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Old Mar 21, 2011, 09:47 PM
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Stevens Aeromodel 1918 Hergt

Just finished up my Stevens Aeromodel 1918 Hergt this evening. It is my first 2.4G model and it's also my first micro model. Hopefully it flies well, can't wait to try it out! I saw this at the wram show and knew it was coming home with me.
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 08:39 AM
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Blacksburg, VA 24060 USA
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james1787,

It looks very good. I've been curious about this kit recently. What are you using for power and propeller? What's the weight ready to fly? What's the wing covering? How is the cowling built? Details!

Jim R.
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 09:07 AM
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Hi Jim,

Thanks for the compliments! I'll get the stats when I get home from work and will report back, but they had a flight pack they sold in their booth at the show. It was a parkzone flight pack. It had a board that has the servos, esc & receiver on one board. I forget if the prop/motor was parkzone.. again I have all the packaging / specs sitting on my workbench. They also sold the covering, which I believe is solite. The wings are only covered on the top.

Edit:
Jim, I found the aircraft on their website. If you scroll down a bit, and click on the "package deal" tab, you'll see the exact components that are in the plane. The esc-servos-receiver and motor are all parkzone, the prop is an e-flite 130x70. I'm also looking at the 1926 farman.. another nice looking plane!
http://www.stevensaero.com/StevensAe...4-p-20516.html
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 06:48 PM
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james1787,

Yes, I have all the specs from the Stevens Aero Web site, including the Parkzone brick, motor, etc. What I'd like to know is how much your airplane weighs, there being a wide range of weights, as different builders use more or less glue of various types, different kinds of covering, paint, etc.

Jim R.
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 10:10 PM
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Hi James,

I got the Hergt and the Farman, I just haven't gotten around to even looking at them yet. Your's looks very nice. I hope when I get going mine comes out as well.

I've had the Peter Rake plans for the Farman for years, in both 24 inch span and reduced to 12 inches and also his own 12 inch version, now I've got the Stevens kit for it too. I hope to get this one flying!

Pete
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Old Mar 23, 2011, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRuggiero View Post
james1787,

Yes, I have all the specs from the Stevens Aero Web site, including the Parkzone brick, motor, etc. What I'd like to know is how much your airplane weighs, there being a wide range of weights, as different builders use more or less glue of various types, different kinds of covering, paint, etc.

Jim R.
Ahh.. that is a good question. I don't really own a scale to measure the weight my aircraft with but I suppose that is something good to have around. I generally try to use glue sparingly and the covering I have for it was purchased with the aircraft as the reccommended covering. A scale seems like it would be a good thing to have, especially with the lighter aircraft.
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Old Mar 23, 2011, 05:00 PM
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looks great.
What is the silver on the cowl?
Looking forward to a flight report/video thanks!
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Old Apr 03, 2011, 12:27 PM
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I have built 4 of these kits, The Flea, LiddleRod, Farman Postale and am just finishing the Hergt. These are really nicely cut kits. They do take some care when assembling, simply because the parts are so small, you need to have the right tools and some hints would be good too. They all use the Vapor brick, the P-51 motor and the Champ prop. They all fly really well. Several of my friends have built the Stevens UMs also and we have had a blast with them indoors this winter. These are a far better idea than trying to convert an old Comet or Guillows rubber kit to r/c, unless you are an expert builder.
I am thinking about writing a 'tools and techniques' thread for these kit builds.
Louie

Louie
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Old Apr 03, 2011, 12:29 PM
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Louie,

That thread would be great. I had a chance to see these models first hand at the Toledo show this past weekend. They are on the list of future builds, so your thread idea would be warmly welcomed. Videos too.
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Old Apr 04, 2011, 04:53 PM
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I've got a draft of the post ready, it's about three pages long. I would have to take some photos. I am wondering if I should start a new thread and make this a sticky at the top, so it won't get lost.
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Old Apr 04, 2011, 07:58 PM
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Sure, that sounds good.
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Old Apr 04, 2011, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Louierc View Post
I have built 4 of these kits, The Flea, LiddleRod, Farman Postale and am just finishing the Hergt. These are really nicely cut kits. They do take some care when assembling, simply because the parts are so small, you need to have the right tools and some hints would be good too. They all use the Vapor brick, the P-51 motor and the Champ prop. They all fly really well. Several of my friends have built the Stevens UMs also and we have had a blast with them indoors this winter. These are a far better idea than trying to convert an old Comet or Guillows rubber kit to r/c, unless you are an expert builder.
I am thinking about writing a 'tools and techniques' thread for these kit builds.
Louie

Louie
Louie, you seem to have a lot of experience with these kits. I am going to purchase the Skybuggy 100 as my first ever kit build. I have two UM J-3 Cubs sitting around and I would like to use the brick, motor, gearbox, and prop off of one of them. Do you know if that is possible? I know the brick is the same as the one they recommend, but I am unsure about the motor, gear box, and prop.

I have already emailed them directly to ask, but if someone here can give me a yay or nay I will go ahead and place my order accordingly. Thanks!
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Old Apr 05, 2011, 02:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Louierc View Post
, you need to have the right tools and some hints would be good too.
Louie
Many of the Stevens Aero kits have supplemental photo instructions available on their website.
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Old Apr 05, 2011, 06:16 AM
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Triple - the brick from a Cub will be fine. There are no published specs on the motors that I know of other than the planes they are used in. The Cub motor is only a 6 mm size and uses a smaller prop. The P-51 / T-28 motor is one of the larger ones at 8.5mm and costs $14.xx with the gearbox, PKZ3624. The correct prop is the 130 x 70 used on the Champ (HBZ4901), P-51 and T-28 (EFL9051). Since the Skybuggy weighs 2 oz (over 50 gms !) it will be really underpowered with the Cub motor.

Keep in mind that the balsa kits are a little larger and heavier than the molded foam Parkzone models - the Cub has a wing area of 47 sq in and weighs 26 gms whereas the Skybuggy has 100 sq in wing and weighs twice as much - more power is required.
Send me your email address and I will send a copy of the 'tools and tips' doc I am working on. Louie
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Old Apr 05, 2011, 08:23 AM
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Tools and Tips for Building the Stevens AeroModel UM Kits

The Stevens AeroModel UM kits http://www.stevensaero.com/UltraMicr...p-1-c-336.html are ideal indoor flyers for your winter season indoor events and fly well outside in low-wind conditions. They are inexpensive and very well thought out laser cut kits, complete with hardware. Detailed assembly instructions are printed on the plans or contained in a separate booklet. All are designed for use with the Vapor (PKZ3351) or AR6400 (SPMAR6400) bricks, making them easy to BNF to the JR/Spektrum system.

Having built a number of these kits I’d like to offer some helpful advice about building and setting these up to fly.

Required Building Tools: I strongly suggest that you have the following items available when building these kits -

1. Thin and medium CA. Get some add-on tiny tips or Teflon tubing for your CA bottles. The parts are SMALL and only a small amount of CA is required for the joints. More importantly, most of the building is done on a flat surface covered with waxed paper (to protect the surface or plans) and too much CA leads to a lot of time peeling the paper off the plane and the plane off your fingers!
2. Waxed paper to cover the work surface and/or plans.
3. A new Xacto blade, and if you can find one, a surgical scalpel. A scalpel has its own #11 styled blade, which is VERY sharp and thin, it makes the Xacto look bulky by comparison. This works best for cutting the tiny tabs holding the laser cut parts since the laser cuts are so small.
4. Some #400 grit wet/dry paper used to lightly sand the sheets before removing the parts, and a fine grit sponge-type sanding block.
5. Tweezers – for prodding some small parts, and a small pair of needle nose pliers for cutting and bending wire.
6. Blue painter’s tape (low tack), in a 1” or similar width.
7. Small Velcro tab for mounting the battery. I have used the self-stick type, or installed Velcro with a small dab of various glues.
8. Hinge tape – I have been using Blenderm tape, which looks like hinge tape and is available at the pharmacy in the Band-Aid section.

Required Parts: These are the general items required for each kit. Some kits may vary.

1. The Stevens UM kit, of course. At the time of this writing there are 11 kits available.
2. The brick – A Vapor brick is good for most of the kits (PKZ3351 or similar). These can be bought new, used at online forums or salvaged from a trashed plane. The AR6400 or AR6400L (long throw) style brick may also be used. It has an extra connector for one or two aileron servos, which are not required for (most of) the UM kits. Programming may be required to mix the aileron stick to the rudder servo if you use this brick.
3. The motor – most kits are designed for the 8.5 mm P-51 Motor and gearbox (PKZ3624) and the Champ (HBZ4901) or T-28 (EFL9051) 130 x 70 mm prop, all of which can be bought cheaply online. You might want to go with new parts here instead of used, unless you can check out the condition of these. The smaller 6 mm motor off the Vapor does not have adequate power for these models.
4. Covering film – I have used the Stevens AeroLITE film for all of my builds. Other covering materials may be also be suitable, but two issues – it should be lightweight, and it is possible that some heavier films could distort or crush the models when shrinking.
5. Battery – The larger P-51 motor / ESC does better with a 125, 150 or 160 mAh single cell battery instead of the 70 mAh battery that comes with the Vapor.

Building Tips:

1. First of all – these are SMALL planes with SMALL parts. If you have not built anything like this before, just go slowly, make sure you have good lighting and a smooth work surface.
2. Follow the plans – they are very good. Read everything through first.
3. Take your time and make sure you understand where and how each part fits before gluing. The parts are small and fragile – you don’t want to try to take them back apart. Use a tiny tip on your CA bottle – it will save your fingers and work surface.
4. Cut the parts out of the sheets as you need them with a very thin blade.
5. In some cases you may want to lightly sand the tiny bumps where the laser cuts stop to make the parts fit better.
6. Don’t try to force the tabs into the slots – you’ll just crush the balsa. Pinch the tabs with your fingertips or tweezers and they will go in.
7. The blue low tack painters tape is helpful when a balsa part needs to be curved or wrapped. Cut the tape to a smaller width, like ½” or less, and use it to wrap over the balsa part like a cockpit or cowl while gluing.
8. On the wing ribs and sheeting, in many cases you will attach the rear tip of a rib first, then the curved front to the wing sheet. The front edge of the wing sheet can be bent around the top of the rib by rolling it down on your (protected) building surface and gluing it while you hold it.
9. Some kits come with a white plastic GWS type spoked wheel. Balsa disks are included to glue on both sides to make them solid. This works pretty well and is lightweight. The landing gear wire is, however, much smaller than the wheel axle holes, so a bushing is required. K&S 1/16” OD brass tubing is just the ticket. Check to see that it fits over the gear wire. Cut a short length, about .250”-.300”, and deburr the ends with a small drill bit. If needed, drill the wheels to 1/16” and push the tubing through the hub. Add the balsa disks and carefully glue around the edges. Slide the finished wheel on a short scrap of gear wire that has been crimped on one end (or a round toothpick) so it will wedge on tight and spin it in your drill while lightly sanding the balsa disks to a taper at the edges. Apply paint to finish.
10. Many planes have a sandwich of three ply layers where the gear wire slips into a slot followed by a thin ply retainer. Be very careful here with the CA. It is very easy to fill up the wire pocket to where the parts will not fit. Assembling this dry or just using CA on one part until it is complete is best.
11. Make up the servo pushrods carefully so the lengths are correct. Center the servos and attach the pushrods before finalizing the joints.
12. Make sure the motor is installed with right thrust as shown on the plans and on the plywood motor mounting plate.
13. Covering – the AeroLITE covering material works well for these models and is available by the roll or in a small ‘PatchPak’. Some models have a dotted covering outline on the plans, where just the hole in the wing can be covered (again, it’s all about weight). Trace or photocopy this and cut the covering to match. This material is very light, almost transparent and comes with a clear backing on it that has to be peeled off, and this can be hard to get started. To get the backing off, use two loops of blue tape on opposite sides right at a corner and you should be able to pull the layers apart. The covering sticks to itself, so handle it carefully, (tweezers help). Use your covering iron on low heat to tack and shrink. Remove any twist in the wing by heating the covering. Washout helps on some models.
14. Painting – many of the models just have color in the wing covering materials. You can also use acrylic water based paints on some areas of the plane, especially where there are compound curves that are hard to cover, like the nose of the Farman Postale or the Hergt cowl. Paint adds weight, and you might want to avoid thin sections where warps could be a problem, like on the elevator or rudder. These are inexpensive and available from any crafts store. On some models like the Farman Postale, which I covered with silver AeroLITE, I lightly sprayed the wing with silver spray paint before covering to make it match. It looks great top and bottom.
15. Trim – small sections of the covering material may be cut out to use for trim. It is delicate work with small scissors or a very sharp tool, and here you might want to use trim material or decals.

Trimming and Flying:

1. Check to see that everything is straight.
2. Make sure you have set up the linkage so that the servos are centered when the flying surfaces are neutral. If not, slice off the shrink tube over the wire joint and redo it.
3. Make sure the motor runs in the correct direction.
4. Set up your TX with plenty of expo, at least 25%.
5. Check for warps, particularly in the wing, and correct it. Check for warps in the rudder and elevator and set the sub trims in your TX for neutral settings.
6. Make sure the CG is correct. The plans and the wings are marked at the CG point.
7. If you can, weigh your model on a small or postal scale. Up to 40 gms seems to be OK for the larger models (Flea, Farman) or up to 50 gms (SkyBuggy), with 25 gms being the lower end (LiddleRod).
8. Some of these models may require full power for takeoff (may want to ground loop) but most fly better at 50-70% throttle.
9. Special Case: The S-POU (Flying Flea) – this is an unusual plane, to say the least, and gets everyone’s attention when you fly it. The linkage to the wing MUST be set up correctly and slop-free for to fly at its best. It is touchy on pitch (wing / elevator) so use a light touch and plenty of expo, 50% is a start. It flies best at about ½ throttle and will really loop.
10. Special Case: The Farman Postale has a large wing area (100 sq inches) is light and flies slower than some others, it is a floater.

Good Luck ! Louie
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