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Old Mar 08, 2012, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Bo43 View Post
? 3 x AWG12 wires are quite bulky, and I would obviously prefer the minimum size. (I do have to extend all 3 wires?)
agree with the bulky # 12 , 100w peak mean approx. 9 amp on the DC side (3sLIPO running 11.5v average) and less than that splitted onto 3 phase (/1.732 formula) so i suggest to use 18 AWG flex multi for motor extension

if you measure the motor winding, its probably #22 or less anyway

Here is my setup wich need approx. 30cm of battery lead (16AWG)
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Old Mar 08, 2012, 01:29 PM
Bob S.
France, Auvergne, Luneau
Joined Aug 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggtronic View Post
agree with the bulky # 12 , 100w peak mean approx. 9 amp on the DC side (3sLIPO running 11.5v average) and less than that splitted onto 3 phase (/1.732 formula) so i suggest to use 18 AWG flex multi for motor extension

if you measure the motor winding, its probably #22 or less anyway

Here is my setup wich need approx. 30cm of battery lead (16AWG)


Thanks, I'll try it. From your pici, I note you only have 2 wires connected. My Turginy has 3 wires - black/red/blue - do I need to connect all three to the ESC?
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Old Mar 08, 2012, 01:42 PM
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Bo43 : the debate that occur few post before is about your question:

extend motor wire (wich mean all 3 wires) or extend DC battery supply
to ESC wich need only + and -

in your case you absolutely need to extend all 3 motor wire with
a really good secure methods

Many user think that this CL415 has advantage with 2 motors, but
the common lead to 1 motor failur is a crash because we usually apply
more throttle when we find the lack of thrust while airborne = crash
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 03:58 PM
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First flight immanent

Now looking forward to maiden flight, (probably hand launch ). Original wooden spars removed and 6mm x 1000mm carbon-fibre tube spar fitted. Flaps cut from wings are driven to 15deg & 25deg by two wing-top fitted 9gm servos. Rudder servo relocated to fin and elevator servo, (standard Futaba 148 type), now drives via snake into fin with a transfer linkage to the elevator. Spray chines fitted to front hull and hull resin/glassed. Hatch and wing-seat waterproofed with in-situe cast silicone rubber gaskets. Two off Turnigy L2210C-1200 Brushless Motors (150w each) fitted to bulkheads in nacelles driving GWS 9x5x3 props controlled by Hobby King ESCs, (Max Current: 25A Ė 30A burst), in nacelles. (I cut off the original nacelle fronts because they were just SO ugly). Contra rotating props with rudder mastered differential throttle for surface steering, (very effective on carpet, should be fine on water). Total weight including 2200mA battery at 1.4 kilos, (3lbs). Anyone out there like to offer any further mods / advice / tips / doís / doníts / warnings before D-day? All and any comments welcome.
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 04:10 PM
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mustangwally : really nice bird... good luck


no water mainden is an excellent idea

i'm able to take off easy from short grass
and wing floater didnt cause problem...
maybe a better option than hand launch
a little off the grass bumb & land just to see...

differential throttle is an excellent option since a slight
thrust difference cas cause dramatic TIPspin so i suggest
you do the mainden with throttle diff ON ready

another video of my CL : skip to 1:00
BOUCHairVILLE.com (3 min 10 sec)
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 04:46 PM
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Thanks ggtronic. maybe a better option than hand launch
a little off the grass bumb & land just to see...
Do you mean to lift off from short grass and land straight ahead first time ?
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 05:00 PM
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yap short grass and land straight ahead first time
might be a good first test with a big park field...

thats what i'v done first , but on the water, because i
didnt know grass work so good a that time

i'v done plenty of hand launch and it work really good too

i have up to 150w power for each motor (total 300w)
measured with power meter, so if you have that kind
of power with 8x4 3 blade prop... it will take off easy

i think i'm up to 1.2 kilo AUW including my fpv gear &
3x2200...
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 05:58 PM
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ggtronic, i have up to 150w power for each motor (total 300w)
measured with power meter, so if you have that kind
of power with 8x4 3 blade prop... it will take off easy

Very re-assuring, thanks again.
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangwally View Post
Now looking forward to maiden flight, (probably hand launch ). Original wooden spars removed and 6mm x 1000mm carbon-fibre tube spar fitted. Flaps cut from wings are driven to 15deg & 25deg by two wing-top fitted 9gm servos. Rudder servo relocated to fin and elevator servo, (standard Futaba 148 type), now drives via snake into fin with a transfer linkage to the elevator. Spray chines fitted to front hull and hull resin/glassed. Hatch and wing-seat waterproofed with in-situe cast silicone rubber gaskets. Two off Turnigy L2210C-1200 Brushless Motors (150w each) fitted to bulkheads in nacelles driving GWS 9x5x3 props controlled by Hobby King ESCs, (Max Current: 25A Ė 30A burst), in nacelles. (I cut off the original nacelle fronts because they were just SO ugly). Contra rotating props with rudder mastered differential throttle for surface steering, (very effective on carpet, should be fine on water). Total weight including 2200mA battery at 1.4 kilos, (3lbs). Anyone out there like to offer any further mods / advice / tips / doís / doníts / warnings before D-day? All and any comments welcome.

Make sure you can cut the diff' throttle once in the air or just before otherwise it will get interesting in flight. you only need the diff throttle at very low speed, once the rudder is working she will turn fine, I have now removed the diff from my Catalina as it just wasnt needed, it has no water rudder either. As long as I dont try to taxi at 1mph its fine.

Dave
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 09:17 PM
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Make sure you can cut the diff' throttle once in the air .Dave
agree ... i dont use it much either... problem is many user dont know how to program ESC calibration & endup with huge differential thrust and dont know how to ajust it . This mixing allow for rudder trim if they cannot get rid of thrust difference (ESC calibration, motor quality match...)

with RC twin engine , we doesnt hear (feal) if both motor run fine and
i would suggest to throttle down if any lost of control appear (engine lost )

Many of us chose 15$ motor instead of 80$ motor (me ) and i do endup
near disaster when one of my motor start to die in flight
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 08:47 AM
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dav3uk Make sure you can cut the diff' throttle once in the air or just before otherwise it will get interesting in flight. you only need the diff throttle at very low speed, once the rudder is working she will turn fine, I have now removed the diff from my Catalina as it just wasnt needed, it has no water rudder either. As long as I dont try to taxi at 1mph its fine.

ggtronic with RC twin engine , we doesnt hear (feal) if both motor run fine and
i would suggest to throttle down if any lost of control appear (engine lost )


On reflection from your comments above I will reduce the rudder / throttle coupling by half but I'm not aware of a method of switching it on and off at will with a Spectrum DX8. I'll read the manual again. Certainly most advice seems to be not to increase power on engine loss but to turn away from the failed motor.( I'm now wondering if a heading gyro on the rudder servo might help in the event of a motor failure). I've no experience at all with gyros, any thoughts, anyone? Thanks again for your replies.
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangwally View Post
dav3uk Make sure you can cut the diff' throttle once in the air or just before otherwise it will get interesting in flight. you only need the diff throttle at very low speed, once the rudder is working she will turn fine, I have now removed the diff from my Catalina as it just wasnt needed, it has no water rudder either. As long as I dont try to taxi at 1mph its fine.

ggtronic with RC twin engine , we doesnt hear (feal) if both motor run fine and
i would suggest to throttle down if any lost of control appear (engine lost )


On reflection from your comments above I will reduce the rudder / throttle coupling by half but I'm not aware of a method of switching it on and off at will with a Spectrum DX8. I'll read the manual again. Certainly most advice seems to be not to increase power on engine loss but to turn away from the failed motor.( I'm now wondering if a heading gyro on the rudder servo might help in the event of a motor failure). I've no experience at all with gyros, any thoughts, anyone? Thanks again for your replies.
On the DX8 in your mix setup there will be a option to use a switch to activate the mix, set it up on one off the toggle switches and then you can turn it on and off with the flick of the switch.

Dave
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 10:41 AM
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Darwin Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dav3uk View Post
Make sure you can cut the diff' throttle once in the air or just before otherwise it will get interesting in flight. you only need the diff throttle at very low speed, once the rudder is working she will turn fine, I have now removed the diff from my Catalina as it just wasnt needed, it has no water rudder either. As long as I dont try to taxi at 1mph its fine.

Dave
For experimentation I once flew my GWS P-38 Lightning by using only differential throttle for turning while airborne. I had a +/- 25% differential throttle programed into this airplane. The only problem was that right hand turns were slower than left hand turns.

There are a number of toy flying models that use only differential throttle for turning as well as many scale twin engined indoor models.

So I would expect that if +/- 25 differential throttle is used then there would be no need to switch it off when airborne. My own CL-415 is set up with +/- 25% differential throttle that is automatically disabled at over 75% throttle setting but I normally fly at between 50% and 75% throttle and I have no problems. Differential throttle is normally activated by mixing from the rudder function and I normally do not use the rudder in flight when flying my CL-215.

Ken
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Old Mar 18, 2012, 12:43 PM
Bob S.
France, Auvergne, Luneau
Joined Aug 2008
81 Posts
HobbyKing 6Ch Transmitter

I'm inching my way (or better said, millimetering my way!).
I understood that the Switches SW.A and SW.B were the 5th and 6th channels, but ..... when I flip SW.A off, the throttle goes dead. Question: what are the Switches A and B and their respective pots? I tried to find an instruction manual, to no avail.
I also thought that with the Throttle trim, I could independantly control the throttle of each motor, again wrong. I presume I must organise a differential throttle linked to the rudder, but how. Can anyone help? Thanks
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Last edited by Bo43; Mar 18, 2012 at 02:46 PM. Reason: misspelling and incomplete larger foto
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Old Mar 18, 2012, 06:29 PM
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Joined Dec 2007
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I see KMP sells this as well. I guess HK doesn't have it in the US Warehouse yet. Nitros is glass and big and requires more work. You'll know if anyone sells this as an ARF or RTF like the Dynam PBY...
Thanks
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