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Old Apr 08, 2011, 11:07 PM
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rimripper's Avatar
Alberta,Canada
Joined Nov 2009
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Flame,I would hang tough with the 6.5x6 prop,that will get you flyin' some fast speeds.
Also you should run those statics shorter,I hope you allowed the motor to cool right down between tests.
Your amps will drop in flight,so I would play it safe there.

What size lipo did you run?6s,how many mah?

I can see a 6.5x6.5 pylon for this motor in the future,but gets some flights in first and get a feel for the speeds first,and then we can look at the inflight data.

But you should cut the staic test time down,one good burst of 1-2 shut it down,I would hate to see you burn it before you get air time with it.
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Old Apr 09, 2011, 01:02 AM
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United States, CA, SF
Joined Mar 2008
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Flame,

Yo buddy.....I bet you are still awake and fantasizing about all the possibilities.

You did good with your testing tonight. Propped up till you found which prop draws a bit more Amps on ground than we want in the air.

We have a good idea of what the 16/25/3 can do in a Stryker on 6S (70A max)
You are running your motor with similar KV in a Funjet (a negative due to airframe's lower cooling air flow to motor) but you do have a little lower resistance (a plus) and 20% bigger internal part (a plus).

I suggest that you start with less than maximum Amps, get a feel for temps and then step up incrementally.

Try something like 6X4Sport , 6.5X3.7Pylon, maybe 6.3X4 check out the temps given your flying style and ambient temps...also get used to the sound of all those RPMs.

I'm not 100% sure of starting with 7X4Sport but you might be ok.

It never hurts to have an extra flight or two before hitting very high power levels.

*** keep in mind that inTexas you will have higher ambient temps than most others in these threads.

Play it safe.... And fly in early morning hours when running high Amps.

Be conscious of throttle duration and throttle control.


Enjoy,

Gryphon
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Old Apr 09, 2011, 06:56 AM
Why the dirt on the wings?
moparmyway's Avatar
New York
Joined Jan 2009
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I agree with Rim on the prop choice, and you are at the absolute MAX for static test time .................. I would hope that you used Gryphons tried and true method of a bag of ice to cool down between props.

Expect somewhere around 140 mph (minimum) with the 6.5x6 prop IF that build can fly as good as it looks !!!!!
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Old Apr 09, 2011, 05:30 PM
Static Model Collector LOL
Katy, TX
Joined Dec 2009
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Thanks for all the input and support guys - really means a lot to me.

Mopar - I allowed the motor to cool down between prop test, I attacked another ICE 100 with my dremel tool today, - not pretty but nice big holes, both in the front and rear, I know you're the one that come up with this mod, I can post pic's - if it's ok with you.

Gryphon - I am truly excited about this motor, Sadly I was not up at 1AM, Usually I am, but had to deal with the CaseWorker

OK almost finished putting everything together, got the motor fully covered with a heatsink, and deceided to go with a direct solder for the motor and ESC



Yeah I need to take it easy with that wire

No secret that my piloting skills are not great, so Broke out the Co-Pilot II, the main sensor is damaged, well just the case is cracked, lens look ok - will have to test it out, if not I will go with the FY20 it's another flight stabilization system.

Gonna take it nice and slow, not looking for speed right now, need to get this bird trimmed out, spent to much time building this.

Will add - completed build pics later

Thanks again,

FCA
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Old Apr 09, 2011, 06:10 PM
Why the dirt on the wings?
moparmyway's Avatar
New York
Joined Jan 2009
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Post up the ICE pictures Dude, lets see if you did something better that I thought of, there is allways 1 or 2 things Dudes can learn from others, maybe you could take one of my ideas and bring it into a new and better perspective.
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Old Apr 10, 2011, 08:53 PM
Static Model Collector LOL
Katy, TX
Joined Dec 2009
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You are way to kind Mopar, but that just made my day, been dealing with a lot's of things going wrong, Ex wife, Case Worker gone MAD, etc

Anyway nothing ground breaking, nor pretty
Pic 1 - Decided to keep some plastic around the caps to protect them, and prevent them from bending
the opening should provide airflow

Pic 2 - Front bottom - opted for side holes instead.
Note - Might cut open the entire middle section, next time I pull it out for service

Pic 3 - Back


please provide feedback, wonder what castle would say when I have to send this in for repair

Note - The ICE is not sitting flush in the FJ fuse, so air will go over, thru, and under Just need to try to keep the rat nest of wires neat

From last night - I added some Dave Brown CF tape to strengthen the motor mount area, If anyone plan on doing this, a word of caution - make sure the tape does not overlap, it will not allow the mount to fit flush, and cause a whole lot of unnecessary headaches, I wasted 1 hour cutting off the mount last night, pulling off and reapplying the CF tape, luckily I had an extra mount
Look closely and you can see the overlap


Co-Plot II - install currently underway
Main sensor installed, secured with hot glue

Front view - Looks a little crooked


Anyway - no flying today
Throttle would not arm - Dreaded having to pull everything apart.

But the Gods tossed me a bone,
Checked all of the plugs and remember that custom y-adapter

Well I had the ESC male plugged in backwards

Throttle arms - Woosha

Mopar - I recently found out that these are heavy duty futaba y adapters, typical 1 male to 2 females.

Kirk just cut off one of the female plugs, removed the red wire, and installed a male plug.

So instant cheap 2 females, to 1 male adapter - Love how that sounds

So no flying till probably next weekend, till then will reach out the the CPII experts for additional setup tips.

BTW: Terry will be mailing out the FJ Mounts tomorrow, when you guys receive them please post pics on the various FJ Threads on you initial impression, overall feel of the mounts, and flight evaluation of both when you can, would be interesting to see data, 2 guys up north, and my data were it's already in the 90's

Thinking about getting a digital temperature gun, Harbor freight has a cheap one, but per the spec sheet the variance is +/- 4 degrees, that's a lot.

Which one are you guys using.

Thanks,

FCA

Also gonna balance the new prop's I got in.
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Old Apr 10, 2011, 09:28 PM
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rimripper's Avatar
Alberta,Canada
Joined Nov 2009
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Hey Flame,you should try to remove the top of the esc,I mean the little box plastic peice.With it elevated and good flow you will have some great cooling!!
Glad it was just a backwards plug for you and nothing to deep in.
for a temp gun there are a few different brands to be had.The pistol grip style is easy to handle,like anthing you will pay for good quality.

Greg.
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Old Apr 11, 2011, 12:34 AM
Static Model Collector LOL
Katy, TX
Joined Dec 2009
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Thanks for the tip, I was thinking about removing that front plastic piece, but was not sure, let's see what happens next time I need to salvage parts

Co-pilot save me

As for the heat gun, don't know if a +/- 4 degree variance is a big deal, I tend to be cheap on certain things.

FCA
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Old Apr 11, 2011, 06:42 AM
Why the dirt on the wings?
moparmyway's Avatar
New York
Joined Jan 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLAME747 View Post
1. Mopar - I recently found out that these are heavy duty futaba y adapters, typical 1 male to 2 females.

Kirk just cut off one of the female plugs, removed the red wire, and installed a male plug.

So instant cheap 2 females, to 1 male adapter - Love how that sounds

2. Thinking about getting a digital temperature gun, Harbor freight has a cheap one, but per the spec sheet the variance is +/- 4 degrees, that's a lot.

Which one are you guys using.

Thanks,

FCA

Also gonna balance the new prop's I got in.
I like the cooling mods, I just keep in mind that MAX air is necessary, no matter what.

1. I am 100% sure that you will do damage to the ESC with a "Y" adapter, had it happen to me, unless you plan on unplugging from receiver every time. Castle connect is cheap and works.

2. I use Fluke model 68 IR temp gun with the optional Thermocouple for contact measurements
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Old Apr 11, 2011, 08:24 AM
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United States, CA, SF
Joined Mar 2008
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Which temp gun do you guys recommend from hobby shops?


I don't have one, but I do have 2 different type temp sensors for Eagle tree.
Motor loop and micro.


Gryphon
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Old Apr 11, 2011, 11:28 AM
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United States, NY, Bay Shore
Joined Apr 2009
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Can't turn my back on you....

We will need to have a long and extensive discussion......
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Old Apr 11, 2011, 11:55 AM
Static Model Collector LOL
Katy, TX
Joined Dec 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nightflyr View Post
We will need to have a long and extensive discussion......

You’ve always been there for me, thanks buddy.

Still lurk around on HF, but been bugging these guys here, made some great friends,

Castle South – Is currently working on 2 Raptors, that will make the town’s people run for cover, What wickedness will the summers heat bring to TX.

Sorry guy’s – Special lingo just for NightFlyr – My Buddy from HF

Shoot me a PM on HF, my mailbox is almost full over here.

BTW – Remember I previously mentioned Mega Motors, Gonna install one on the Logo 600, I am planning on building – That build should start in the next few months.

To busy with other projects right now, Thanks for visiting my Blog.

FCA
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Old Apr 11, 2011, 12:20 PM
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United States, NY, Bay Shore
Joined Apr 2009
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Before you go terrorizing anything or body deep down south...

I need to school you on fuselage reinforcement and strengthening with a bit less weight
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Old Apr 12, 2011, 05:59 PM
Static Model Collector LOL
Katy, TX
Joined Dec 2009
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2 more set's of FMA Co-Pilot II inbound, should be here by thursday, gonna install some training wheels on my birds - Thanks NightFlyr

Terry's mount's should also arrive at the same time

Nothing major will be going on till I maiden.

FCA

Todd's models have the best price on HS5065MG & HS5085MG Servo's if anyone is looking

http://www.toddsmodels.com/Hitec_Servos_s/48.htm
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Old Apr 14, 2011, 05:20 PM
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United States, CA, SF
Joined Mar 2008
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Flame,

I use NEU 6mm bullets.

http://www.neumotors.com/store/page6/index.html


If you have too much trouble with soldering your test stand's fat ESC wires onto Castle 6.5mm bullets, then maybe modify the back side like the NEU bullets pictures in above link.

Doing the mod, does not mean that you have to solder as I did (down below).

_____________________________

Here is how I soldered mine:

Posts #1566-#1568

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_88...63/key_/tm.htm


Good luck,

Gryphon
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