|Mar 31, 2011, 05:21 AM|
I began to build SDM at last.
I apologize to you first.
My English is no good.
An error and not understanding should point out to me.
It is beneficial to me.
2008 and I were shocked seeing this thread.
At the time, I completed the Royal Navy destroyer HMS ONSLOW and was looking for the next ship . I got interested in TOWBOAT and was collecting the data. I met with springer then. I understood the charm of the boat immediately.
And I got to know this thread, while making the preparations which build springer. I was surprised. I did not know such a ship. And it was impressed by skillful construction of UMI. I thought that I would like to build SDM in the future.
2010 was Springer's year for me. It was the first Springer in my country, as I get to know. I built 2 springers last year.
2011 is a year of my SDM.
I collected the data of SDM anew. I was very glad when the card model of SDM was found.
It abolishes the time and effort which draws a drawing. However, I was not able to download it. The Model Preview was difficult to be too small and to expand.
I observed the rubber fender. I thought that manufacture of that was difficult. Although various examples were seen, it is a skill which I cannot do. UMI made the wonderful cast model.
I made it as an experiment by the sheet and protective layer of rubber. It seemed that it is good to use soft CA for them.
I stuck what was made as an experiment on the pen stand, and looked at the situation. Another piece was stuck on my springer to test.
It seems that it was successful.
|Mar 31, 2011, 06:59 PM|
I look forward to seeing the construction of your new boat and am
happy to help where ever I can.
SDM Tug ship docking module rc schlepper remorker remorquer
|Apr 01, 2011, 02:55 AM|
It moved forward little by little.
Thank you UMI.
I placed an order for two Schottel drives in January. It was very expensive. It was the same price as FUTABA 2.4 GHz 6Ch transmitter and receiver .
I was disappointed at the delivered articles. It was too poor and the rotation was not smooth. I tried to decompose it. The gear was not able to be removed even if it removed the circlip. It was unavoidable and I made gearpuller. The cause was a swelling around the slot on the circlip, and the hole of cross-pin. I finished that with the small file. That of the cross-pin is uncertain. It is too small as important parts of a schottel drive.
Although I trusted and respected Germans ..... I have understood the dissatisfaction of Toesup. The same thing could be made from 1/10 of prices, if it is a Chinese. Our country will build a better thing at a price of a half. However, in our country, a scale boat is a minority group. Probably, neither KYOSYO nor TAMIYA shows it interest.
Having obtained the schottel drive meant that I had to build SDM.
And I decided to build Salvador Dali. The size is 1/48 like UMI. 570 mm in length, and 32 mm in width
I printed out those pictures in big size (A3). I got to know that SDM was large, seeing a drawing. Although I considered only a length of 570 mm, the width which is 320 mm is very large. Therefore, I decided to build superstructure first.
I started work in February. I built the most troublesome pilothouse.
I built a prototype with the cardboard, in order to see a situation. It was a very good impression. And I assembled it by being made from a 1.2-mm styrene board.It was hard work to cut off 40 or more windows. I have noticed that a hull is required in order to know the whole impression. Next, I began to build a hull. I examined three kinds of how of the hull to build.
(1) UMI built it with the block of foam.
(2) Other methods stick a board on a keel and a frame like an ordinary model ship.
(3) And it is the way of building the frame like radiately.
I thought that the method of UMI was suitable. However, I did not have the experience using a foam. The simple hull of SDM is suitable for first building with a foam .
The 2nd problem of the hull was skeg. UMI was attached easily later. It is work difficult for me. If I do it, a skeg will not cling correctly. Other two persons made one piece the frame and the skeg . It is interfered with it when building a hull. I faced the difficult problem.
I drew the conclusion, after thinking hard.
I decided to build a hull with a foam. I noted that the ship's bottom of SDM was a simple curved surface. The method which I considered builds the guide of a foam cutter (hot saw) with plywood at the place of edge, and cuts it along with it. The skeg is built with the keel , and is separated before an assembly.
I thought that it was the method of building easily even if this does not have a good skill.
|Apr 08, 2011, 03:26 AM|
I made the parts of the hull from plywood (4 mm and 6 mm).
I have made the same thing before. It is a tool which cooks pizza.
It was easy to build a hull.
The hot saw uses two batteries although it was almost a toy, it worked well.
I coated the surface of the hull with two layers glass cloth .
|Apr 09, 2011, 11:59 AM|
Hmm? theres something strange om your deck... some kind of fungus???
Loves your build.
Il bet you got the graupner Schottel drive.
Aeronaut builds them too.
Werry expensive but made of brass.
|Apr 14, 2011, 05:22 AM|
I tried to post of my SDM to UMI's thread. However, since time passed too much, it was refused. I contributed this build log newly.
I did not change the first portion of the text at that time. Since I was fighting with poor English, I forgot it.
Sharky1dk, thank you. I think that the drive of Aeronaut is wonderful.
The 500 euros are too expensive for me.
I put the motor and the drive on the interior of a ship. Inboard width was narrow. Since the width of SDM was wide, I did not pay attention at all. I thought that I had to cut off a wall. And the good thing was thought of. I contracted the joints.
I built the deckhouse after completion of a hull. I built the pilothouse with the styrene board, and built the deckhouse with 2-mm plywood.
|Apr 23, 2011, 05:25 AM|
I cut off the portion of the deckhouse of a deck.
Next, motor mount was made. I always use L channel material of aluminum. I made the hole for cooling according to the vent of the front of a motor. The effect is ?.
I installed the schottel drive and moved by 3V. The noise surprised me.
I cannot imagine sound when two sets are moved at 7.2 v.
|May 10, 2011, 04:27 AM|
I painted the hull by the white primer. I started work of the bulwark. I expanded and printed the paper model. The picture of the basis was too small, and when expanded, 1 pixel became about 2x2 mm. It was useful for cutting out the paper pattern. I thought that it was easy work. However, bulwarks made of plywood inclined too much. And I remade the paper pattern repeatedly. I have got bored with the work.
I decided to make the fire monitor, in order to convert feeling. I got the the spray pump for home gardening. It is a cheap thing which operates by 6V. I decided to exchange the motor. I tried the motor of Dickie first. It was too powerless. I installed the powerful mabuchi hyper 400. The result with 9.6V was very good. The pump was set to the small box with the microswitch
I wanted to make the fire monitor which spouts a lot of spray.
|May 10, 2011, 01:32 PM|
上 田 さん,
The hull looks very crisp, and sharp.
One thing to consider, is putting the holes through the skegs.
I would like to retro fit mine and add the holes. It appears that
these holes will help steering. When you turn the drives toward the
skeg to turn, the prop wash hits the skeg and redirects the thrust
along the center line of the boat. When you add more rotation to the drive
to increase the turn rate, the drive suddenly thrust across the front of the
skeg, and spins the boat.
I do a lot of open water driving using just the leading drive, as it has a clear
field of thrust under the boat, and steers a little easier.
|May 10, 2011, 11:59 PM|
I think that your indication is right. I was also anxious about it.
In the first plan, the hole was open to the skeg. But since I liked the skeg without a hole, I made it. From now on, I will put the holes.
It is fortunate for me.
Because, I tried to do the work of the bulwark today. That work was postponed by this. I suffer from the bulwark phobia now.
I tested some fire monitors' nozzles last week. What inserted seven 1x0.6-mm tubes in a 5-mm tube was the best.
It discharges seven sprays in 4-5-meter distance.
|May 12, 2011, 05:36 AM|
I made the holes in the skegs. I made thickly, in order to make the skegs strong. Therefore, work was hard. I made the streamline to the holes front and the back.
And I noticed. It is inefficient.
The prop wash acts only on one side.
I remade the holes aslant. Water will pass better. Probably.
|May 29, 2011, 04:17 AM|
I made many bulwarks as an experiment. And it was completed at last. I cut the scupper holes to the bulwark with the small knife for wood carving . I painted in coffee Brown lacquer below the waterline. The hull was a bright orange of TAMIYA. When I attached the bulwark, SDM appeared there.
|Category||Thread||Thread Starter||Forum||Replies||Last Post|
|Discussion||VQ P-39 Build - Avoid this kit at ALL costs. See last post.||Evil_Merlin||Fuel Warbirds||52||Oct 06, 2014 06:32 PM|
|Build Log||At Last, T-Rex 600CF Build Thread||Steph280||Electric Heli Talk||160||Jul 29, 2009 09:11 PM|
|Discussion||Free at Last, Free at last!!!||Scrat||Coaxial Helicopters||4||Aug 31, 2007 01:11 PM|
|Discussion||A fuzzy glimpse at where this revolution began||Draganfly||Batteries and Chargers||1||Jun 06, 2007 04:06 PM|
|Discussion||Construction began at flying site||Eric_N57105||Club Talk||7||Dec 12, 2006 01:56 PM|