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Old Jan 22, 2013, 06:14 PM
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Brownsburg, Indiana
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The wet season has arrived and the local billabongs (ponds) are quickly filling with water, so I do not want any delays during the limited time of our wet season.

Ken[/QUOTE]

Our wet season is all year long here in the US Midwest. Problem is for about four months each year the wet can be a solid!
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Old Jan 22, 2013, 07:24 PM
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Darwin Australia
Joined May 2002
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Quote:
Our wet season is all year long here in the US Midwest. Problem is for about four months each year the wet can be a solid!
My Problem is similar to you wanting to take off and land on snow. There is only a 4 month period when I have enough water in the billabongs. Once the billabongs start to dry up they are surrounded by slippery mud flats. This makes it difficult to get a model out onto the water.

Ken
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 07:51 PM
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Brownsburg, Indiana
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I picked up another receiver today. Ouch! Still waiting on motors and such to show up from HobbyKing. Just twiddling my thumbs for now....
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 06:48 PM
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Brownsburg, Indiana
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I'm getting fed up with local hobby shop. If it's not a replacement part for a popular arf you're looking for, might as well look elsewhere. I need to find a carbon fiber spar.
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Old Feb 04, 2013, 01:20 AM
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Jacksonville Florida
Joined Jul 2002
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This plane really does not need an extra spar added to it. It has a wooden spar already in it. I have done loops, rolls and even hammerheads with mine and no problem. Its mostly a graceful slow flying plane, but if you still want to add extra strength you might try your local sporting goods store and find a carbon arrow shaft. You could also look at a toy store for a kite with a carbon or fiberglass spar. Barring that there are many online kite stores that sell carbon fiber tubes and many hobby supply web sites that sell carbon fiber tubes.
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Old Feb 04, 2013, 01:03 PM
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Grass Valley California
Joined Jun 2004
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Originally Posted by flying jeep View Post
I'm getting fed up with local hobby shop. If it's not a replacement part for a popular arf you're looking for, might as well look elsewhere. I need to find a carbon fiber spar.
Not sure about your hobby shop but most carry carbon rod, or they can order from several suppliers includeing Mid West

Dennis
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 05:45 PM
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Brownsburg, Indiana
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I found carbon rod at Tower Hobbies. Just got here today along with the motors and such from HK. I need help with the motors, mounts, and props. I bought the recommended Turnigy L2210-1230 motors, TowerPro alloy stick mount for 24** motors, and 3 bladed props. It appeared to me that you remove the flat mount off the back of the motor and the alloy mount clamps onto the round portion of the motor left over. If that's true, the mount will have to be pried wide open to fit. And the motors have very long threaded shafts, how do you mount the prop on the little threaded shaft? Prop adapters and cut the shaft to length?

The alloy mounts won't work, too small. I found these at Hobbytown:
http://www.hobbytown.com/Shop/Outrunner-Stick-Mount/

I'll have to drill new mount holes in the flange mounts on the motor, but that's easy. I also found 3mm prop adapters that look like they'll work. Looks like I answered my own questions on this one....
Jay
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 11:23 PM
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Canada, BC, Kelowna
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see my post #1041 i think it is you dont need to use the stupid stick mounts they are hard to find proper ones and they stick out funny.
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 05:15 PM
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Brownsburg, Indiana
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see my post #1041 i think it is you dont need to use the stupid stick mounts they are hard to find proper ones and they stick out funny.
I found it, it's post 1038, but I see what you're talking about. I need to get the kit out and have a look. I just thought they may have reinforced the area for a stick mount and that's what I should use....
Jay

Yes, it looks like an 1-5/8" hole saw would be perfect. Before I start cutting, I'm going to buy the prop mounts and see where they are going to put the props. How did you make sure both motors are pointing the same direction? I can see where it could be difficult to remove the styrofoam after cutting with the holesaw.
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 07:55 PM
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Canada, BC, Kelowna
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i never removed any material at all. my flat mounts are glued right to the flat surfaces about 3/4 inch in from the edge of the end of the nacel. the only thing i did was cut a flat spot out of the bottom of the disk i made to run the wires past and into the nacel. i had hollowed out some of the nacel to allow air flow past the motor and speed controller when i origionally planned on putting the speed controller out there but i later put it in the fuse. putting both the speed controllers in the fuse created a whole new issue due to there being no air flow in the fuse, i dont know how i got as lucky as i did but i burnt both speed controllers on the same flight as the plane was taxiing in.

origionally when i built my 415 i had lots of photos i was planning on doing a build thread on it, but somewhere in the middle of the holiday season that year i was messing with my camera and with out knowing it erased everything on it. changing camera settings i hit the change format to get higher quality shots and found out that formats my sd card at the same time.
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 08:06 PM
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Brownsburg, Indiana
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Originally Posted by furballll View Post
i never removed any material at all. my flat mounts are glued right to the flat surfaces about 3/4 inch in from the edge of the end of the nacel..
By not removing any foam I guess the motors stick out about 1/2"?
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 11:36 PM
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heres how mine still look on the wing. the rest of the plane is destroyed from my playing with the trees on purpose out in the field.
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Old Feb 07, 2013, 06:31 PM
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Brownsburg, Indiana
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Looks like the best way to go.
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Old Feb 08, 2013, 07:17 AM
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Jacksonville, FL
Joined Jan 2006
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Alternate Motor Mount

I used conventional "X" shaped mounts in my CL-415. I just measured back from the front of the existing foam and used a razor saw to cut (parallel to the front) all the way through the engine nacelle. Then I just glued on a piece of 1/8 inch plywood and screwed the motor on. Then hollow out what ever is needed to allow the cut off piece to fit back over the motor. Then glue the cut off piece back on with silicon rubber so that it will be easy to remove in the future. Mine is cut 40mm back from the front because that was the distance between the back of the spinner and the back of the motor mount.
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Old Feb 08, 2013, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by bettsmums View Post
I used conventional "X" shaped mounts in my CL-415. I just measured back from the front of the existing foam and used a razor saw to cut (parallel to the front) all the way through the engine nacelle. Then I just glued on a piece of 1/8 inch plywood and screwed the motor on. Then hollow out what ever is needed to allow the cut off piece to fit back over the motor. Then glue the cut off piece back on with silicon rubber so that it will be easy to remove in the future. Mine is cut 40mm back from the front because that was the distance between the back of the spinner and the back of the motor mount.
Sounds like a great idea, but how were you sure the thrust line was the same as the leading edge of the cowling? I would guess it wouldn't make much difference as long as both sides were cut the same way. If you had a block of wood the same thickness as the depth you wanted to cut, you could tack glue a saw blade so it overhangs the block to make a perfect cut. Hold the nacelle nose down on a smooth surface and work the cutting block around the edges. Kind of like marking a water line on a boat with a pencil on a block.
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