Despite its light weight the plane seems to handle wind better then other planes in its size.

Originally Posted by 3DeltaFly

The HS-65MG are a snug fit in the Bandit. I did have to trim the bay openings a wee bit to slightly increase their length, mostly for the aileron servos. Bay opening width required no adjustment and fit the HS-65MG servos just fine.

About the CF servo arm extensions, I do have them on my Bandit. The CF extensions, among other things, make standard plastic servo arms much stronger and more reliable. Used by themselves plastic servo arms tend to flex under load, especially on large 40 size models like the Bandit.

Thank you for your answers. After pricing up it seemed as cost effective to go iPa pro for bandit. That said after crunching my bestvaluerc MXS I am holding the bandit purchase until torque rolls don't end sadly for the fuse

The instructions for the Thrust 40 motor install suggest moving the black 'C clip', on left in pic.
I've done that, but do I leave the gold 'O' ring on?

Originally Posted by The Flying Pig

The instructions for the Thrust 40 motor install suggest moving the black 'C clip', on left in pic.
I've done that, but do I leave the gold 'O' ring on?

take it off completely. that way the motor will spin freely.

Take both off?

Originally Posted by The Flying Pig

Take both off?

yes, take both off

Thanks.
If they're not needed, what purpose do they serve?

Originally Posted by The Flying Pig

Thanks.
If they're not needed, what purpose do they serve?

Mostly they prevent a small amount of motor shaft "end play" that is unwanted in special applications such as gear reduction prop drives.

Originally Posted by aerofundan

30 mph crosswind!

Nice! I like those zero ground speed rolling harrier and KE at 1:06 ~ 1:12

Originally Posted by The Flying Pig

Thanks.
If they're not needed, what purpose do they serve?

Originally Posted by 3DeltaFly

Mostly they prevent a small amount of motor shaft "end play" that is unwanted in special applications such as gear reduction prop drives.

The circlip (c-clip) and its bushing serve a far more obvious purpose when the motor is mounted radially - in front of the firewall. They prevent the motor bell, shaft, and propeller from parting company with the rest of the plane and continuing forward on their own

Since the Bandit's design calls for the motor to be mounted behind the firewall, there is absolutely no need for the circlip and bushing, since the bell and shaft cannot fly off. They're prevented from doing so by the stator, and by the firewall itself.

However, the Thrust 40 is not being sold as being specific to the Bandit, and most people buying outrunners rightly have an expectation that they can be mounted either in front or behind a plane's firewall, depending on what the plane's design calls for.

Strictly speaking, many "behind" mounts do not require removal of the circlip & bushing, and it serves no particular purpose to remove them since forward pull from the prop during flight will easily keep them both clear of their closest bearing, thus reducing friction. The Bandit's instructions do call for the removal of the circlip (and bushing), because they'd never be able to spin freely in the small hole drilled in the firewall to let the shaft through - its barely bigger than the shaft diameter.

The aim is probably to maximize the amount of firewall "meat", and therefore the strength of that critical and highly stressed area. If the shaft hole was big enough to accommodate the circlip, a tiny bit of inconvenience - having to remove the circlip and its bushing - would be saved during construction, at the expense of weakening the firewall.

Well that clears that up. Said items are removed!
Many thanks all.
I'm never keen on such mods without knowing why.

Originally Posted by H2SO4

The circlip (c-clip) and its bushing serve a far more obvious purpose when the motor is mounted radially - in front of the firewall. They prevent the motor bell, shaft, and propeller from parting company with the rest of the plane and continuing forward on their own

That is correct, for most brushless outrunners.

As is (unmodified) I wouldn't wager that the Thrust 40 would easily work in an application of mounting in front of the firewall. I.e. the motor shaft's Circlip groove is in a position not conducive to accommodate "reversing the shaft" as one would with other motors. Additionally, the Thrust 40's end-bell is not drilled and tapped to receive a bolt-on style prop hub adapter.

To make it work for in front of firewall mount where the motor is bolted directly to the firewall, the Thrust 40 would require an after-market motor shaft a bit longer than the OEM one, and with a properly located if not second Circlip groove. Of course one could machine a new Circlip groove in the stock motor shaft if one were up to the task And then use the standard collet adapter as usual, assuming that the stock shaft doesn't end up being to short for the modification. Another solution is to mount the motor behind an X-mount with bolt-on stand-offs extending back to the firewall. This method is shown on side of the box newer Thrust motors are packaged in.

I should have read the box the motor came in!

Hey Shaun,

Just came across this post and saw your comments on spinners/backplates. My son flies an Ultimate, which he loves, but the one thing I've noticed is that the CF spinner that came from PA is starting to wobble. It looks as though the point where the prop cutout becomes very narrow against the backplate is flairing out over time, I'm assuming due to load, and is not staying seated against the backplate, thus inducing the wobble. Have you seen this before? Any remedy?

Thanks,
Jeff

Originally Posted by jkrflyer

Hey Shaun,

Just came across this post and saw your comments on spinners/backplates. My son flies an Ultimate, which he loves, but the one thing I've noticed is that the CF spinner that came from PA is starting to wobble. It looks as though the point where the prop cutout becomes very narrow against the backplate is flairing out over time, I'm assuming due to load, and is not staying seated against the backplate, thus inducing the wobble. Have you seen this before? Any remedy?

Thanks,
Jeff

Hi Jeff i have the exact same issue on my AMR,I've just left it off lately.there is a trick where u use vinyl cut about 2mm width,get the spinner on nice and snug and stick the vinyl on the spinner at the tip where it makes contact with the backplate firmly,so that the spinner can't get that outward flair effect and thus become wobbly