Originally Posted by capt

Anyone interested? I would take a pair for 30 +shipping.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5x-MyVu-CRYS...item460905a38f

LOL - 100% useless if you have no dongle to the glasses.

as a backup if you already have glasses they work ok...luckily I have 2 dongles in working condition.

Originally Posted by UndCon

LOL - 100% useless if you have no dongle to the glasses.

as a backup if you already have glasses they work ok...luckily I have 2 dongles in working condition.

OK, disregard then.

Originally Posted by vantasstic

is yours still the hazing issue? You can send it to me, if you'd like, for a look see. I can try one of the resistors i use...they seem to work fine. Pm me and we can work out details.

i sent you a pm to see if i can send them to you i actually got a second pair taht i would not dare to make the mods maybe you can do them for me ?

my MyVu Crystal goggles don't work with the SunSky 1.2 vrx ?! I have 2 sets of goggles and both work w/the 5.8 receiver but not w/the 1280 one!? Sometimes I get an image in the first second but then it dissapears as if it lost the signal? So I don't think it's the connection ... Can it be that the voltage of the signal is incompatible or something? It works w/an external display screen I have ... What can it be?

Realized that i had a pair of myvu's with white haze syndrome lying about. Added a 21 Ohm resistor and did the static mod. Works nice....for couple of minutes...darn. Indeed it looks like a temperature/drift issue, but after reading this whole thread from beginning to end...i did not yet see actual measurements or analyses of what is really going wrong with these goggles, apart from that is has someting to do with the supply voltage to the LCD units. In my case they are : Kopin KD040922K-K 280206003-J-8514 labelled units. I looked for datasheets at kopins site, to no avail, but checked on same problems on LCD screens (washed out LCD)

It might just be a backlight issue.... if I only had schematics....
Lets assume that it is a backlight issue, IC for backlight is on the mainboard, L3509 wich is a booster IC for white leds. (with two outputs....hmmmm)

http://www.ti.com/product/LM3509

Hmm, lets do some measurements tonight, you never know


[edit] Hmm, not really i think....the wash is also visible at lower brightness settings/incluiding vertical striping ...hmmm so it appears to be no "overlighting" the LCD's....

Great idea to start measurements in that direction.
My glasses are still producing the haze with resistor mod too.

Hope you will find a solution.

Ive been experimenting the led booster, but that component is ruled out. Now, is there someone with sharp eyes that can id other ic's on the unit. I just cant read the numbers even with a magnifying glass. I also send an email to support Kopin, if they have datasheets for the LCD's.

Does anyone tested the haze with temperature ? like putting the unit in the fridge for a while and measure how long(er) it takes for the haze to appear ?

I used to have cooling spray, with this you could very locally cool components to freezing point and identify temperature issues on pcb's

Huuuuuge props to Vantasstic for working his magic on my goggles!
The MyVus now work w/my sunsky 1.2 vrx! Thank you!

Originally Posted by ro.bi.

my MyVu Crystal goggles don't work with the SunSky 1.2 vrx ?! I have 2 sets of goggles and both work w/the 5.8 receiver but not w/the 1280 one!? Sometimes I get an image in the first second but then it dissapears as if it lost the signal? So I don't think it's the connection ... Can it be that the voltage of the signal is incompatible or something? It works w/an external display screen I have ... What can it be?

Originally Posted by Franck

Does anyone tested the haze with temperature ?
I used to have cooling spray, with this you could very locally cool components to freezing point and identify temperature issues on pcb's

That was exactly what I did too. I thought it must be a heat problem.
But there was absolutely no result in cooling the LCDs or PCBs down when the haze began.

The problem of the Myvu Crystal is not really overheating anything per se. It is the LCD screen going blank. LCDs are normally clear panels and when they receive a signal they darken to the desired brightness. For color LCDs the same thing is done, but on 3 different filters (which make up the matrix) at the same time (hence the R, G, and B signals) allowing the mixing of millions and millions of colours. Since the backlight is a pure white, as the LCD goes blank we get a pure white "haze."

I'm assuming that (stock) the matrices are pretty far overpowered, and they experience some sort of failure to the point that they can't properly handle the RGB signals.

In the original fixing Myvu post:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1331583/my...wer-white-haze

The guy added pulldowns to the RGB lines, I'm assuming that this is to fix up the RGB signals which seem to experience some weird fluctuation when the matrices are at a lower voltage (which is why flicker happens when the resistors are too high of a value).

While this guy soldered the RGB lines in the glasses themselves, they are pretty easily accessible inside the pendant, so that's probably an easy way to eliminate flicker. With the flicker problem eliminated, there is no need to use extremely specific low value resistors to stop the white haze.

I've had the RGB pulldowns and matrix mod soldered in for a few months now, but I can't test it. I would test it so I could give some more concrete answers but all I have is two pendants (the carbon tracks on one of my LCDs came off for no apparent reason, it is unfixable). So if anyone has a pair of glasses please let me know! I NEED THEM!

PLEEEEEEEEAAAAAASSSSSSSSSSSSSSEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE! !! <-reduced to whining.

Sounds interesting. I would like to see where the RGB signals are in the pendant.

To add resistors next to the LCDs is way to small for me to handle there.
So a better place in the pendant would be good. But I have not tried to follow the cables yet where they end in the pendant.

Today I've modified Myvu Crystal with white haze after several minutes.
But instead of trying different resistors I've put two diodes in series: one standard silicone one 100mA with 0,7V forward voltage and second 100mA shottky one with 0,35V forward voltage. After soldering it in a place of this small item (probably inductor - its resistance is 0 Ohm) ) voltage drops from 9.26V to 8.05V
and haze gone away on two lowest brightness levels, some flickering on two brightest levels.
Probably only one standard diode will be enough to drop approx 0,7V and screen will be with no haze on all brightness level, but owner was so happy and denied any further experiments.

Thank you for your solution. But did you run the glasses long enough ?
On mine the reduction of the voltage removed the haze at first but it came later (after 15 minutes).

Maybe you have read my input voltage tests earlier. I have also tried to lower the voltage but it was not possible to keep the haze away.

We've checked it at maximum brightness for approx 15 minutes with no problem. Hope it will work well for long time with low brightness level (as it will be used at airfield).
In my opinion any modification (resistor or diode) just "bypass" serious design problem, not solved it :-(.

Originally Posted by Zbig

We've checked it at maximum brightness for approx 15 minutes with no problem. Hope it will work well for long time with low brightness level (as it will be used at airfield).
In my opinion any modification (resistor or diode) just "bypass" serious design problem, not solved it :-(.

Bypass, fix, doesn't matter to me. As long as they work and don't haze up any more I'm happy. I only use mine as backups now, but they still are nice and compact to have around.