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Old Jul 03, 2011, 10:58 PM
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alucard0822's Avatar
Pennsylvania
Joined Jun 2010
907 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by gr8taz nitro View Post
Has anybody ever tried the graupner cam speed props? I've found a 6x6 prop in stock online but at almost $7 plus shipping I'm looking for some more info on how it performed.
I've been running a Graupner 6.5X6.5 still under 50A static, but outperformed the stock prop by a decent margin in thrust(vertical) and top speed. Posted a video with some speed runs, turned out the first three were actually 8mph faster and over 100, last speed run seems to have not measured correctly, and it was from a dive, so it was faster, but I'm not sure how much faster, thanks to CHbucher for the info, and running it through a better doppler program. It might be pricey, but it is worth every penny, best prop out of a half dozen I have tried.
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Old Jul 04, 2011, 12:31 AM
Victim of C.D.O.
murdnunoc's Avatar
United States, TX, Lubbock
Joined Oct 2007
4,081 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by gr8taz nitro View Post
Has anybody ever tried the graupner cam speed props? I've found a 6x6 prop in stock online but at almost $7 plus shipping I'm looking for some more info on how it performed.
They are GREAT props.
I've run the 6x6 Cam Speed in both Strykers and wings with very efficient results. IMO it's the best straight line drag race prop in Strykers up to 130mph.

They're worth it.
Be nice to them, though, as their efficiency comes from being thin and they are not tough when it comes to being whacked.
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Old Jul 04, 2011, 12:33 AM
Victim of C.D.O.
murdnunoc's Avatar
United States, TX, Lubbock
Joined Oct 2007
4,081 Posts
Alucard,
Keep in mind that the 6.5x6.5 prop you're running is the regular Speed series, and different than the Cam speed props.

They have very different shapes, and different performances.
Wish I could find a Cam Speed 7x7.

Try an APC Pylon 6.5x6.5
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Old Jul 04, 2011, 04:44 AM
Rc Fan From Belgium
Belgium, Flanders, Antwerp
Joined Feb 2011
381 Posts
I have about 15 flights now with the stryker and its amazing for me everytime.
Im not used to delta wings and there speed as i usually only fly warbirds.
But boy this thing is fun fun fun.
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Old Jul 04, 2011, 08:17 AM
J. Titors Gr Gr Grandpappy
Sonofagun's Avatar
Charlotte,NC
Joined May 2005
1,995 Posts
Right elevon pulled out during flight....DOH!. Totaled airframe...Checked before every flight, thought it was secure. Do not neglect this mod...
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Old Jul 04, 2011, 08:36 AM
Registered User
Joined May 2007
30 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonofagun View Post
Right elevon pulled out during flight....DOH!. Totaled airframe...Checked before every flight, thought it was secure. Do not neglect this mod...
Sorry to hear that SONOFAGUN. This problem has been posted a couple of times. My left elevon control horn came loose during flight, but I was able to land it safely. I suggest that everyone check the elevon control horns because they're only held on with glue. On top of a painted surface, no less.
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Last edited by llcoolg; Jul 04, 2011 at 08:47 AM.
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Old Jul 04, 2011, 08:53 AM
Advocating for RC Aviation
USA, NJ, Phillipsburg
Joined Jul 2010
1,390 Posts
My right elevon pushrod came out of the clevis on the bench while setting up high rate throws. Having read about this here I was not surprised and fixed with epoxy. Also took the time to add control horn backplates to the elevons before maiden. First flight went ok.
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Old Jul 04, 2011, 09:25 AM
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gatorb8's Avatar
United States, FL, Gulf Breeze
Joined Apr 2008
2,620 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonofagun View Post
Right elevon pulled out during flight....DOH!. Totaled airframe...Checked before every flight, thought it was secure. Do not neglect this mod...
dat SUX!
it's looking like the quality of components is not up to the performance of the Stryker Q..............I'm sure mine is not far behind yours........
backplated my AIL horns but now think I need to change out clevis's....
also did some hot glue (like you showed me) AIL hinge beefing
if a servo goes I'm gonna stomp this thing!

I was removing one of the allen screws on the outrunner can and it broke off in the thread........I was hoping to find a different prop adapter that would fit thinner props....didn't know it would come off without removing allen screws....hopefully 1 is enough for a pusher.....
anyway......you gonna rebuild?
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Old Jul 04, 2011, 11:06 AM
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AeroControl's Avatar
Grand Rapids, MI
Joined Mar 2008
173 Posts
Maiden report

Quote:
Originally Posted by llcoolg View Post
Here's the easiest and safest way to hand launch it. I gave it about 3/4 throttle.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ebSlnlK8V5U
Great launch technique ... will try it next time out.

Maidened my F-27Q this morning and had 2 good flights (only have two batteries so far). I got the PNP version and did the mods suggested in this thread before flight (CAs'd the vertical rudders and strengthened the elevon horn attachment by putting screws through to a backplate). I used my existing G-Force 25C 2200 mAH 3S batteries and AR6100e RX. Before flight I did a range check and had great signal at > 1200 ft line-of-sight.

As others have reported, I had some trouble hand launching and ended up nosing in 3 times before I had my wife throw it while I goosed at as soon as she let it go and that worked. Just not quick enough getting my hands on the sticks before it hits the ground when I throw it. Next time I am going to try the technique shown by llcoolg (link above). I ended up bending my propeller from the 3 failed launches but was able to bend it back pretty close (need more spare propellers). I liked how well it tracks and goes straight up so easy. It does feel a little nose heavy so I might look into what I can do to bring the cg back. I already have the rx, esc, and battery jammed as far back as I can without modifying the foam (any suggestions?). I had a good landing on the first one and dipped my wing a little on the second one and cartwheeled a bit. Nose popped off and broke off a small tip from the right elevon (easy repair), but other than that, no real damage. Spent some time messing with the low and high rates and trim. My low rates were as specified, but I still need to add more throw to the high rates. I think it says you may need to attach the clevis to a lower hole on the horn to achieve the high rate throws.

Lots of fun and fast I beat it up a bit more than I expected on the maiden. I need to get better at launching and landing so the fuse lasts a long time.
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Old Jul 04, 2011, 11:28 AM
Registered User
United States, WI, Milwaukee
Joined Sep 2008
793 Posts
Quick question. Will this foam tolerate standard CA, or does it need to be foam safe CA?

Thanks,

Mike
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Old Jul 04, 2011, 12:01 PM
Bagpipes spoken here
Pipemajor's Avatar
United States, MN, St Paul
Joined Aug 2007
113 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brownie433 View Post
Quick question. Will this foam tolerate standard CA, or does it need to be foam safe CA?

Thanks,

Mike
Regular CA won't attack the foam used on the F-27Q. They caution you NOT to use CA kicker.
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Old Jul 04, 2011, 12:01 PM
Rocket geek
Highlands Ranch, CO
Joined Dec 2007
651 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brownie433 View Post
Quick question. Will this foam tolerate standard CA, or does it need to be foam safe CA?

Thanks,

Mike
It will tolerate regular CA, but do try the white Gorilla Glue instead. The foaming, gap-filling actions is great. My Radian fuse has broken many times, but never at a Gorilla glue joint.
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Old Jul 04, 2011, 12:20 PM
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AeroControl's Avatar
Grand Rapids, MI
Joined Mar 2008
173 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pipemajor View Post
Regular CA won't attack the foam used on the F-27Q. They caution you NOT to use CA kicker.
I think you can use kicker, it just says to let it evaporate and not wipe it so not to smear the paint
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Old Jul 04, 2011, 12:35 PM
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alucard0822's Avatar
Pennsylvania
Joined Jun 2010
907 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pipemajor View Post
Regular CA won't attack the foam used on the F-27Q. They caution you NOT to use CA kicker.
Kicker works, and being that foam has no moisture, and is not porus it is important to properly cure the CA, without it, the CA can remain wet for minutes after joining the peices, and make a weak joint, on balsa it isn't as big of a deal, and will cure better without kicker. CA cures just about instantly with kicker, and gets hot, so you want to make sure the peices fit perfectly, and you can push them together in correct alignment, you won't be able to slide them around to fit them better, and you have all of 10 seconds to remove excess beore it hardens completely. For small or thin peices, just apply CA, stick them together, then spray a little kicker on the outside, it will work about 1/4" into the joint to cure it. On larger peices spray kicker on one side, let it dry almost completely, put plenty of CA n the other side, and press them together in correct aligment and hold some pressure for about 15 seconds, after that, it is basically good to go. It will soften paint, it's OK to spray a painted peice, but if you touch the painted part, the paint will smear off of it, and look like crap, unless of course you are trying to remove paint, if so kicker works well, if not, just let it dry completely, and the paint hardens back just fine.
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Old Jul 04, 2011, 12:46 PM
Fly it like you stole it!
chevypower1930's Avatar
USA, NC, Raleigh
Joined Jun 2009
832 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by noobiznessflying View Post
Here's one my first few attempts at hand launching with no power.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8lXM0i7yqHA
You don't need to throw it that hard man haha , Just a gentle toss at about 30 degrees
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