I thought it was the rear pins coming out, so after the maiden flight I pulled out both and made pegs that were nearly twice the length. I believe the flaw is in having the magnets in the front. Mine definitely came off from the front caused by some vibrations when I ticked the prop on a landing. Everything looked buttoned down, and I didn't really inspect it closely. Not satisfied with the landing (I had been greasing them consistently) I taxiied back to the runway end and went to go for another go-round. It popped off at the bottom of a loop.
Were I to build a canopy, I doubt I would use magnets, but rather a pin spring locked into the rear with pegs going into the former in front. I just think its poor design, but that's just me. I was also disappointed that a replacement was unavailable. They have been an out of stock item since before April of this year. That alone should tell you something.
Now I have a whole second plane in the workshop, sans canopy.. I'll make one up but change the position of the pegs to the front, then try to sell it. (I'm actually toying with keeping it and wickering in electric retracts.) Also note that I replaced the factory wheels with larger diameter on the Mains. The set up from the factory has the back end sitting down so that the plane has a Nose up condition of almost 22 degrees. You cannot lower the nose since the front wheel strut has the flat spot for the steering assembly set such that it dictates where the strut must be locked down. I suppose you could cut some of the strut and re-do the set screw flat spot, but this restricts prop diameter. Its hard to see in the picture, but I still don't have it parallel to the surface. As set, it comes off the ground after a 30 foot roll. I also did not like the NO dihedral in the wing. Here I took a couple of Wall Drill bits (about 1/4" but really long - over a foot) I marked where the center tube exited the fuselage on the pipe, then took some black tape and marked one of the bits so that it would just go in that deep. From the other side I inserted the other drill bit till it touched the first one. Using a vise I put a very slight bend, I would guess not more than a couple degrees. You cannot go too much and this process is very delicate. Use caution and do each side. When you do the opposite side its important that the drill bit isn't tight since it has to pass through the side that has the little bend. I actually think I used another Wall drill bit slightly smaller than the 1/4 inch (these are the long ones used to go through outside walls of your house that electricians use to pass wires from inside to out). At any rate, my Leader has some dihedral which greatly amplifies the built in stability. Notice also the addition of Tip plates. These have two functions. One aerodynamicists use them to reduce drag, but they found that a spin off was that they act like a wing that has increased dihedral without the physical bend. I made the initial maiden flight without them just because I had not finished the sanding and covering so they stayed on the bench for the first day. After adding them I could tell the difference in high G turns. I'm usually sloppy about adding rudder, (I think a lot of us are) but the addition of the tip plates makes turns like a Hockey player on clean ice.
These are all easy fixes to an already great flying plane, hope the group takes some of them up and reports their findings. If I do keep the second one I will be improving the rudder fin assembly. The fin needs to go to the end of the Fuselages, I would split the elevator, (probably increase the surface area when I replace it) but the rudder would come all the way down below the stab and I would add 3/4 " of sub fin. This should greatly enhance Knife edge, but I'm dreaming aloud here.
Anybody else tinker with improvements?
KKKKFL