|Nov 12, 2012, 12:11 PM|
Hi again fellas,
Still waiting for my boat, I hate the waiting game.
My next question is servos. I have a couple here I can use but I'm just wondering what your thoughts are.
The one I initially thought I would use is a Hitec 5645 which I know will be plenty for the simple task. Probable overkill. It's a spare for my scale truck.
Motor Type: 3 Pole
Bearing Type: Dual Ball Bearing
Speed (4.8V/6.0V): 0.23 / 0.18
Torque oz./in. (4.8V/6.0V): 143 / 168
Torque kg./cm. (4.8V/6.0V): 10.3 / 12.1
Size in Inches: 1.59 x 0.77 x 1.48
Size in Millimeters: 40.39 x 19.56 x 37.59
Weight ounces: 2.11
Weight grams: 59.82
I also have a handful of Hitec HS-55 mini servos that I use with my planes. These ones are obviously a lot less powerful in comparison to the above. My question though is it still powerful enough? How much power is needed to turn the jet when it has the water pressure on it?
Motor Type: Coreless
Bearing Type: None
Speed (4.8V/6.0V): 0.17 / 0.14 sec @ 60 deg.
Torque oz./in. (4.8V/6.0V): 15 / 18
Torque kg./cm. (4.8V/6.0V): 1.08 / 1.30
Size in Inches: 0.89 x 0.45 x 0.94
Size in Millimeters: 22.61 x 11.43 x 23.88
Weight ounces: 0.28
Weight grams: 7.94
|Nov 12, 2012, 02:05 PM|
Under the circumstances I might use the big servo if is it going spare. Whichever you use, bear in mind that you only need about 5mm of travel to go from lock to lock so one or the other may be more suitable for that reason. I know you can restrict movement at the Tx but it's never as good as doing it by a mechanical linkage - ie a very short arm on the servo.
|Nov 12, 2012, 02:40 PM|
Cheers madbugger, might just go with the bigger one than seeing as I am running a watercooled ESC. I have loads of servo horns so I'll make sure to use a small one or even drill a hole if need be.
Fingers crossed the boat and remaining bits show up tomorrow as I'm off on wednesday and can get her put together. Probably won't even run it in stock trim.
|Nov 12, 2012, 03:33 PM|
|Nov 12, 2012, 05:26 PM|
Yeah, me, a have a full size 3003 futaba, its what I had layin around, guys are using minis with no issue, tho..me, I'm old school, more is better..
DO make sure you dont over travel the linkage, set your trim accordingly, or, you can snap the steering arm off the nozzle..I am using the lowest hole on the servo arm, WITH some dual rate adjustment still, and its stop to stop..
|Nov 12, 2012, 05:45 PM|
Tiernan 85 / Preceding 2 posts go to prove what I was saying. Either servo would do. I've got a mini in one of mine and and old Fut 3003 in the other. When I get round to completing the SicRC one I'll just use whatever is at the top of the spares box at the time.
chidago / One thing about the old Futaba ones - they seem to be difficult to kill - cope with getting soaked etc.even without waterproofing - although a coating of Plastidip is always a good 'belt and braces' move.
chidago, any news on the kmb front?
|Nov 12, 2012, 07:28 PM|
Joined Dec 2011
My NQD Build buddy codes
My NQD Build buddy codes
HK-B70A Hobbyking SS Boat Series 70A ESC
TGY-390DMH TGY-390DMH High Performance MG Digital Servo
4800-2040SL 2040SL 4800kv Brushless Inrunner (WaterCooled)
Hope my build goes well!!!
|Nov 13, 2012, 09:14 AM|
Joined Jul 2006
Forget the 70 hk esc. I read there there seems to be alot of questions pretaining to operation of the 70 esc. Now for $10.00, i'd get the HK 115/125 esc and never look back. I have one and runs great. Never know when you might need a bigger esc. Before you plug battery in , hook up everything first and pull trigger to for forward motion and release to neutral and then hook up battery and ready to go and no program card needed as it is plug and play.
|Nov 13, 2012, 11:43 AM|
Joined Aug 2009
Those ESC's are way overkill, especially with a 2040 motor.
My 2448 on 3S draws maybe 10-15A at the most. The SeaKing 35A is perfect for these boats.
|Nov 13, 2012, 12:41 PM|
My response from kmb..
Angebot - Offer Nr. 2012079
Menge Art.-Nr. Text Einzelpreis
1,00 Stück JSE111 Jet-Sprint-Boot, eck.Cockpit kompl.mit Einsatz
incl. 1 x 28-mm-Jet, rollbar B01, motordummy, 2 seats
1,00 Stück B02 Überrollbügel - Doppelverstrebung f. Sprint-Boot
1,00 Stück JET2805a rundes Steuerteil 6,72 6,72
1,00 Stück JET2808 28-mm-Jet-Stator (Ersatzteil) 2,52 2,52
1,00 Stück JET2809 28-mm-Jet-Impeller auf Welle (Ersatzteil) 8,40 8,40
1,00 Stück JET2810 28-mm-Jet-Kugellager (Ersatzteil) 2,77 2,77
1,00 Stück MH12 Alu-Adapterflansch f. Mot. 25mm Lochabstand 10,92 10,92
1,00 Stück KUP2 Hochlastkupplung 5 / 4 mm
Power Grip Coupling 5 / 4 mm
1,00 Stück SER55 Servoansteuerung rechts/links für 1 Jet
1x Servohalter SER04, 1x Bowdenzug BOW1, 1x
Kugelkopfgelenke KG02, 2x Gestängeverbinder
1,00 Stück B03 Überrollbügel - für Stingray
part of the rollbar (DieHard)
1,00 Stück ZUB32 Steuerrad 32 mm, Kunststoff 0,00 0,00
zzgl. Handling + Shipping taxfree / Versandkosten Ausland steuerfrei 39,60
Thats $ 353.30 to me..
No motor, or radio gear at all in that, just boat, all fittings from them, extra stator, impeller, bearings, etc.
|Nov 13, 2012, 02:53 PM|
Joined Dec 2011
Sorry I never build anything to stay where it is so i pretty much buy bigger esc's encase i transplant them into something else bigger, You can always go big and use 10% but you cant go small and use 200% as in the 35amp vs 70amp
Just my 2 c
EDIT - Sorry I am also buying a bigger jet eventually and at the same time replacing the motor and going for 2x3cell batteries in parallel or maybe even the 2x2cell in series, I am using all Traxxas connections and have the adapters already.
|Nov 13, 2012, 03:13 PM|
Thanks for the previous replies fellas.
My question now is where can a get a coupler that is 2.3 to 2.3?
My boat came in today. I'm happy it's here but it's got some work to be done lol.
Some misc melted plastic on it here and there, but it's only cosmetic.
I tore everything out of it right away. Decided to just give the jet a quick blip to ensure everything is ok... Oh boy... talk about VIBRATIONS!!! Some minor impeller damage occurred even with the quick little blip the throttle got. I have a couple spare though.
I've tracked it down to the coupler. It's WAY outta whack. I measured the wall thickness on one side as it even looked visually off. One side measured 2.59mm and the other side 2.36mm. So someone had a few too many when drilling it out lol.
I'm hoping that's the only thing that's wrong and that the shaft is still straight as it seemed to have taken some serious abuse in those couple seconds..
Perhaps I'll just buy a spare jet drive and hope that coupler is better? The coupler I found on ebay is 11 bucks shipped. I can get a complete jet unit for24 shipped.
|Nov 13, 2012, 04:00 PM|
|Nov 13, 2012, 04:20 PM|
After all while I, like you, am old school (as in more is better, although you missed out the next line - 'and too much is just enough!') it is nevertheless the case that most full-size and model racing formula depend on restricting things in one way or another to make for fairer and more affordable racing. I think the sight of 6 NQDS racing round a lake course would beat the sight of one KMB boat all on its lonesome - no matter how awesome it was.
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