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Old Jun 18, 2012, 10:20 AM
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Wow, i have been flying for many years the pa prop adapters, and i have never had one come off.... i heard a good trick is to apply a small drop of loctite between the shaft and adapter. But i have no experience with that, and can't recommend it.
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Old Jun 18, 2012, 10:22 AM
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Here is the recommendation of how to install it written by PA

Here is what I recommend:

1. Fit the prop adaptor, spinner backplate and propeller then lightly fasten the nut while keeping a small gap between the cowl and spinner’s backplate (you can use a spacer to keep the gap). At this stage don’t bother aligning the prop on the backplate.

2. Loosen the nut and remove the backplate.

3. At this stage the collet will not come off as it is lightly clamped on the motor shaft. Install the prop and nut without the backplate. This time firmly fasten the nut.

4. Loosen the nut and install the backplate while aligning the propeller as the final installation.

What this procedure provides you is a very firm grip of the prop adaptor on the motor shaft. In fact after step 3 you will not be able to remove the prop adaptor UNLESS you will use the prop adaptor puller. You will bent the shaft, crack the cowl, break the motor box firewall before the collet will come off if using tools other than the prop adaptor puller.
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Old Jun 18, 2012, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aerofundan View Post
Here is the recommendation of how to install it written by PA
.
When I first got into electrics after 15 years of flying nitro I was amazed that the props are held on with friction even though the prop is pulling directly away from the shaft and we are dealing with substantial RPM and thrust. Who designed these motors like this? It's so weird that no one thought to thread the motor shaft the same way that glow engines and larger electric motors are made, with a nut fastened to the shaft itself, to ensure the prop stays on. Such an important safety feature.

I'll try tighter next time, but several posts in this thread suggest the problem is the lack of contact/bite into the prop with the backplate (which is not knurled).
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Old Jun 18, 2012, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by bmschulman View Post
So add me to the list of people whose stock prop adapter and CF spinner have flown off mid-air never to be seen again. I don't really feel like spending $40 to replace it. What are you all using as a spinner cone if you opt not to use the CF cone? PA does not seem to offer an alternative cone on their website. Thanks.
Yep, my spinner flew off too. I just bought the 2" Great Planes Nylon spinner with the aluminum backplate. I had to do a bit of filing so the 14x7 vox prop wouldn't touch the cone but otherwise working good so far. If I was to do it again I would buy the 2 1/4". Note this is the version with the aluminum, not plastic backplate. The red version is a decent match for my red Bandit.

Here is one possible place to buy, I got mine off ebay.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBMY4

I tried a 2" Dubro plastic spinner, doesn't fit the way the backplate mounting is recessed, rubs the cowl; so avoid the Dubro.


EDIT: to be clear, I only lost the PA spinner cone. The prop, backplate, prop adaptor on tight.
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Old Jun 18, 2012, 05:14 PM
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After my last flight I noticed my nose cone screws were coming loose, even with loctite on them. Time to find some slightly larger ones so I don't lose my precious $40 CF nosecone.
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Old Jun 18, 2012, 06:05 PM
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I fly without the spinner, and in fact I'm not entirely sure why I bought it - perhaps because it was meant to have some positive aerodynamic effect, but nobody seems ready to confirm anything of that nature.

Hence, to my way of thinking it's just unneccessary "unsprung" cosmetic weight; something to make the prop more difficult to balance, and the motor more likely to overheat due to less direct cooling through that central aperture.
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Old Jun 18, 2012, 10:23 PM
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I just picked up a white Extreme Flight 2.5" slightly big, a 2.25" is better but EF don't do a 2.25". Have to say i'm pretty impressed with it, TBH I don't actually mind the slightly bigger size. Quality is great as is the price!
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Old Jun 19, 2012, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmschulman View Post

I'll try tighter next time, but several posts in this thread suggest the problem is the lack of contact/bite into the prop with the backplate (which is not knurled).
A sharp screwdriver a block of wood and a small hammer you can knurl anything. Used to have to do to handlebars all the time in the bike shop I worked at when I was younger for kids that didn't torque down their bars correctly.
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Old Jun 22, 2012, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ecaa3d View Post
A sharp screwdriver a block of wood and a small hammer you can knurl anything. Used to have to do to handlebars all the time in the bike shop I worked at when I was younger for kids that didn't torque down their bars correctly.
The backplate is a precision piece of hardware that needs to remain balanced. I wouldn't want to hammer it and possibly bend it out of shape. This should be done at the factory.
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Old Jun 25, 2012, 12:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmschulman View Post
the backplate is a precision piece of hardware that needs to remain balanced. I wouldn't want to hammer it and possibly bend it out of shape. This should be done at the factory.
+1:d
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Old Jun 25, 2012, 02:45 AM
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Was just reading the latest (well just got to Australia anyway) RCM&E mag with a Bandit review and even the reviewer ended up drilling the shaft hole in the motor box larger so that the shaft circlip didn't fowl. You'd think by now PA would start putting that part of the instructions in the aircraft manual not the one with the motor that no one appears to read since it seems to be a very common question in these PA forums.

Or leave the circlip off the motor and throw it in the motor accesories bag since as far as i'm aware all the PA planes use front mount and hence no need for circlip.


In other news I've got an APC 14x7 and 15x6 along with some suitable 3s lipo's to try the Bnadit out on 3s with. Motor is the same Motrolfly 2820-950 that I currently spin an APC 13x6.5 with on 4s. So it should be a pretty potent 3s setup as well.
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Old Jun 25, 2012, 09:21 AM
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The Bandit really shines for slow and low 3D with the 3S setup it feels super light and floaty! and when you install a 4S pack it really opens up a whole new world with the fast high energy aerobatics!
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Old Jun 25, 2012, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luke352 View Post
Was just reading the latest (well just got to Australia anyway) RCM&E mag with a Bandit review and even the reviewer ended up drilling the shaft hole in the motor box larger so that the shaft circlip didn't fowl. You'd think by now PA would start putting that part of the instructions in the aircraft manual not the one with the motor that no one appears to read since it seems to be a very common question in these PA forums.

.


Hi,
It is actually in the manual of the bandit. I have included it in:

"Motor and ESC Installation

The motor is installed behind the motor box firewall using four screws and large washers (supplied with your Thrust motor). The washers are used in front of the firewall to spread the load. DO NOT under any circumstances enlarge/modify the motor shaft opening on the motor mount. If you are using the Thrust 40, remove the C clip off the motor shaft prior to installation to avoid it from rubbing against the firewall. There is no risk by removing the C clip when firewall (front mounted) installation is used. "


Thanks,
Shaun
Precision Aerobatics Team
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Old Jun 25, 2012, 10:59 AM
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Just watch out that you are not pushing the plane over the limits when using different propellers and gear. in other words the APC (same size) is not equivalent to the Vox (same size) but actually draws a lot more amps and has more vibretions. you may cause the motor box to break or something else to damage. not familiar with the specific motor you chose to use but anyway it would be experimental when using different gear. Personally i have found that Vox props give more flight time than APC, they consume less amps and are easier on battery packs! and in case of a bad landing you will only break the prop and not the plane...
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Old Jun 25, 2012, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmschulman View Post
The backplate is a precision piece of hardware that needs to remain balanced. I wouldn't want to hammer it and possibly bend it out of shape. This should be done at the factory.
If you are uncomfortable using a hobby hammer than a sharp scalpel would do just fine as well without un balancing the backplate. you aren't removing any material just scoring.

I would say it's not that having bite is the issue...you didn't torque it down. Torque is your friend here not any amount of knurling. If it's not torqued down enough than you won't have enough bite regardless if there is knurling or not and in my experience will give you a false sense of correct torque as it is introducing a variable that increases friction at the point just before proper torque is achieved. A properly "torqued" bolt will actually slightly stretch the threads which causes the threads to lock. Locktite should be used just as a precautionary measure not as a variable of proper torque.

Knurling doesn't do much and it actually reduces contact area. That's why race cars use slicks. If you take a look at HIGH end bikes any of the contact surfaces are either splined for correct fit or smooth for contact surface. High quality handlebar stems and handlebars are NOT knurled as they require you to properly torque down the setup.
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Last edited by m0dest; Jun 25, 2012 at 02:32 PM.
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