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Old Nov 24, 2012, 03:50 PM
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LOL...thats how I'm lookin at it..plus, its the little guys that keep hobbies alive, because of their passion for it, we gotta support em..
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Old Nov 26, 2012, 07:35 AM
How high will it go?
antslake's Avatar
Greenwood Lake NY
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Since you guys seem to know so much more than me about water jets, can someone explain what impeller to stator relationship does? Also, I was having trouble with mine getting "air bound" after hopping out of waves. I am uploading a video now, but have to run to work. Will post later.

I actually took it all apart again and I am designing a new "bolt-on" intake grate. After studying my PWC's one.
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Old Nov 26, 2012, 08:21 AM
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It creates a radial swirl to the exiting water..to create a suction to the exiting water, to help pull the new water thru.. in the case of our cheap little jets, we dont have a true impeller, nor a true stator, but, the principle is the same, effect is the same, just less of it in our jet config.

Full size, and even 1/4 scale rc jets will have true impellers, 2, and even 3 stage pumps, along with stators to match..

As I am a complete idiot, I will mod ANYTHING..

But, there aint much you could, and can, do to these jets to improve them by any percentage, good bearing areas, smooth the flow path, play with impeller to stator clearance..is about it.

I'm gonna play with a wear/clearance ring next time, see if that does anything.
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Old Nov 26, 2012, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by chidago View Post
smooth the flow path, play with impeller to stator clearance...
This made the biggest difference with mine. I cleaned up the sharp edges inside the intake with a dremel grinding stone and made sure the impeller was as close to the stator as possible. It hops a wave or rapid and primes itself again almost instantly as soon as it hits the water.
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Old Nov 26, 2012, 06:56 PM
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I agree, Fire, I'm runnin .010 clearance, was at .006, likes .010 better
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Old Nov 27, 2012, 09:40 AM
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Ayrshire, Scotland
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Originally Posted by chidago View Post
For those who HAVEN'T got a nqd yet, DONT...get Steves boat, much better quality, and, at the end of the day, the $$ will be the same, or cheaper..
I am all for supporting Steve for all the reasons you mention, but I query your assertion that the $$ will be the same or cheaper. I realise it depends on the strength of individual national currencies and the cost of shipping (which will be less to the USA than the UK) but even so..

My two stock boats came from HongKong.They cost 33 ($53) each and shipping was free. You gave a link to an even cheaper US source recently. Putting in Graupner shaft/impeller combos and oilite bearings front and rear once I had the stock boats cost another 6 ($10) per boat and a night's work.

Contrast that with the cost of getting a single SicRC hull kit and modified drive (plus a spare flexshaft /impeller) from Steve. Including carriage (which was nearly the same cost as the parts) that cost me 97 all in - say $156.
From that point on, the costs of brushless motor, ESC, Lipos, radio etc. will be the same for either hull.

All of which doesn't dim my enthusiam for his stuff. It's just your maths I am querying. That was the reason for my #633.
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Old Nov 27, 2012, 11:04 AM
How high will it go?
antslake's Avatar
Greenwood Lake NY
Joined Oct 2003
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Ok here is my video, it's long and boring, so you only have to watch the beginning. At the end, it started hooking up better because it was taking on water. When I assembled the boat, I forgot to add the spacer on the transom, and no amount of sealant could correct it. I was adding sealant before I realized I left out the spacer. It's all apart again, and I am trying something new. I will mess with the stator/impeller clearance, and with the new intake I am making hopefully it will work better. It's a 2600kv motor on 3s. The speed is pretty good.

NQD modded (14 min 33 sec)
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Old Nov 27, 2012, 11:08 AM
How high will it go?
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Greenwood Lake NY
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I am using the proboat 60 amp ESC, and I think it has a soft start enabled or something, it was hard to control the acceleration. I also went out of range a few times, I have to put the HK 2.4 antenna through the hull I guess to improve reception.
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Old Nov 27, 2012, 11:44 AM
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Mad, I am factoring the ADDITIONAL parts you would have to buy to equal Steves boat..you have a choice of colors, lets paint cost out, better roll bar, better hatch, no cut out of the deck to do, seal comes with, etc.

As far as having a finished boat, and its total cost, the numbers will come out real close, close enough to support one of our own..

Hobbies are alive because of the little guy, not the labor mills in china.

If its $5-10 more to deal with Steve, I wouls rather help him feed his family, than save $10..
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Old Nov 27, 2012, 03:20 PM
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Ayrshire, Scotland
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Originally Posted by chidago View Post
Mad, I am factoring the ADDITIONAL parts you would have to buy to equal Steves boat..you have a choice of colors, lets paint cost out, better roll bar, better hatch, no cut out of the deck to do, seal comes with, etc.
If its $5-10 more to deal with Steve, I wouls rather help him feed his family, than save $10..
What ADDITIONAL parts?
You only have a choice of a black or white hull at present (no mopar purple, for example, so most people would be repainting it), the roll bar is not that great as it comes and the seal is not as good as most up-market radio hatch seals. I, for one, will be replacing it when I get around to building it up. And if you can't even cut the deck on the stock boat you probably wouldn't be up for modifying it anyway.

That said, I think the thicker material is good and the better hatch and retainers are a definite 100 percent plus although a model boat shop or home store could provide something close to those hold-downs for a couple of dollars. For the rest (roll bar etc.) most modellers could make those changes themselves for a lot less if they wanted.

Everything else after that, I say again, is common to any modded jet boat.

The point is, it's not $5 or $10 more. By the time it arrives in the UK it's over $100 more than a stock one. I know almost half of the purchase price goes to the Oz post, so it's not lining Steve's pocket. But it's coming out of mine. Maybe the costs are different in the USA. Anyway, we're all entitled to our opinions and I say again, I still like his stuff.

Have you got yours yet? And the KMB?
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Old Nov 27, 2012, 05:32 PM
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Well, here to me, its $72.00..and, it comes in red too, by the way.

Cant answer the cost to you...no, the KMB hasnt arrived, its in the post, so, thats its own mystery, and it seems the motor I want to use for that drive is on forever backorder from HK, so, its like the 50's, order, pay, and wait till the cows come home..
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Old Nov 27, 2012, 08:00 PM
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Ant, nice long vid !! only things I see out of the gate are, porpoising, hopping, in other words, which is easily fixed by moving some weight forward,
And, realizing that the boat is waaay to short to stay hooked up in any chop like you are running it in..add that to the porpoising, and you get what you got..

Reminds me of riding my sea doo on Lake michigan on a windy day..lol

These are ideally suited for rock crawling in the rapids..not lake runnin, but, I like you, wanna do both..you'll get it, and it sounds and runs good.
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 08:22 AM
How high will it go?
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Greenwood Lake NY
Joined Oct 2003
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I am not sure if it is porpoising or just jumping waves, because in the stream area where there was little waves it ran fine. I put the weight towards the back because I read somewhere about the boat working better that way. Once it is calm out, I will play with it more. I can move the battery around a bit.

I noticed the trailing edge of the propeller (impeller) on both the stock one, and the one I modded, is not parallel to the stator. It has a rake to it. I wonder if machining that down, and then moving the impeller closer would help? Because like you were saying you run .010 clearance, but that must be at the tips of the impeller. The gap is larger the closer to the hub you get.
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 10:07 AM
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Ant, I cant answer for the nqd jet..my Graupner was plumb on the thrust line
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 02:39 PM
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Vancouver, BC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by antslake View Post
I am not sure if it is porpoising or just jumping waves, because in the stream area where there was little waves it ran fine. I put the weight towards the back because I read somewhere about the boat working better that way. Once it is calm out, I will play with it more. I can move the battery around a bit.

I noticed the trailing edge of the propeller (impeller) on both the stock one, and the one I modded, is not parallel to the stator. It has a rake to it. I wonder if machining that down, and then moving the impeller closer would help? Because like you were saying you run .010 clearance, but that must be at the tips of the impeller. The gap is larger the closer to the hub you get.
Try moving your battery forward a bit. Mine sits just in front of the motor across the width of the hull. (parallel to the transom) This puts it about in the center of the hull.

I think chidago is measuring impeller hub to stator clearance. You may have some sharp edges in your intake that are causing your issue, or your shaft seal is not good enough and air is being drawn through the shaft seal. Try greasing your shaft. lol
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