Avatar
United States, LA, Carencro
Joined Dec 2005
5,436 Posts
Clever idea for the spar slot alignment guide. Thank you for that. Looks like the build is coming along nicely.

Jeff
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Old Apr 10, 2011, 12:09 PM
An itch?. Scratch build.
eflightray's Avatar
South Wales U.K.
Joined Mar 2003
13,393 Posts
If it helps at all, this thread is my scratch built 100" span B-17 -

B17 Love Hate relationship. Progress report
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Old Apr 10, 2011, 03:14 PM
FICKLE FLYER
tlh101's Avatar
Corpus Christi, Texas, United States
Joined Dec 2002
1,235 Posts
Nice looking 17, and flies good too.
Put the retracts in today. First I had to cut the opening in the nacelle for the gear and wheel. This was done by marking the scribed line with a sharpie, then with a paper towel damp with acetone, I wiped away the sharpie, leaving the ink in the scribe line. Note, this only works with a gel-coated surface, not on paint. I cut as close to the line as possible with a fibre cut-off wheel, then release the part with a small saw. The curved edges are then cleaned up with a drum sander. The straight edges are done with sanding blocks, files and paper. This opening determines where the gear will mount. next the plate is used to mark the foam.
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Old Apr 10, 2011, 03:17 PM
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Corpus Christi, Texas, United States
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I next used an assortment of knives, saws and sanding bars to create opening to the correct depth and angle. I then cut the excess out to let the retract body clear. Next, the plate is glued in with thickened 30 min epoxy. I then drilled holes at an angle to pin the plate in the wing and spread the load a bit.
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Old Apr 10, 2011, 03:20 PM
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Corpus Christi, Texas, United States
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........and the results.
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Old Apr 10, 2011, 03:28 PM
FICKLE FLYER
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Corpus Christi, Texas, United States
Joined Dec 2002
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Weighed everything this morning and added 12oz for paint, and come out right at 10lbs. I am thinking about using this Topstar E480 from Value Hobby for power. It's 1100kv and turns this 9x7.5 ParkZone prop at about 8600 rpm. About 390watts @ 35 amps static on 3s.
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Old Apr 12, 2011, 04:47 AM
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CODY614's Avatar
Phoenix< Arizona
Joined Jun 2005
176 Posts
Wow....
This is gonna be good!

Is this kit still available?


Cody
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Old Apr 12, 2011, 06:45 PM
FICKLE FLYER
tlh101's Avatar
Corpus Christi, Texas, United States
Joined Dec 2002
1,235 Posts
No, I don't think it is. I found it on E-bay, and when I tried to research it, I came up with nothing.
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Old Apr 14, 2011, 06:39 PM
FICKLE FLYER
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Corpus Christi, Texas, United States
Joined Dec 2002
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Not much new this week. I have glued on the top skin of one wing, and added all the wood. Also routed out wire runs and servo pocket. Next I will be fitting the lower skin, and firewalls. There will be a lot "fiddling" around here, to make the nacelles fit together right, before gluing the lower skin in place.
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