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Old Dec 29, 2012, 12:54 PM
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the 7x5 e prop is just fine running the stock gear. i used it for many flights without issue. come to think of it,thats what i have on there now. the 7x5 makes the launch 100% easier. i would advise to not run wot for any more than 15/20 seconds at a time with that prop though as it does take the esc close to its limits. i have never had some much as warm battery/esc/motor running with that prop.

get a few though,as if you happen to land with the prop in the vert position,it will snap. you also need to ream out the prop to fit the shaft and you will need a washer or two to make it fit snug.

rrg....as said above,the rudders are not needed to fly this plane unless you want to perform some crazy moves. you will find the stryker a very nice plane to fly no matter how you fly it. the term 'on rails' really does apply with this one. enjoy it!
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Old Dec 29, 2012, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by splais View Post
Soundcheque, did you find that one or the other provide more power when on three cells between the sport and the electric. I love the 7x5e prop, can't believe anything could be better - but well, you know how that goes
sorry to jump in. i have run both and prefer the e prop. seem to get a bit more speed out of it i think.
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Old Dec 29, 2012, 03:24 PM
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I am not speaking from experience but rather from what I have read in this thread. Either sport or E is ok on 3 cells but when you step up to 4 cells, the E draws a bit too much power for the stock ESC. The sport is ok on 4 so they say.
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Old Dec 29, 2012, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by splais View Post
Soundcheque, did you find that one or the other provide more power when on three cells between the sport and the electric. I love the 7x5e prop, can't believe anything could be better - but well, you know how that goes

If anything I find the Eprop to be a tad more powerful, hence the comments in earlier posts that it draws more amps than the sport version.
I also figure that with the E prop, which is designed for electric flight, then go with that.

I only got the sport one as a result of this thread. Didn't seem to be as good as the E.

I'm currently using the E version and it provides plenty of power. I'll have to re-check the amps draw but I seem to remember 38 amps at WOT static testing which made me come to the conclusion that short bursts of WOT in flight would be OK.

Here's the spec on the ESC.
EFLA1040
Features
•Up to 40amp continuous current with proper air flow, with 55amp burst current (15 seconds)
•5volt switchmode BEC circuit capable of 2.5amp continuous current on any recommended input voltage
•Drive up to 7 analog or 6 digital standardsize servos with the BEC on any recommended input voltage
•3–6S LiPo, 9 to 18cell NiCd/NiMH input voltage
•Finned heat sinks
•Programmable motor braking
•Safe powerarm mode prevents accidental starts
•Programmable lowvoltage cutoff with settings for 3S LiPo (9V), 4cell LiPo (12V), 5cell LiPo (15V), 6cell LiPo (18V) or 70% of battery starting voltage
•Programmable soft start for helis and airplanes
•Auto motor shutdown if signal is lost or there is interference
•Programmable timing5 userselectable ranges for use with a large variety of brushless motors
•Programmable throttle input range (1.1–1.9 ms or 1.2–1.8 ms)
•Heli mode for starting the motor with a low speed ratio
•Utilizes new smaller MOSFET technology to save weight
•Radio system power on/off switch
•Prewired connectorsEfliteŽ EC3 connector on battery input and 3.5mm female gold bullets on motor output leads


So far, same as mrmurder1975 says ,no issues at all due to the 55amp burst capability.
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Old Dec 29, 2012, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by splais View Post
Missing something. Could someone tell me why some people are saying to use an apc sport prop instead of the "e" prop? Thanks.
The ENGINEERS @ apc have SCIENTIFICALLY designed a prop specific to electric motors. It is more efficient than the props designed for fuel engines. The sport props are beefier to withstand the vibrations generated by the internal combustion process. Yes, they are stronger but, the extra strength is being wasted in-flight unless you are running a very high power setup. It might be needed on a 2000+ watt set up. It would be like taking your h1 hummer a block away to buy some milk.

Why do people like using a nitro prop for a low powered e setup? Why do we see so many SUVs at the grocery store? Sure the SUV might be better in a crash but, you are more likely to get into a crash in the first place by driving the SUV

Remember that APC sells both the e and the sport props so they make money either way. But, the educated people at APC recommend the electric prop for electric motors. Also remember that APC came out with the e props AFTER they designed the sport props. The e props are a newer design that are OPTIMIZED for e power.

Look for yourself. APC publish scientific data for their props that were dyno tested in a wind tunnel. Not some sketchy doppler speed readouts that don't take into account basic parameters such as wind speed, humidity, and most importantly, the actual trajectory of the plane.

I'm not saying that you can't use a sport prop, just that you shouldn't if you care about efficiency.
Trying to tell a person that uses a sport prop to use an e prop can be like telling the pick-up/SUV drivers you see on the highway (99% of the which will just have an empty bed or never see a dirt road) that they should drive a prius
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Old Dec 29, 2012, 08:50 PM
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Thanks much
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Old Dec 29, 2012, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by soundcheque View Post
I'll have to re-check the amps draw but I seem to remember 38 amps at WOT static testing which made me come to the conclusion that short bursts of WOT in flight would be OK.
On 3 cells correct?
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Old Dec 29, 2012, 09:21 PM
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Yes on 3 S
I'm not able to check currently as I'm changing from Spektrum to Futaba and no radio gear in my stryker but I'm pretty sure it was 38 amps. I only ever use 3S ,, plenty of power there for my enjoyment.

I can check through my posts as I documented the readings so if it's different I can re-post.
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Old Dec 29, 2012, 09:23 PM
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Its been documented in this thread before on both 3 and 4 cells. Don't recall at the moment though.
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Old Dec 29, 2012, 09:40 PM
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Yep you're right jrjr.. I just had a search through the thread and found all sorts of info..

In retrospect I think I'm wrong as I've just seen 48amps on 3S with the 7x5E and 90amps on 4S.
(My 54 year old memory has started to fade I knew there was an 8 in my reading)

This would still have led me to go with the stock ESC as it's rated at 55amp bursts.

I think there are enough of us on this thread who use the 7x5E on the stock ESC and Motor with no probs so the newbies could definately go with the upgrade
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Old Dec 29, 2012, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcfisherman View Post
The ENGINEERS @ apc have SCIENTIFICALLY designed a prop specific to electric motors. It is more efficient than the props designed for fuel engines. The sport props are beefier to withstand the vibrations generated by the internal combustion process. Yes, they are stronger but, the extra strength is being wasted in-flight unless you are running a very high power setup. It might be needed on a 2000+ watt set up. It would be like taking your h1 hummer a block away to buy some milk.

Why do people like using a nitro prop for a low powered e setup? Why do we see so many SUVs at the grocery store? Sure the SUV might be better in a crash but, you are more likely to get into a crash in the first place by driving the SUV

Remember that APC sells both the e and the sport props so they make money either way. But, the educated people at APC recommend the electric prop for electric motors. Also remember that APC came out with the e props AFTER they designed the sport props. The e props are a newer design that are OPTIMIZED for e power.

Look for yourself. APC publish scientific data for their props that were dyno tested in a wind tunnel. Not some sketchy doppler speed readouts that don't take into account basic parameters such as wind speed, humidity, and most importantly, the actual trajectory of the plane.

I'm not saying that you can't use a sport prop, just that you shouldn't if you care about efficiency.
Trying to tell a person that uses a sport prop to use an e prop can be like telling the pick-up/SUV drivers you see on the highway (99% of the which will just have an empty bed or never see a dirt road) that they should drive a prius
Excellent info and an answer to the question.
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Old Dec 29, 2012, 10:02 PM
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Mine draws 44amps on stock setup and apc 7x5e at wot on the ground.
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Old Dec 29, 2012, 10:20 PM
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Yep that confirms my original readout of 48 and NOT 38, sorry chaps.
You'll be fine with that at WOT as it will unload the amps in flight.

The spec on the ESC is 55 amp bursts
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Old Dec 30, 2012, 07:59 AM
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My stock esc failed after only few flights but I had a few really hard smacks into the ground and a couple of accidental full throttle runs without prop. Don't know if those things contributed or not. Now I'm flying it on an old Squall HP 45amp esc I had and she's doing fine. The yellowjacket paint job is really impressive in the air by the way . One of these days I'm going to buy a new fuselage and do a nice paint job. I emailed parkzone to see if there is any way to get an unpainted fuselage but haven't heard back yet. Yesterday I actually did a climbing inverted flap spin. This plane is sooooo much fun!
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Old Dec 30, 2012, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by soundcheque View Post
Yep that confirms my original readout of 48 and NOT 38, sorry chaps.
You'll be fine with that at WOT as it will unload the amps in flight.

The spec on the ESC is 55 amp bursts
I don't fly at WOT all the time. I will do some stunts, some low slow passes and then a diving high speed low run down the runway. So, its about 5 seconds or so at WOT then a cool down period. Point is that it's not all wot throttle so the system gets a chance to disperse heat although if you keep it under 50A you can do WOT all the time I guess. The system should take it ok depending on your battery.

My favorite is to do a blistering low run down the runway to about the middle then pull elevator and fly straight up and into a boomerang then into an elevator then add power and fly away close to the ground. The crowd gives lots of OOO's and WOW's! LOL

I actually swaped out my esc for a 70A Ice for 4s future use but never have done it. I inadvertently swapped polarity on my Radian Pro and smoked the esc so I used the F27Q esc in that and got the Ice. Seemed like a good excuse to me!

I plan to try 4S this summer though... should be fun!
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