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Old Sep 30, 2011, 09:40 AM
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Panama
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Yup, my bandit has always been flown on the Spektrum AR6210, first with the DX8 and now i switched to the JR 11x. It is a perfect receiver for it.

DemonGTI, nice job on the build!!!! keep on sharing the pics with us
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Old Sep 30, 2011, 10:15 AM
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Bridgeton, NJ
Joined Mar 2009
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Yea, I've never had a bit of problem with any receiver in a PA plane. I just wanted to stress not to do something like tape the antenna to the plane right over carbon. That's why I stressed to keep the antennas away from the carbon.

Use common sense and your good to go.
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Old Sep 30, 2011, 11:55 AM
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Just as an FYI... do not use an Orange receiver with a PA plane (single antenna).

I put one in my Addiction with the plan to only fly it close and not have to worry about range, but one day I was flying alone at the field and within minutes the flight was full of pilots and I ended up flying farther away from myself without thinking about it and lost control at about 300 feet away. Luckily it came down in tall grass with minimal damage (broken motor box and cowl).
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Old Sep 30, 2011, 12:33 PM
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Java, I would go so far as to recommend not using those rx's in anything other than a combat foamy. While several people swear by them, I have found the quality control in manufacturing these orange rx's are so inconsistent that range varies from rx to rx. Some of those rxs can go as far as my brand name rx's but most of them drop the signal past only several hundred feet.

There are several side-by-side comparisons on Youtube that demonstrate the poor range of the Orange.

While we all said the same thing about HK batteries several years ago, "I am not going to risk my plane with a $10 battery..." now Turnigey has quickly become a standard and a huge competitor for Thunder Power for batteries.

However, I still wont trust my plane with a $5.99 orange rx; I have seen too many reports of failure for me to be comfortable using them, especially on high-dollar models... Just my $0.02
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Old Sep 30, 2011, 12:43 PM
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bsbauman,

That is exactly what I learned and am trying to help others with. Even though i wasn't planning on flying outside the box, it happened and I got bit. I now only use them in home-made foamies.
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Old Sep 30, 2011, 02:25 PM
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Lafayette, Louisiana
Joined Dec 2005
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Question... In this video: It says 4 Cell.... What mah size and c rating? or just the mah?
Thanks!!

PA Bandit 4S iPAs Xtreme setup maiden flights, flown by Daniel Dominguez (6 min 28 sec)
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Old Sep 30, 2011, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javabeans View Post
bsbauman,

That is exactly what I learned and am trying to help others with. Even though i wasn't planning on flying outside the box, it happened and I got bit. I now only use them in home-made foamies.
Dont you hate learning the hard way

Like when I found out CA Debonder will not work on a clear plastic canopy... Doh! It results in a nasty looking, irremovable fog.
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Old Sep 30, 2011, 03:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonathan7x70 View Post
Question... In this video: It says 4 Cell.... What mah size and c rating? or just the mah?
Thanks!!

http://vimeo.com/28627649
Hi Jonathan, its a PA 14.8v 2200 mah 20-40c they are available at the PA website.
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 08:41 AM
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South Africa, GP, Randburg
Joined Dec 2006
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Installing servos

Here are a few pic of installing the aileron servos.
I first cut the covering and ironed the overlap into the servo bay.
Centre the servo in the bay and carefully drill one hole with a 1.5mm bit using the grommet as a guide. Lightly screw down that side and drill the second hole and tap in the second screw.
Remove the screws and servo and wick a small droop of CA into the holes to harden the freshly tapped threads. ( i turn a screw in before the CA sets to make sure the hole does not get clogged with CA )
Fit servos.
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 12:44 PM
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South Africa, GP, Randburg
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All my linkages are made up now.
I epoxy the ball link side first since this end is a tight fit.
Roughen the tab on control horns and make sure the horn is aligned properly before you epoxy it in place. Then get the clevis fitting nicely onto the CF control horn. Tape the control surface in its neutral position. Shorten the CF rod as required to get the hole in the ball link to line up with the servo CF control horn. Obviously make sure you servos are centred before you epoxy the clevis to the CF rod and don't forget to notch both ends of the CF rods so the epoxy has an irregular surface to bite onto. Lastly use a "permanent" thread lock on the exposed threads on all the linkages. The last thing anyone needs is a nut working loose....
Job done, all control surfaces operational
Next up is VG's and decals
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 03:20 PM
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United States, FL, Tampa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by demonGti View Post
All my linkages are made up now.
I epoxy the ball link side first since this end is a tight fit.
Roughen the tab on control horns and make sure the horn is aligned properly before you epoxy it in place. Then get the clevis fitting nicely onto the CF control horn. Tape the control surface in its neutral position. Shorten the CF rod as required to get the hole in the ball link to line up with the servo CF control horn. Obviously make sure you servos are centred before you epoxy the clevis to the CF rod and don't forget to notch both ends of the CF rods so the epoxy has an irregular surface to bite onto. Lastly use a "permanent" thread lock on the exposed threads on all the linkages. The last thing anyone needs is a nut working loose....
Job done, all control surfaces operational
Next up is VG's and decals
Niiiice!
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 05:50 PM
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Australia, VIC, Sale
Joined Oct 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by demonGti View Post
Some more pics of my Bandit build. These are of making up the extended servo leads. I tinned the stripped wire ends first before I soldered them together. This makes the join quick and does not expose the wire insulation to too much heat from the soldering iron.

dG
Top work with the build pictures demonGti.

I though I might add some pictures of my method of actually connecting the wires together when soldering the extensions.


1) Strip the insulation off the wire.
2) "Tin" the wire with solder and put the heat shrink on.
3) Put a hook in the wire and hook the wires to each other.
4) Squeeze the wires together
5) Put a little bit of solder on the joint to mold the wires together
6) Shrink the heat shrink.

And repeat for all the wires.
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 06:21 PM
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I cut the holes in the covering for the VG's as per the manual. Just one of the underside small VG slots I couldn't see ( covered by the white stripe ) but with an LED light from the other side in the dark I could make out where they were. Nearly ready now for maiden tomorrow morning
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 06:23 PM
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Videos ladies
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 06:43 PM
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South Africa, GP, Randburg
Joined Dec 2006
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That's a very secure technique Dave

My Bandit is ready!
In Mr.K's words; Is it tomorrow yet, Is it tomorrow yet, Is it tomorrow yet, Is it tomorrow yet, Is it tomorrow yet, Is it tomorrow yet?!?!
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