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Old Jun 26, 2011, 12:41 PM
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Fans ready to go in and get tested

Steel wire slips over and helps mylar duct keep its shape ...

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Old Jun 26, 2011, 12:42 PM
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$11 gear door sequencer (one channel fast, one slow or with delay), works like a charm

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Old Jun 26, 2011, 08:16 PM
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Beware of inexpensive gadgets Herb. Sometimes you get what you pay for

Please make the change to JR and get a 12x so we can program that sweet ride for success.
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Old Jun 26, 2011, 08:17 PM
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Oh yes!!!!! JR FEEL THE DIFFERENCE!!!!!
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Old Jun 27, 2011, 01:35 PM
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... It's a very simple and straightforward device, it slows down one channel and puts a fixed delay on the other

The only difference with more expensive sequencer (eg jetronics) is that the delay is fixed to something like 3 seconds ... That might or might not suit the application.

In my business overly complex and expensive does not necessarily mean better
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Old Jun 29, 2011, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corona ex View Post
oh yes!!!!! Jr feel the difference!!!!!


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Old Jun 30, 2011, 01:46 PM
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Was able to ge a bit more work done on the Me-262 ...

Installed the front wing wing bolts and the rear wing holding brace with the two captive nuts. It took quite a bit of fiddling to get the wing to sit level in the right spot.

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Old Jun 30, 2011, 01:51 PM
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I installed a stiffening former in the rear fuse, so that there's less flapping of the sides and the paint won't chip off (it seems a common problem on the AW Me-262 due to the very light fg layup).

I made a simple paper cutout pattern, conforming to the outside of the fuse. After I cut out the ply former, it fit right in

The former is located about midway between the wing trailing edge and front of the vertical fin. The hysol gun with the applicator tip really helps in getting the epoxy in the right place.

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Old Jun 30, 2011, 01:59 PM
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The two 90mm fans were glued in at the intakes with GE Silicone II, same for the stiffening formers at the back of the fans.

The formers are then glued all around to the nacelles with Hysol, again using the very convenient long applicator mixing tips.

The fan mounts should hopefully be rigid enough to cut down on noise and vibrations, and reduce the overall torsional stress on the wing by dampening resonance modes.

Also the outlet is way too big for a high powered 90mm setup, had to be reduced.



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Old Jun 30, 2011, 02:04 PM
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Next will be some work on the tail, on the rudder servo setup & linkage, and on the ply stiffener glued inside the vertical fin.

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Old Jun 30, 2011, 11:58 PM
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Excellent work, Herb.

In my opinion, the fuselage former is a must-do thing. I will most definitely install one on my AW Me-262 after seeing yours. Thanks for the mod.

Do you plan on providing an airflow over the batteries and ESC? I'm using Castle Creations ESCs, and they are rated to handle the max amps with a 5MPH airflow. So I plan on providing at least that much. I'm just not sure where they would be most efficient. I wonder how much airflow would get through the open nose gear door?

The duct work looks fantastic. What thickness mylar did you use for your ducting, and what's the final outlet diameter of the ducting?
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Old Jul 01, 2011, 01:21 PM
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Hi Thunder, thanks for the kind words ! Your picture of the nacelle former was very useful.

I thought the fuse former would be a pain to get right in shape, but after getting the shape correctly from the outside with a paper template, it turned out to be a breeze. Two would have been just as easy ...

The very rear former (going up a bit into the tail) will be inserted from an opening under the fuse/tail.

The mylar for the ducting I got at a local arts supply store, they come in large flat sheets of all sorts of thicknesses (they keep them in drawers). Mine is about xerox paper thin whatever that is. Better not too thin though, I'd say for an overhead transparency it would be classified a bit as on the thick side. Although chemically differerent perhaps, acetate sheet works the same.

In my experience the thrust tube needs to be taped well, I had one burts in flight at the seam in my Aeronaut Panther The final outlet in the Me-262 was calculated at 68mm.

Regarding the ESC's it is my experience that already a tiny bit of airflow will make a tremendous difference in cooling. Also make sure you have some safety margin (20%?) in amperage. Mine will be mounted flat on the wing top, front.

The cooling air can come in through the front gear door opening, and that's going to be a problem with a nose gear door Perhaps one more reason not to have one. Also, there needs to be a big hole(s) at the fuse back to let the warm air out.

I have found that 3.5V graphics card fans work very well for cooling, but I have a hard time finding them now at fry's (elec. store). I have used one in my large F-86 Sabre for a year with no issues (see pic below), I did not want to cut a large square hole in the duct.

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Last edited by Herb; Jul 01, 2011 at 05:11 PM.
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Old Jul 01, 2011, 02:16 PM
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I checked the brake setup for smooth operation, and everything seems to be working fine so far. No leaks !

Mechanically the brakes seem to work well, they don't lock or bind when the pressure is off.

Even with the smaller airtank @ 100psi I get about 10 brake cycles, which should be good.

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Old Jul 01, 2011, 08:08 PM
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Yesterday evening I also got around routing all the airlines for the brakes.

The wing is now, finally, almost done ... Including the gear door mounts.

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Last edited by Herb; Aug 08, 2011 at 03:14 PM.
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Old Jul 02, 2011, 03:52 PM
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Decals have arrived from Germany, actually some are re-usable paint masks.

Ralle shipped them Tuesday and I got them today (Saturday)

www.tailormadedecals.com

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