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Old Jul 09, 2011, 06:12 PM
NDw
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you don 't need to solder at all, other than to join the cl connector to a 4 or 5 pin servo type conector.
pin out is


so you connect the chainlink wires to pin 1, 3 and 4.
Btw www.leaderhobby.com have fysky 9x's in stock at a very good price.

I've got 2 9x's off them and both have been perfect. Each was delivered here in about a week and a half.
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Old Jul 09, 2011, 07:12 PM
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thank you what about the second negative wire?
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Old Jul 10, 2011, 12:50 AM
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dw i read the thread again... it seems the second black wire is redundant.

thank you
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Old Jul 10, 2011, 01:05 PM
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Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!!

I'm just about to order a chainlink and a 9x for my Ritewing Zephyr fpv platform an that picture is EXACTLY what I needed!!!

Also thanks for the link to the super cheap 9x!


Quote:
Originally Posted by NDw View Post
you don 't need to solder at all, other than to join the cl connector to a 4 or 5 pin servo type conector.
pin out is


so you connect the chainlink wires to pin 1, 3 and 4.
Btw www.leaderhobby.com have fysky 9x's in stock at a very good price.

I've got 2 9x's off them and both have been perfect. Each was delivered here in about a week and a half.
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Old Jul 14, 2011, 12:00 AM
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Please verify your pins with a multimeter. On my 9X, pins 2 and 4 are both grounds, pin 1 is PPM, pin 3 is power (measured 6.8Vdc), and pin 5 is not used or connected to anything. RF is a separate wire from the RF section, right through the module case to the antenna.
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Old Jul 14, 2011, 06:30 AM
NDw
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Yes stock 9x's have ground on pin 2 as well as 4. I've modded mine bringing 6v to pin 2 so it works with standard jr modules.

Pin 3 on mine gives whatever the voltage is of my batteries(when tx is switched on)

So actually a standard 3 pin servo connector could be used with stock 9x's.

On pin 1 2 and 3
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Old Mar 23, 2012, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by markus123456 View Post
Hi all,

I modified my Turnigy 9x to operate with either a RangeLink, ChainLink or DragonLink LRS system. I don't own a Scherrer or EzUhf so I don't know if the aproach would work there too.

This is a step by step instruction to end with what I think a pretty nice solution. What I missed from other tutorials were two things.

a) a clean way to connect to the transmitter signals while still haveing the option to use the trainer port

b) To have the lrs systems antenna point vertically. Most mods seem to mount it horizontaly. This is a missalignement of the antennas by 90 degrees which results in 12 dB loss, alas range would suffer quite a bit.

So here we go. I do not give any instructions on how to change the firmware in the Turnigy 9x as there are other tutorials describing this very well. Obviousely I strongly recommend to do so as the alternative firmwares are WAY better than what comes in the stock setup. This tutorial centers around connecting the CL (or DL, should work the same) to your transmitter.

The first picture showes the original Turnigy 9x back side with the original HF module in place. We don't need this module any more, but we need the housing!


Remove the module and open it's cover by unscrewing the two black small screws. Then remove the hot glue and cut off the antenna wire close to the PCB. Take the complete PCB out.


This is how the PCB that you have to take out looks like.


This is the back side of the PCB. Now cut off all components from the upper board, and seperate the boards. Unsolder all components except for the connector that leaves the original module and connects to the transmitter.


Once you have unsoldered the components, the board should look like this.


On the back side leave this connector.


Now solder the cable that came with your CL or DL to the board as shown in this picture. Make sure to FIRST route the cable through the hole in the original hf module cover.


Once done it should look like this.


Glue the PCB back into the housing using hot glue. Make sure not to use too much and to only glue it on the sides (like in the following picture). Otherwise the module cover will no longer snap in properly.


This picture showes the complete modification to the HF module.


Now we have to remove the original antenna. To do so, open up the TX housing (six screws) and disconnect the connector that goes to the main PCB inside the tx. You should have this in front of you.


Unscrew the marked screw, and pull the antenna out.


Unscrew the second screw also and take the black part out


You should end up with something like this.


Now cut off the remaining antenna tube from the main tx housing and grind it down to the level.


Attach velcro on the area.


Attach the other part of the velcro to the back side of your LRS system transmitter and put it in place. Connect the wire that comes out of the original HF module housing to the lrs transmitter.


This is how your transmitter now should look like.


Enjoy!

Markus
G'day Markus,

Yes I'm aware this thread is old but I'm in my garage doing the mod now.

First question: Will my 9.9v 5c LiFe battery be enough to power both the TX and the RangeLink?

And in the photo showing the PCB Board soldering spots, to save myself adding a stray wire to my nicely twisted servo extension wire, can I join the two ground wires together to solder onto the one ground wire that will be soldered onto the empty PCB board?

Or if anyone else can answer me I'll really appreciate a quick abnswer so I can get on with the job!

Cheers,

Alan.
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Old Mar 23, 2012, 09:33 PM
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And another sorry.

How do I tell which pin on the Turnigy radio is PPM? I'm guessing there will be a certain voltage but how much difference is there between PPM voltage and power voltage? Is it large enough to tell a difference cause I know that PPM will be less than power but by how much I don't know.

Cheers,

Alan.
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Old Mar 24, 2012, 01:45 AM
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I can't seem to get anything above 4v or do on any of the pins. Will I have to power directly from the power switch or battery connection?
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Old Mar 24, 2012, 05:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Teamsherman View Post
G'day Markus,

Yes I'm aware this thread is old but I'm in my garage doing the mod now.

First question: Will my 9.9v 5c LiFe battery be enough to power both the TX and the RangeLink?
If memory serves the battery voltage is 1:1 passed on with this mod, so if the RL specs allow this I'd say yes as long as the ampere rating of the battery is high enough. 5c is not sufficient as info as you haven't told us how many mA it's having.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Teamsherman View Post
And in the photo showing the PCB Board soldering spots, to save myself adding a stray wire to my nicely twisted servo extension wire, can I join the two ground wires together to solder onto the one ground wire that will be soldered onto the empty PCB board?

Or if anyone else can answer me I'll really appreciate a quick abnswer so I can get on with the job!

Cheers,

Alan.
GND is GND, so you can solder the two GND connections of the original cable within the module or if you connect your servo wires to the RLTx connector externally you can do that there too.

HTH

Markus
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Old Mar 24, 2012, 05:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teamsherman View Post
And another sorry.

How do I tell which pin on the Turnigy radio is PPM? I'm guessing there will be a certain voltage but how much difference is there between PPM voltage and power voltage? Is it large enough to tell a difference cause I know that PPM will be less than power but by how much I don't know.

Cheers,

Alan.
The yellow wire in my picture series is PPM out. Just follow the trace on the little PCB where its soldered to to see at which tx pin it ends.

Measureing voltage of the PPM pin is pointless as the signal changes it levels way faster than the voltage meter can detect. You would need a scope to see this and there you would see that it's level changes from zero to 5 volts. The voltage meter will virtually show you like random values all in between those two extremes.

Markus
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Old Mar 24, 2012, 05:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Teamsherman View Post
I can't seem to get anything above 4v or do on any of the pins. Will I have to power directly from the power switch or battery connection?
This is pretty odd. Sounds like you made a mistake somewhere. It's a while though since I made the mod and I currently don't know out of the top of my head if the red wire (+ pole) is a regulated 5v out or the battery power. But even then it should not be below say 4.95v or so. It might be thoug that you see less if you measure under load. Did you measured with the RL turned on? If so, it might be that the voltage drops if the battery does not have enough power (too small mA).

Let us know exactly how you wired things up and what exact battery you are using.

Markus
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Old Mar 24, 2012, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markus123456 View Post
This is pretty odd. Sounds like you made a mistake somewhere. It's a while though since I made the mod and I currently don't know out of the top of my head if the red wire (+ pole) is a regulated 5v out or the battery power. But even then it should not be below say 4.95v or so. It might be thoug that you see less if you measure under load. Did you measured with the RL turned on? If so, it might be that the voltage drops if the battery does not have enough power (too small mA).

Let us know exactly how you wired things up and what exact battery you are using.

Markus

No mistakes mate, as this is at the TX pins not anywhere near the soldering job.


And it's an 1800mah battery and by using the Turnigy version Its deffinately powering the rangelink.
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Old Mar 24, 2012, 09:13 PM
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And no, I measured it without load.

I got it to work on the proper turnigy but am going to sell it of anyway.
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Old Apr 08, 2012, 03:51 AM
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Thanks for this thread, it helped me very much! This is my T9X after the mod :-)
Basic functionality seems to be ok so hope it will also work in the air ... :-)
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