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Old Nov 09, 2011, 04:02 AM
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Originally Posted by kensp View Post
My CL-415 weighed 38.5 oz ready to fly complete with a Zippy 1600 mAH 3 cell 20 C battery pack.

Ken
Oh dear,

47.5 oz without battery. I think it's been eating all the pies! Time for a diet

Luke
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Old Nov 09, 2011, 05:01 AM
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Originally Posted by parkcityskier View Post
If you want to add the splash guards, I made mine from .020" styreen sheet. I tacked them in place with thick CA glue and accelerator. I then poured in a small fillet of 30 minute epoxy, thinned with a drop of alcohol to make it flow a little easier. The fillet makes a nice transition from the hull to the splash guard and adds strength.
Parkcityskier,

Just looking back at this post, I thought that spray rails would have to come "out of the side" of the fuselage to stop the water being flung into the props. Do these help? I see in your post that your weight is 3lbs, so I'm still lighter than that
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Old Nov 09, 2011, 08:13 AM
Parkcityflier
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Park City, UT, USA
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The spray rails should be an extension of the molded area of the forward bottom of the hull (where the scalloped area is on the side of the hull). Mine eliminate just about all of the spray hitting the props. At a seaplane flying meet this last weekend I flew my CL-415 in very strong winds and wave action with no problem.
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Old Nov 09, 2011, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by parkcityskier View Post
The spray rails should be an extension of the molded area of the forward bottom of the hull (where the scalloped area is on the side of the hull). Mine eliminate just about all of the spray hitting the props. At a seaplane flying meet this last weekend I flew my CL-415 in very strong winds and wave action with no problem.
Ours appear to be the same weight and that scalloped area is underwater on mine. Is yours the same do you remember?

Luke

Just found this pic of a twinstar with splash guards. I would have thought that along each side above the waterline was where they are needed ?

http://www.parkflyerplastics.com/car...roducts_id=397
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Old Nov 09, 2011, 12:38 PM
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Luke - the spray rails shown on Parkcityskiers model work perfectly. Same set up on mine, completely eliminates the spray into the props. The main affect is the sharp edge, because water will climb over a rounded edge like on a foam molded hull. I've had to add spray rails or chines to every R/C seaplane I've ever had since 1970. No need to over think it here

Russ Farris
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Old Nov 09, 2011, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by pookielips1954 View Post
Luke - the spray rails shown on Parkcityskiers model work perfectly. Same set up on mine, completely eliminates the spray into the props. The main affect is the sharp edge, because water will climb over a rounded edge like on a foam molded hull. I've had to add spray rails or chines to every R/C seaplane I've ever had since 1970. No need to over think it here

Russ Farris
Thanks for that Russ. Just one more question. Looking at parks plane, do I glue the strips to the corner at the bottom/side point, as if they were a small extension of the fuselage side pointing down and same direction as the sides?

TVM

Luke
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Old Nov 09, 2011, 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Luke2000 View Post
Thanks for that Russ. Just one more question. Looking at parks plane, do I glue the strips to the corner at the bottom/side point, as if they were a small extension of the fuselage side pointing down and same direction as the sides?

TVM

Luke
You got it, Ace! The top of the spray rail would be even with the top of the red, giving you about 1/4 inch of gluing area for the spray rail.

Russ Farris
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Old Nov 09, 2011, 11:47 PM
GLM
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Hi All,

I should have posted this a while ago - We held a float fly on October 14-16th at a lake nearby.

Pardon the language of the cameraman the sun was an issue.

I'm hoping cheek strakes at the bow chine will help the rough landings - it looks like it stalls right at the last second and I guess that me

Cheers!

Gary

Gary's Canadair (6 min 7 sec)
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Old Nov 10, 2011, 02:58 AM
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Originally Posted by pookielips1954 View Post
You got it, Ace! The top of the spray rail would be even with the top of the red, giving you about 1/4 inch of gluing area for the spray rail.

Russ Farris
Thanks Russ, have it now.

Nice video Gary.

Luke
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Old Nov 12, 2011, 06:27 PM
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Renton, WA, US
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Structural repairs are complete, but I still have to fill in the wrinkles and cracks and probably repaint. That will be another day though. First order of business is to get her back in the air and fix the problems that caused me to crash. I got all of those things checked off the list this morning, and got down to the lake just ahead of the rain

Here is some on-board video of my first flight since the crash. It is not my most graceful flying but about half the flight was devoted to getting the trims set properly, and the air and water were just slightly choppy. It also cut short for some reason. I actually made about a half dozen landings and takeoffs before switching to a second battery.

Guan Li Canadair CL-415 (4 min 16 sec)
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Last edited by fly time; Nov 12, 2011 at 06:32 PM.
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Old Nov 12, 2011, 06:57 PM
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Renton, WA, US
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Here are a few pics of my repairs (in progress). I need to fill, sand and paint still, but the good news is that it flies just fine like this

I fixed the thrust differential at WOT by re-programming the ESC's (after spending forever trying to figure out what I had done wrong with the radio programming!). I corrected the flap trim problem by mixing in 2% left aileron with the flaps. And I also found that the thrust angle of the left motor was higher than that of the right, so I shimmed them level with each other with some thin washers.

After a couple of flights this morning, I no longer have any noticable problems with WOT (still not needed), but the flaps need some adjustment still. Maybe I will try mixing in a little down elevator because the plane pitches up ever so slightly and wants to stall unless I push the stick forward.
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Old Nov 12, 2011, 07:34 PM
High Voltage
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Make sure your ESC's are throttle matched. I had this problem on an A-10 build. Have to program each separately to match them.

-Joe
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Old Nov 13, 2011, 02:41 AM
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Originally Posted by shock View Post
Make sure your ESC's are throttle matched. I had this problem on an A-10 build. Have to program each separately to match them.

-Joe
I did do that before my maiden flight....or so I thought. For some reason it did not take. Did it again after the rebuild and now they seem to be fine. Unlike before, I did not witness any adverse yaw from advancing the throttle this time.
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Old Nov 13, 2011, 05:06 PM
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Fly time, nice video, where's the bang at splash at touchdown . I'm amazed how from the hatch back looks so new - you seem to be able to do precision crashes

I found in mine that one of the bullet connectors to a motor was undone, may have happened in the crash, but It would explain the spiral dive.

What do you guys mean by making sure that the ESCs are throttle matched?

Luke
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Old Nov 13, 2011, 06:23 PM
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My method of obtaining two matched ESCs for my twins is to always use brand new ESCs purchased two together. This improves the chances that I get two ESCS from the same manufacturing batch that are therefore matched. I have built and flown seven twins so far and this method has given me trouble free flying.

Ken
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