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Old Feb 22, 2013, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by chidago View Post
Neb, WHY are you trying to stiffen the hull? its the flex in it that allows the crawling potential..aint stiff, wont break...
Somewhere I read that people were trying things to stiffen the hull up a bit, to prevent cracking... so I went with it. I have no reason other than that to believe you need to stiffen the hull... if its not a necessity, then maybe I won't do it.
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Old Feb 22, 2013, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by madbugger View Post
You will find a lot of crawlers like to use gorilla glue, shoegoo or sprayfoam to reinforce it a bit at the same time as adding floatation. At least that's why I learned from 7car7, Fire and others. We tend to run into rocks. Hard. Stops some damage and means the hull doesn't fill with water if the worst happens.

John, the sprayfoam I was talking about (which I use) was the expanding stuff used for filling gaps in construction jobs. If you meant spray underseal I can't help. No experience of using that in modelling.
Yeah the stuff I am talking about would add a little weight, but stiffen up the hull a bit, making it stronger, for impact damage. It might also fill in the cracks between the 2 halves of the hull to make it a bit more water tight.
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Old Feb 22, 2013, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Nebey View Post
Yeah the stuff I am talking about would add a little weight, but stiffen up the hull a bit, making it stronger, for impact damage. It might also fill in the cracks between the 2 halves of the hull to make it a bit more water tight.
Try to get those 2 halves apart! I'm trying on the stock NQD I have. So far, NO LUCK. I'm tempted to think that joint is stronger than the rest of the boat, and unlikely to leak, but what the heck. We are all customizing a $40 toy, and in many, many different ways.

Enjoy

John in Merrill
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Old Feb 22, 2013, 10:35 AM
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A LITTLE, key word little, is the key, its gotta flex not to break..too stiff, it will hole..key to the flex is it gives before it splits..and flexing transfers inertia..just like a crumple zone in a car..spread the force, nothin important breaks, difference is, steel doesnt snap BACK..lol

I tried to split the deck and hull too, way different than the radio gear glue, its a true epoxy, only way is heat, but, the deck/hull will warp way before it gives..
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Old Feb 22, 2013, 10:38 AM
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John - If you find a way, let us all know. People have been trying without success since the thread began. I think you're right. Most rigid part of the boat
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Old Feb 22, 2013, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by chidago View Post
A LITTLE, key word little, is the key, its gotta flex not to break..too stiff, it will hole..key to the flex is it gives before it splits..and flexing transfers inertia..just like a crumple zone in a car..spread the force, nothin important breaks, difference is, steel doesnt snap BACK..lol
With you there. The methods crawlers have used still allow a lot of flex by comparison with e.g. fiberglas which as you've pointed out is not suitable for crawling. Roll on Steve's plastic clone for the 533mm one
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Old Feb 22, 2013, 10:46 AM
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These are the reasons why I post my thought's on here... Never done one before, and sometimes what seems to be a good idea in your head is a waste of time and money... thanks guys.
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Old Feb 22, 2013, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Nebey View Post
These are the reasons why I post my thought's on here... Never done one before, and sometimes what seems to be a good idea in your head is a waste of time and money... thanks guys.
Modelling is the best waste of both. And I'm sure most of us wouldn't have it any other way
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Old Feb 22, 2013, 11:18 AM
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When talking about auto undercoating, (or the stuff on TV - "WAIT! I'm not done! Buy in the next 10 minutes and I'll give you TWO cans!") Keep in mind that there are two types. The plastic based stuff, that actually really dries, and the tar based stuff, that actually stays sticky and oily.

Make sure you know what one you're getting. (the plastic good stuff will often say "paintable" on the can. The tar stuff is NOT paintable.)

However, with all that said, I would avoid using any of this stuff on these boats. There is no floatation value to it.
That's why some of us have used gorilla glue or the spray can stuff (expanding). It floats.

I don't think there's a huge case supporting the idea of needing to stiffen the hull, however, the spray foam or Gorilla glue will still give when hitting a rock, it sort of absorbs hits just like a modern car's styrofoam bumper (behind the outer plastic shell). And like mentioned, if a crack does happen, it's likely that the foam will still seal it, and the water will never come inside.
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Old Feb 22, 2013, 11:20 AM
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Pretty much..lol I have so many hrs in this little thing, I coulda built the queen mary..seriously, but, I'm a idiot with things, I take everything where it aint supposed to go..then back it down a hair, and wait for it to blow..

I have over 8 hrs. in the bottom on mine, truing it, changing the hook, etc..at the end of the day, it dont matter, its a 20 buck pool toy..the only thing possibly that helps is a little bigger pad, which is done by heating the plastic, and forming it flatter forward of the jet intake..a real pain..does it help? honestly, I dunno..

For crawlin, its all good, just worry about a reliable and durable powertrain.

After that, its all BS.

As a lake boat, its never gonna be good, too little, cavitates too easy, to hard to see, and the jet is too small to make it fly.

If you want a flat water boat, bigger hull, bigger jet, bigger money..
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Old Feb 22, 2013, 11:38 AM
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United States, WI, Merrill
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Speaking of wasting time and money............................... Have any of you thought of adding some lighting to you boats? I am getting some for my Coast Guard rescue themed NQD. This place http://www.ramrcandramtrack.com/ has a TON of different LED lighting options for planes, helis, cars and trucks, and BOATS!

John in Merrill
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Old Feb 22, 2013, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by jgestner View Post
adding some lighting to you boats?
I've got 2 12v car reverse led lights, to seal them up i just poured a bit of glue over them.

I have it on the top of the roof as a kind of search light.. very very bright... stil thinking about making the lights servo controlled.. but then it would make it pretty topheavy.

I run on 3s lipo, so connected to the battery, no extra bec or something like that.
The ones u plug into the receiver or some other 5-7 volt leds, mostly are not bright enoug for my use.

From banggood, very cheap..

they have smaller ones to for your rear break light or license plate lights.

Cheap cheap.....


And by the way.. i ran the same tear into patrol boat in a pool and hit the front and the hull/deck did split open for about 4 cm. so i poured 5 min. epoxy in the emptied hull and let it flow around the hull/deck connection to ensure it will not happen again.
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Old Feb 22, 2013, 12:35 PM
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Ok, I need some advice from you electronic gurus.

I've been dying to get a higher KV motor.

I'm running a 2040 KV2100 right now.
This is my ESC...
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...C_3A_UBEC.html

If I buy a new motor, they would be appx $20-$30 for a nice 3500ish KV.
It's a bit tough to find a 2040 in a better KV for these boats, The better KV motors seem to be 24 size, not 20mm.
I already have water cooling set up.

If I went with a 24 size, I'd need a new water jacket.

SO, get to the point already, will ya!?

What if I ran what I have on a 4 cell battery instead of a 3 cell?
What would that put my current 2100kv motor at? Would it be close to running a 3200-3500 on 3 cell?

Point of all this, if it wasn't glaringly clear, I can buy a couple batteries in 4 cell for what could be less price than a motor upgrade.
Mission accomplished? Or not?
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Old Feb 22, 2013, 12:46 PM
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Ok, I may have answered my own question after I thought about it a bit, and got out the calculator. If my math is correct, running my motor on a 4 cell would be the same as running a 2800 on 3 cell - correct?

Still, curious on some thoughts.
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Old Feb 22, 2013, 02:27 PM
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[QUOTE=7car7;24216669]Ok, I may have answered my own question /QUOTE]

But is your 2040 supposed to able to run on 4s anyway. If, like most 2040s available in the UK, it's specified for 2s/3s use then running on 4s will probably reduce it to smokin' crap in short order. And it might smoke your 30amp ESC into the bargain. At which point it has become an expensive experiment. It's not like it was in NiCd/NiMh days when one could risk adding another cell or even two. With lipos its 3.7v more at a time.

In the UK 2040s are available in winds from 1200 to 4700Kv cheaply whereas 4s lipos are (relatively) expensive. From what you say the situation in the US is the other way round. Either way, a better 2040 or failing that, if it's easier to source, a bigger dia motor but sticking with the 3s and your present ESC might prove a better (=cheaper) option in the long run
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