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Old Feb 16, 2013, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by chidago View Post
AAAAARGH...hate nothin to do, had all those boats to build, now, zero..

Best I got is to do a smaller nozzle for the red kmb..

Wish Steve would get his thing done.. :

If you are really bored you could spray the gold and black on my white "Ghetto Cruiser" NQD.

John in Merrill
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 07:20 PM
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Mad, they all went in their white suits..lol..all identical, except for mine..

And the only dif is the Graupner.


John, I'm good..I have enough paint work now for about 2 years..
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 02:58 PM
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Hi Gang
I am starting to get some paint work going. Certainly not perfect, and certainly not done, but enough to see the concept a little better.

Still struggling with the USCG Logo in the racing stripes. So far I have them in acceptable size and color and even in a reversed version for the opposite side. I am very unsure however about gluing the paper version to the side of the boat. First getting it sealed on well, and then getting a nice gloss finish over them to protect them. They are laser printed at least, so it won't be susceptible to Inkjet inks bleeding. I'll take some thoughts from you if you have some ideas.

John in Merrill
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 03:55 PM
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Hi, hope its ok to break into this thread. I know I am a bit of a late comer after getting on for nearly 2000 posts!!.

Over the past weeks I have read through this from the beginning and also threads on other forums (rcu)….phew….

I have recently got an nqd jetboat and while searching for the bits for an upgrade I’ve run it a few times in stock form,
and made up 7/8 cell N500AR packs, old but unused cells (they were top 400 pylon race cells 15years ago ).
I’m not looking for an open water speed machine but a slower boat working in shallow restricted waters and streams.

There have been a few mentions of CofG in this thread but not much specific data/advice.
The stock boat is 410mm long (exc jet nozzle), and its Cof G inc battery is 285mm back from the bow.

Where do your boats balance out? What do you pro’s find works best ?

thanks pwjo
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 03:55 PM
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Take em to your local sign shop, they can scan em and make em outta vinyl..

Or, print em on a thin plastic, glue em, clearcoat the boat.
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 05:09 PM
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Pw, welcome to the thread..

Everything changes with the mods, batt. weight, position, new, heavier motor, etc..I would have no idea myself on the stock boat..
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 05:19 PM
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[QUOTE=pwjo;24164887]Hi, hope its ok to break into this thread. I know I am a bit of a late comer after getting on for nearly 2000 posts!!.
/QUOTE]

Of course it's alright to join. That's what the thread's for. And welcome!! Especially because you took the trouble to read it all first

Up to a point, especially for stream work (rock crawlin') such as you propose to do, the further back you can get the CG, within reason, the better. The bit that does the driving and steering is at the back, and keeping the bow light will help you get around (or over) obstacles. Once you substitute more advanced radio, a different motor, and lipo's you will find the CG sorts itself and there doesn't seem be be much to choose between different setups as far as CG is concerned. With any particular motor and lipo choice you won't (after fitting them ) then be able to move it more than 10mm or 15mm either way without having to add additional weight at one end or the other, anyway. Within that limited range you can move the lipo's to get the balance where it seems to suit your particular setup and mode of use, once you've done the mods and tried in in the water. Very small changes in balance point may be important for getting max speed in lake running, but are not so important in fast-flowing streams where conditions are constantly changing. Probably not what you wanted to hear, but it's the truth.
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 06:06 PM
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Chidago & Mad, thanks for the welcome and feedback

When I install the upgrade gear I will try to keep CofG similar to stock.
However, I do notice that when stationary it floats slightly bow down yet under power it is a bit bow up.

Maybe I should move the CofG back a bit so it floats level and then, if necessary, use trim tabs to reduce any nose up attitude under power.

That brings me onto trim tabs, do I go for a small tab on either side or a central larger trim tab/ride plate under the nozzle.
My gut tells me to go for a central ride plate which i can adjust (bend!),
it will also provide some protection for the nozzle, and anyway, I am not keen of the look of separate trim tabs


Mad, you are right, the battery is the heaviest thing but movement maybe restricted by the motor and jet which are fixed.
The only way to get maximum moveability of the battery is to mount it high so it can be slid back & forth over the top of the motor/jet.

This raises another issue, the height of the centre of mass!
I notice boats flipping/rolling when the centre of mass is raised my mounting a camera on top.

O decisions decisions……..

indecisive pwjo
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 07:15 PM
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That'll do it, a cam....better be a micro cam..

Many guys run a center skid, but, my boat being used for lake also, had chine walk, so, normal tabs, made em out of stainless stock, bend to suit, boat runs square now..

DSCN1938 (2 min 49 sec)
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by pwjo View Post
Chidago & Mad, thanks for the welcome and feedback
The only way to get maximum moveability of the battery is to mount it high so it can be slid back & forth over the top of the motor/jet.
At various times on the thread, people have talked about the relative benefits of ride plates (central tab) and separate trimtabs. Chi goes fast on lakes, I go more slowly in rocky streams. Trim tabs work best for him, whereas I favour a rideplate (which also gives some protection to the nozzle, servo etc.) in my situation. I think its a case of 'Horses for courses'.

Either way, you need to keep the weight as low in the hull as poss. Therefore mounting the batteries high is to be discouraged. Hence my saying you'll only shift the CG 10 or 15mm either way by moving the lipos. And I know the stock battery is up high, but a modded NQD is a whole different ballgame

Besides, if you are the kind of modeller who wants to add some scale detail (or a camera) on deck, anything you can do to get the other stuff as low as poss is worth doing
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 02:52 AM
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So we finally had some decent weather on the weekend, figured I should take the NQD out!

From Saturday:
NQD Jet Boating Brothers Creek Feb 16th (0 min 0 sec)
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by chidago View Post
Take em to your local sign shop, they can scan em and make em outta vinyl..

Or, print em on a thin plastic, glue em, clearcoat the boat.
Thanks Chi
That was all it took to get me stirred up and thinking! I think I could use the paper ones because the 2 piece design I have created puts one piece above the seam and one piece below, so no compound bends. But it also sent me on a search for transparent laser printer sheets. I found a clear plastic label paper that comes in matte or gloss, is laser compatible, and has a self adhesive and peel off paper backing to help get it through the printer. I ordered some of that,from here; http://www.onlinelabels.com/ but I'm real tempted to just use my paper versions. (Hmmmmmmm...........antsy or patient............antsy or patient?)


Quote:
Originally Posted by Firehawk989 View Post
So we finally had some decent weather on the weekend, figured I should take the NQD out!

From Saturday:
http://youtu.be/TArlgyIBkXY
Fabulous video!!!!! I do have a couple of questions though.

1.) Your boat tipped over a couple of times. Do you think that is pretty much normal and acceptable, considering the current, or are there things you might try to get it to stay upright a bit more?

2.) You seemed to be toying with a certain area of rapids that was near a rock on your right. Were you having trouble getting up and beyond that rapids, or were you at some kind of limit in thrust, or more likely, just playing? Your boat certainly didn't show any kind of speed deficit during the calmer water runs.

I am certainly not questioning your boat, just trying to get some idea of any limitations that I should be aware of. Most of my runs will be from my dock an a relatively slow and wide river, or perhaps along side my pontoon boat on the same river.

John in Merrill
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 08:39 AM
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LOLOLOLOL..

Fire, I smiled the whole 9 min..that broke winter for me..

Its amazing what cheap plastic can give ya..you had it good by that big rock..

Wish Brothers Creek was by me, got all you need right there..

Thanks Bud.

John, he's just holding in in the current, he would have gassed it, it would have shot out of there, thats the point..surf with it.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 09:52 AM
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Fire. As ever you have the rest of us envying you. Terrific video. Banished my winter blues for a while . So you're still having to go to the creek. Haven't they finished your lunch time racetrack yet.

John, as Chi said, that's what it's all about in streams like that. Surfing. And why would you want to stop it going over occasionally even if you could. You won't ever be able to guarantee staying sunny-side-up, if you persist in boating in those conditions. And of course, if you found a way to make it more stable you'd just take on even bigger challenges to try and upset it. Human nature. Amongst crawlers, anyway Extreme sports without the risks!
That said (and for good or ill depending on your point of view), you won't have that problem if you're planning on operating on a lake or in smooth river water. As you will have noticed from when Fire was hooning about in a smooth water section of the creek
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 09:57 AM
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No Problem Guys

Just curious about almost everything.

John
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