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Old Jul 03, 2011, 04:56 AM
KJ4WFG
modbuilder's Avatar
United States, SC, York
Joined Dec 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GarethE View Post
I'm keen to know the weight of the stock LiPo for the F-27Q, that's the green PKZ1029. I know the dimensions from the Parkzone site but the weight seems to be a be of a secret. I can then select my first battery to try with this model.
Check post #1277
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Old Jul 03, 2011, 05:23 AM
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London, UK
Joined Mar 2010
249 Posts
few more batteries this morning, loving this plane
had an incident on the last battery, the launch didn't go according to plan, but just landed on the floor (don't think i was quick enough on the right stick), fortunately no damage.
as a result, i was expecting the prop to be broken, as it landed with power on. however, to my surprise the whole collet, adaptor with the propellor all in one bit came off all together from the shaft, leaving the motor intact.

i had checked this the night before, and was on quite snug, any idea what would have caused this?
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Old Jul 03, 2011, 06:22 AM
LiPo-Sucker & Airframe EMT
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Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
Joined Aug 2010
3,614 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by GarethE View Post
I'm keen to know the weight of the stock LiPo for the F-27Q, that's the green PKZ1029. I know the dimensions from the Parkzone site but the weight seems to be a be of a secret. I can then select my first battery to try with this model.
On my scale, it's 6.5 ounces / 184 grams

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Old Jul 03, 2011, 06:44 AM
Advocating for RC Aviation
USA, NJ, Phillipsburg
Joined Jul 2010
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Originally Posted by alucard0822 View Post
Also ran into a new problem to add to the list. Started as an odd instability at slow speed and when doing aerobatics, ended up being a loud flutter at speeds over about 50mph. Turned out the right side rudder horn chewed up the foam, and was loose, making the rudder flop around easily, and giving poor control of the surface. I pulled the horns off, used some thin CA to fill in where the foam started to tear around the horn mount, then added some epoxy, set the horn in it, and spread the bead around the top edges of the horn to support the surface. I've been doing a lot of hard spins and dialing in a good knife edge mix so it has been stressing it(5-10% opposite aileron, 5-10% down elevator, right rudder KE and left rudder KE are a bit different)

So far for those new to the plane and thread.

1. Elevon horns glued over paint, they can and have caused crashes, rip them out, epoxy them in, add backing plates for a bit of extra security.

2. Servos are weak, the geartrains are easily bent, and they strip. Mine started stripping on the first flight, lasted 3 before it was bad enough to replace. They are a hair smaller than the more powerful, and more reliable HS-85MG, use the short dubro super strength arm set, longest one is as long as stock, this is a far beefier setup, just as precise, a hair quicker. They require 3" extensions.

3. Airbrakes, rudders both turning outwards provides a brake, not exactly throwing out the anchor, but they do slow downlines, and help with landing. The rudder servos need to be in separate channels on the RX, this requires 3" extensions. plug the right side into rudder, left into aux1(flap). Mix rudder to flap with trim on at 100% both directions so both work as rudders. Mix flap to rudder at 100% to make them work as flaps. I use 50% mid flaps without elevator compensation, 100% with 5% down elevator. You may need to reverse channels, or use -100% in the mixes to get them to move the right way.

4. Haven't had it happen to me, but a few have had the elevon clevices strip over the threaded rods and come loose. A couple drops of CA on the ends of the rids that come through the clevices with kicker can be some cheap insurance, or you can replace them with aftermarket rods.

5. The elevons and rudders flex, doesn't seem to do much other than make handling a hair sloppier. I used .5X3mm flat carbon on the trailing edges, lued down with CA, then I wrapped packing tape over the trailing edges, no flex, more precise rolls and handling, not by a lot, but enough to justify $5 and 10 minutes.

6. rudder horns chewing up the foam, explained above.
Thanks for the recap: this list is terrific as this thread has gotten really long!

I maidened my Q yesterday after adding performing 1 & 4 above. Only had time for one trim flight with a buddy launch. Needed lots of up and right aileron trim stock. Flew fine. My first Stryker so I took it easy and I want to work ou any glitches out before I get too crazy with all that EPP-Z LOL! Good Flying! Dana
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Last edited by danamania; Jul 03, 2011 at 06:45 AM. Reason: Tuypo
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Old Jul 03, 2011, 07:29 AM
Way to many airplanes!
Canada, QC
Joined Oct 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alucard0822 View Post
New video, speed passes with the Graupner 6.5X6.5, and a few spins. I can get it spinning OK, but not sure how a few others (warderseeker on youtube) get the insane boomerang looking spins about twice as fast. I push the left stick to the lower left, right stick to upper right, and it gets to spin pretty good, and I can get it a little faster by moving the right stick to the center slowly, adding power, and bumping the rudder the other way halts the spin in it's tracks.
Wow, even doing a spinning elevator landing! Nice video. What do you use to announce the speed like that?
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Old Jul 03, 2011, 10:35 AM
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Lewisville, TX
Joined Sep 2010
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Originally Posted by RealGambler View Post
Wow, even doing a spinning elevator landing! Nice video. What do you use to announce the speed like that?
It's an Iphone and Android app call RC Speedo.
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Old Jul 03, 2011, 11:29 AM
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New Bern, North Carolina, United States
Joined Oct 2004
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OK, I can do the parachute but the nose seems to fall out on her after a few feet so the nose cone pops off on impact. What is everyone doing to keep the nose up and keep her flat during the drop?

I put 4 ore flights on her today and puffed an old XPS 20c 3s 2200 lipo... I swear I tried to take it easy on her knowing she was only 20c but my darn left thumb just wouldnt ease up on the left stick. LOL
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Old Jul 03, 2011, 12:24 PM
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Pennsylvania
Joined Jun 2010
906 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RealGambler View Post
Wow, even doing a spinning elevator landing! Nice video. What do you use to announce the speed like that?
RCspeedo app and HTC EVO in my shirt pocket, microphone up. Thanks for the compliment, at least now the flat spin landings are intentional, at first they weren't


Quote:
Originally Posted by ATIS View Post
OK, I can do the parachute but the nose seems to fall out on her after a few feet so the nose cone pops off on impact. What is everyone doing to keep the nose up and keep her flat during the drop?

I put 4 ore flights on her today and puffed an old XPS 20c 3s 2200 lipo... I swear I tried to take it easy on her knowing she was only 20c but my darn left thumb just wouldnt ease up on the left stick. LOL
35mm or better of elevator throw, and CG in the middle of the hand grip pocket(CG makes a big difference in elevators), hold full up elevator, and ride it down, if the nose drops a small puff of 1/4 throttle will being it back up, make sure if you have a rudder brake it is off, that will pitch the nose down too.
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Old Jul 03, 2011, 12:25 PM
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Canada
Joined Aug 2009
21,028 Posts
Mine Lost bind today for some reason - must have hit bind switch by accident yesterday on dx6i

Rebound today and she flew great

Had her up in the air with a Bunch of nitros at club field

I needed a spotter as she covers ground fast lol
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Old Jul 03, 2011, 12:52 PM
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Grand Rapids, MI
Joined Mar 2008
173 Posts
Air brakes using DX6i

Quote:
Originally Posted by pugsam View Post
Has anyone figured out how to setup F-27Q air brakes on the DX6i?

If so, could you share the how-to?


This was asked much earlier in this thread, but I haven't seen an answer.

I've been doing an imitation Su-27 cobra manuever to loose speed on final approach, but air brakes would be sweet!

I have my right rudder connected to the RUDD plug on RX and the left rudder to the AUX1 (or flap) plug. On the DX6i, I use 2 mixes. The first mix is setup to mix RUDD to FLAP at +100 on both the UP and DN settings (with trim active) so that the left rudder moves the same direction as the right rudder (normal flight). On MIX2, I have the same mix RUDD to FLAP, but at -100 on both UP and DN settings so that the left rudder moves opposite to the right rudder and I get both rudders inboard for a left rudder and both rudders outboard for a right rudder (airbrakes). I have not flown this yet, just tested it on my bench. I have MIX1 and MIX2 hooked to different switches and only plan to use one at a time. Not sure if this is what others have done?
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Old Jul 03, 2011, 02:22 PM
Fly more, bitch less.
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United States, CA, Arcadia
Joined Nov 2010
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Here's one my first few attempts at hand launching with no power.

F27Q bad hand launch (0 min 15 sec)
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Old Jul 03, 2011, 03:09 PM
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Lewisville, TX
Joined Sep 2010
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LOL...thank you for having the courage to post that video. Hopefully from now on you will launch it over some grass It looks like there was no wind at the time? That thing took a crazy twist as it left you hand. IMO, the running start was the issue. It's harder to keep the plane nice and level when you are running/skipping at launch. Try to just take one step and you more of your arm strength and focus on releasing the plane level. Keep practicing, it will get better.
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Old Jul 03, 2011, 03:13 PM
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Raleigh, NC
Joined Sep 2004
2,620 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by alucard0822 View Post
New video, speed passes with the Graupner 6.5X6.5, and a few spins. I can get it spinning OK, but not sure how a few others (warderseeker on youtube) get the insane boomerang looking spins about twice as fast. I push the left stick to the lower left, right stick to upper right, and it gets to spin pretty good, and I can get it a little faster by moving the right stick to the center slowly, adding power, and bumping the rudder the other way halts the spin in it's tracks.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tuKMUxPF52c
I ran Wave-O-Scope against your video.

1st pass: RCSpeedo said: 95.6, Waveoscope said: 103.5
2nd pass: RCSpeedo said: 91.9 Waveoscope said: 100.7
3rd pass: RCSpeedo said: 101.9 Waveoscope said: 107.1
4th pass: RCSpeedo said: 123.8 Waveoscope said: 130.1

However, the last pass does not count... Not only was it a dive but you let up on the throttle which made the reading artifically high. Something RCSpeedo can't show you but on Waveoscope you can see that the curve has a bend in it where you slowed down...

Basically I think Waveoscope has been verified many times with Radar so from what I posted earlier and now your video - it looks like RCSpeedo consistently reports speeds that are about 8 mph slower than it really is...
That means you were going even faster than you thought!

(I assumed 75 degrees F)
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Old Jul 03, 2011, 03:23 PM
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Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sickwitit View Post
Which Tx/Rx are you using? Maybe you need to re-calibrate it to your ESC, because maybe its not giving true full throttle right now. With my 3s 2200 35C nano techs I'm getting around 42A at WOT. So your amps should be much higher for sure.
I did some testing with the stock ESC from the F27Q in my F27C setup and I got 12a less with it when keeping everything else identical.

So the issue is definitely with my ESC.

I thought this ESC has self-calibrating endpoints - I cannot see how to manually calibrate it with my TX (DX6i)

Anyone have any ideas or is my ESC a dud?
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Old Jul 03, 2011, 03:26 PM
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United States, OK, Lawton
Joined Jun 2010
239 Posts
Took the radar gun to the field with the sole intention of getting the highest speed we could with the stryker and funjet ultra. We were doing as hard of dives as we could going with the wind that was at the field(5-10mph)... Got the Q to clock 112mph max and the FJU to hit 137mph max. Fun stuff!
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