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Old Nov 13, 2011, 07:20 PM
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flytime

Not sure what glue you used. Gorilla Glue is not waterproof
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Old Nov 13, 2011, 11:45 PM
Obessive Compulsive
Visalia, California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shock View Post
Make sure your ESC's are throttle matched. I had this problem on an A-10 build. Have to program each separately to match them.

-Joe
That's right you can't program together. You must take the each out and program them seperately. Otherwise only one of them gets programed...
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Old Nov 14, 2011, 03:13 AM
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Thanks Ken, thanks DaveBC.

In an earlier question (possibly a different thread) I asked could I use two different ESCs (2 x 30A but different brands) and was told I could. Does it look like this information was incorrect?

Luke
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Old Nov 14, 2011, 07:21 AM
Parkcityflier
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Park City, UT, USA
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Originally Posted by catalinapby View Post
flytime

Not sure what glue you used. Gorilla Glue is not waterproof
I've been using Gorilla glue for years, the white or the brown, and never had any problem in the water. Titebond aliphatic resin glue or white glue is definitely not recommended. Check the inside label on the Gorilla glue. It says "100% waterproof". I confirm that.
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Old Nov 14, 2011, 07:46 AM
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To program the esc, hook up each esc to the RX separately and program each one buy moving the throttle to full on the TX, plugging in power to the RX, wait for the two beeps, and move the throttle stick all the way down, and you'll get two more beeps. This sets end points. Should do with both ESC's than they will be throttle matched.

-Joe
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Old Nov 14, 2011, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Luke2000 View Post
Thanks Ken, thanks DaveBC.

In an earlier question (possibly a different thread) I asked could I use two different ESCs (2 x 30A but different brands) and was told I could. Does it look like this information was incorrect?

Luke
I have never tried using unmatched ESCs so I do not know if it is possible. To me it makes sense to use a matched set the same as I use two matched motors purchased at the same time.

Ken
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Old Nov 14, 2011, 12:24 PM
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Renton, WA, US
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Luke, there is no reason you cannot use two different ESC's on a twin, but you might experience problems with the throttle curves not matching. That is why it's not really advisable. I guess the real risk is not knowing if it will be a problem until you actually fly it But if you already have flown without any problems, I would see no reason to swap them out for matching units.

As for Gorilla Glue being water proof, from my experience it is. It is also strong and dries very light, which is why I used it for my repairs. But it can also get messy. It is not a glue that you can just apply and leave unattended while it sets, unless you don't care how the glue joint looks when dried. It foams up and expands as it cures, so you have to constantly wipe away any excess with a damp cloth. There is one joint on my repaired nose where you can see a lot of white. That was the result of me being inattentive while it dried Oh well, I plan to fill, sand and re-paint soon enough, so it won't look that way for long.
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Old Nov 14, 2011, 02:04 PM
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Thanks fly time.
I had trouble getting Gorilla Glue and the guy sold me Jurassic glue, which he said was the same, just not the original. It is a dark treacle like glue, not unlike maple syrup in looks and texture, wet one side, glue the other, and it foams and cures rock hard. If Gorilla glue is the same, it is definitely waterproof. It is PU (polyurethane glue) and is used in boatbuilding. For what it's worth, a friend of mine built a plywood sailing boat gluing and filleting the joints using PU. The boat was stolen and destroyed. When it was found it was totally destroyed ... except the joints - they were all completely preserved in a skeletal type boat shape!

My CL nose looks identical to yours ( maybe a few more creases at this stage ) but I repaired using hot glue, it works great and is very quick. I thought that my last crash was it, but yellow hot glue to the rescue. I'll see if I can get some pics.
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Old Nov 22, 2011, 03:58 AM
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Looking back through this thread, I noticed my crash rate significantly higher than everyone else. Now I'm not a great pilot, but that bad?
Had another crash recently and found....
the antenna on my 4 month old DX6i had lost the hinge pin and I replaced it with a metal round pin. Over a short time, unknown to me, the grey co ax cable from the board to the antenna had been fraying and sometimes wasn't making full contact leading to bind failure or a range reduction. It eventually completely broke the outer cable and lead to ...another crash. This one occurred pretty close to me and I assumed it was the Orange receivers that I was using or transmitter batteries. Nothing would do but to try a Bixler instead with fresh transmitter batteries. Same again. Now I had checked the range before flying but having come from a DX5e where you hold the trainer switch back and check, I had assumed that the DX6i would be the same. It's not. For anyone else who hasn't read the instructions properly , you need to go into the setup menu, select range check, then hold the trainer key back while the test is run.
So, while I'm not the best at flying, when it comes to repairing foam, I'm getting pretty good now but hoping the practice sessions are finished now
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Old Nov 22, 2011, 03:54 PM
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Renton, WA, US
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I had a few more flights over the weekend and feel that I'm finally getting this plane dialed in. Flaps are now working great!

Due to trees behind me, I was forced to make my landings with a quartering tailwind of about 4 MPH, and the flaps really helped me slow it down to a reasonable landing speed.

Another mod that I made that seems to help quite a bit was joining the two elevators with a thin spar that passes through the rudder. I had to cut a crescent shaped opening through the rudder for this, but it looks just fine. Before making this mod, there was quite a bit of slop between the two halves of the elevator, but now both sides move uniformly. Pitch control is much sharper.
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Old Nov 22, 2011, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by fly time View Post
Another mod that I made that seems to help quite a bit was joining the two elevators with a thin spar that passes through the rudder. I had to cut a crescent shaped opening through the rudder for this, but it looks just fine. Before making this mod, there was quite a bit of slop between the two halves of the elevator, but now both sides move uniformly. Pitch control is much sharper.
I did something similar with a bent piece of metal running from elevator to elevator going behind the rudder. I also used a hot glue gun (yellow glue) to push through the foam to the hinges and inject glue. Helped quite a bit.

Going to copy your flaps setup. Got the steering arms this morning. Let's see how it goes. Only a certain age group will understand why I'm gonna name this plane Steve Austin!
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Old Nov 23, 2011, 01:07 PM
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Only a certain age group will understand why I'm gonna name this plane Steve Austin!
The bionic firebomber
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Old Nov 26, 2011, 10:27 AM
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Who knows motors and props. I just made a prop pull/watts/amps thingy for measuring. I swopped my TP2408 - 21Ts for these

http://r2hobbies.com/eng/proddetail.php?prod=rcps81531

cos they seemed better on a PBY that I had (it's a bit lighter). I put the whole wing onto my "measurer" and swopped props around. Heres the outcome for each motor:

8x3.8SF 110watts 410g 9.8Amps
8x4 80watts 400g 7Amps
8x6 127watts 430g 11Amps
10x6 135watts 570g forgot the amps and I know it won't fit but look at what you get extra for 1.2amps over the 8x3.8sf - 160g thrust! when multiplied by 2 motors, that's nearly a third motor

but does this mean that the 8x6 is too power hungry and the 8x4 is by far the best bet, drop 10g of thrust but save nearly 3amps?, and would the 800g thrust (combined) be enough. I'll have a go at the TP2408s next and see what they do.

ps swapped the water drop servo for a metal geared one as the teeth sheared on the 17g plastic geared servo, put a scoop section around the intake, a wider air vent pipe from the tank, to try and fill up quicker and rejigged the door and got a much better seal with less servo pressure required to stay sealed. Can't get around to trying it out though.

Luke
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Old Nov 26, 2011, 11:43 AM
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This is great info, i'm really surprised.

TowerPro 2408 21T
8x4 prop 130watts 350g 11.7Amps
8x6 prop 187watts 320g 17Amps
8x3.8sf 160watts 450g 15.9Amps

When I switched motors, I kept the same 8x3.8SF prop (which answers my question above) and it seemed that I got much longer flying time. I wondered was it my imagination, but looks like it wasn't.
Even with the r2 motor on a 8x6 prop, it's 20g (x2) less thrust but saves nearly 5amps per motor!
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Old Nov 26, 2011, 09:19 PM
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Darwin Australia
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Luke2000

The thrust developed is only half the story. Just as important is Pitch Speed. This is how fast a propeller of a particular pitch will propel an particular model. If the pitch speed is not high enough then the model will be flying too close to its stall speed. If so then it will be tricky to fly and prone to tip stalling in turns.

I have found that any thrust that is greater than half the weight of a model is sufficient to give good flying provided that the pitch speed is greater that 2 1/2 times the stall speed

Ken
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