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Old Dec 14, 2012, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by pilot_keeter View Post
hmm. The issue that another Bandit owner had (and the reason why I moved to outer for ailerons) was the ball link end hitting the end of the plastic arm when in the inner hole. It didn't have free travel all the way.

Look at my post #2667 and the replies after and see what you think.
You could easily solve that by cutting away the plastic servo horn outwards of where the carbon arm is screwed on - the plastic there is not doing anything useful. Looking at your photos, even just trimming thru the middle of the outboard hole of the original servo arm should give plenty of room for the ball joint on the inner hole of the carbon arm.

I have my PA carbon arm screwed onto a round disk that is only just big enough to hold the carbon arm, ie its radius is only about 1mm more than from the centre of the PA arm to its mounting screw hole. I have my aileron pushrods on the inner hole, and at +/1 45 degrees travel on the servo arm, the ball link is nowhere near fouling anything. With the fairly short control horns PA provides, at about 90% endpoint, my aileron travel is limited only by the hinges at about 40 degrees, which doesn't worry me in the slightest.
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Old Dec 14, 2012, 09:54 PM
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Also, I'm having trouble getting the elevator horn to sit in. I've sanded it down a good bit but it sill won't get flush with the elevator.

I also had to cut a good bit back because the given slot was so small. is this what everyone else experienced? Just keep sanding?
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Old Dec 14, 2012, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by pilot_keeter View Post
Also, I'm having trouble getting the elevator horn to sit in. I've sanded it down a good bit but it sill won't get flush with the elevator.

I also had to cut a good bit back because the given slot was so small. is this what everyone else experienced? Just keep sanding?
rather than lengthen the slot a lot, I used a #11 blade to free the slot a little, then I used a fine file to narrow the tab on the horn down to the length of the slot. I also put a gentle taper on it - probably more by accident than design, and that let the horn get into the slot then fit snugly without forcing. I think I would have taken a bit over 1mm off - the carbon files quickly and smoothly. A nail file or emery board might be a suitable substitute
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Old Dec 15, 2012, 03:40 AM
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Originally Posted by scirocco View Post
rather than lengthen the slot a lot, I used a #11 blade to free the slot a little, then I used a fine file to narrow the tab on the horn down to the length of the slot. I also put a gentle taper on it - probably more by accident than design, and that let the horn get into the slot then fit snugly without forcing. I think I would have taken a bit over 1mm off - the carbon files quickly and smoothly. A nail file or emery board might be a suitable substitute
Thanks! I've gotten the width correct, now I just need to shorten it a little more. It goes in a bit and stops about 1.5 mm or so before siting sung with the elevator. Looking from above it almost seems to be angled outward a little. I may need to straighten my slot a bit to get it 90 degrees.
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Old Dec 15, 2012, 06:19 AM
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How did you go trimming the servo horns so that there is clearance for the ball joint?
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Old Dec 15, 2012, 07:35 PM
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How did you go trimming the servo horns so that there is clearance for the ball joint?
Although I asked a former PA team pilot and he answered outer hole, the same guy that told me outer for the ailerons told me that Shaun says inner for the tail links. He says he used the inner holes with no clearance issues.
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Old Dec 15, 2012, 09:09 PM
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Although I asked a former PA team pilot and he answered outer hole, the same guy that told me outer for the ailerons told me that Shaun says inner for the tail links. He says he used the inner holes with no clearance issues.
Fair enough - just don't be afraid to trim away excess of the servo arm if the ball link is going to foul. He probably had no clearance issues because he used a short horn to start with.
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Old Dec 15, 2012, 11:39 PM
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Still working on my tail...

Did anyone else face this issue?

I know it's only 2-3mm off, and maybe I'm being ridiculous. But it was either achieve full rudder deflection or have an even vertical. The only time the two matched perfectly was when the rudder was pushed all the way in before any left/right movement.
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Old Dec 15, 2012, 11:51 PM
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I think you might be overly anal...

On all my planes, this is always a few mm back. Unless using some sort of pocket hinges, it is necessary to achieve max throws. It is still on straight.
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Old Dec 15, 2012, 11:52 PM
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I think you might be overly anal...

On all my planes, this is always a few mm back. Unless using some sort of pocket hinges, it is necessary to achieve max throws. It is still on straight.
Haha.

Confirmation: I'm letting my OCD get the best of me
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Old Dec 15, 2012, 11:57 PM
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You will be fine- you just need to get this in the air already; it's satisfying.

What all do you have left to do before maiden?
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 12:01 AM
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Finish setting up the tail links. Motor box, cowl, mount motor/esc/rx. That's really it. I know once I get it flying I'll look back and laugh at myself for being so meticulous, but right now I can't help it. The prefectionist in me I guess.
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 01:20 AM
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Finish setting up the tail links. Motor box, cowl, mount motor/esc/rx. That's really it. I know once I get it flying I'll look back and laugh at myself for being so meticulous, but right now I can't help it. The prefectionist in me I guess.
Prefection is hard to achieve but worth it

From where you are still took me about a night and a half
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by pilot_keeter View Post
Still working on my tail...

Did anyone else face this issue?

I know it's only 2-3mm off, and maybe I'm being ridiculous. But it was either achieve full rudder deflection or have an even vertical. The only time the two matched perfectly was when the rudder was pushed all the way in before any left/right movement.
p_k
If you increase the horizontal gap between the vertical stab and the rudder counter balance a little (ie. move the rudder up) you can reduce or even eliminate that difference.

dG
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by demonGti View Post
p_k
If you increase the horizontal gap between the vertical stab and the rudder counter balance a little (ie. move the rudder up) you can reduce or even eliminate that difference.

dG
Thanks, but its too late as I have already glued the rudder. I just tried for follow the manual as close as possible. At that position ^, the bottom of the rudder is level with the fuselage and the rudder is as close as possible without touching the vertical stab (all requested by the manual)
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