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Old Apr 24, 2011, 06:53 PM
"day ain't over yet-"
der kapitan's Avatar
Western N.Y. winemaking country
Joined Jun 2005
9,632 Posts
Lepinske, very nice drawings on the PDF, thanks---.
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Old Apr 24, 2011, 07:27 PM
Tygum Lagoon Terror
nick_75au's Avatar
Australia, QLD, Regents Park
Joined Mar 2007
3,458 Posts
Most boaters would say stick with the SLA's, they don't want to be bothered with balancing or any other new fangled ideas

Batteries and chargers forum would be the place to ask about balancing and charging of the Li-Ph-o4 batteries, some very knowledgeable people post there.

Cheers

Nick
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Old Apr 25, 2011, 03:04 AM
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Greg Knipp's Avatar
Manitowoc, Wisconsin
Joined Dec 2003
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Hey Gill that is a sweet looking tug there!!!
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Old Apr 25, 2011, 04:44 AM
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JayJay76's Avatar
Stuttgart, Germany
Joined Oct 2004
921 Posts
Here are some photos of the build so far. Today I'm planning to sheet the sides and finish off the bottom, and then seal it all with 2 component clear lacquer tomorrow at work before masking off and painting the hull sides black. No fiberglassing on this one.
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Old Apr 25, 2011, 08:09 AM
GILL
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United States, NJ, Hopatcong
Joined Aug 2005
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jlepinske, nice drawing, and the build looks great. Very nice work. On the 9in I would go with a 280 - 400 (370-375) motor. On your 30 inch the 2 gels (6v in parallel 9ah) will give you the weight you need and a good run time, but the Lipos at 19.5 ah should give well over a 4 hour run time.
Since they are lithium ion and NOT lithium polymer they can take a bit more abuse and it is not a critical to balance them. This is why they are used in portable drills.
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Old Apr 25, 2011, 08:36 AM
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JayJay76's Avatar
Stuttgart, Germany
Joined Oct 2004
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Thanks Gill! Your feedback on the runtime and balancing is just the sort of encouragement I was hoping for.

I've started putting together the big lithium pack just to test it out, I would like to keep this boat kinda light anyway cos I will be adding my FPV camera and associated gear later. 4 hours run time sounds about right for me, the 2 gel cells in my springer only give about 2.5 hours before the boat starts to really slow down, and thats just not enough time for me on a sunday afternoon. Heck thats only 5 beers' worth!

I'm thinking that if I keep the weight kinda low, the box keel will provide 3/4 the buoyancy and thus the rest of the hull will sit higher in the water. Wouldn't that mean less drag/more speed? This is a cruiser but it would be fun to flip the throttle to high rate and zoom about when an audience turns up. I keep the throttle rate on a 3-position switch with 30/75/100 settings so I won't hesitate to hand the transmitter to a dad who happens along with his kids. My springer (ugly it may be..) never disappoints the little ones. This cheerful toy tug should make an even more lasting impression. Thats my ultimate goal, to attract more people to the hobby.
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Old Apr 25, 2011, 08:53 AM
GILL
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United States, NJ, Hopatcong
Joined Aug 2005
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I knew that you were my kind of guy. I love functions. A cammera would be great, how about lights, horn, and engine sound.
The keel will give extra buoyancy, but with it so low in the water it will take away more speed then the extra would give you.
I would add a Lipo cut off if the speed control dose not have one.

I agree with letting the kids run, I have 2 Robbe Antji's and 4 fast boats I let the kids run. The fast boats are ones we sold a few years ago I purchased the last 4 then added a foam bumper to them, pipe insulating foam.
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Old Apr 25, 2011, 10:24 AM
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Stuttgart, Germany
Joined Oct 2004
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lights, horn, and engine sound! I dont know how to do that stuff. I have a futaba T7 and an 8 channel rx but I dont know how to do that sort of thing. I would like to hook up a horn to the trainer switch since its momentary but I would have to study before attempting something like that.
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Old Apr 25, 2011, 12:33 PM
GILL
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United States, NJ, Hopatcong
Joined Aug 2005
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A quick and easy way would be a RAM 38 sound unit, engine sound/horn. The horn is activated with a micro switch and the engine sound follows the motor speed.
www.ramrcandramtrack.com/rcsound.html
He has a whole assortment of sounds and lights. I have a number of his sounds in my models.
On the 38 you have 4 wires +/- 6-14 volt and 2 wire to the motor terminals. The power switch and the micro switch for the horn are already wired. Just glue the micro switch to the side of a servo and you are ready to go.
Lights (LED) I do the same as the horn. Micro switches glued to micro servo, both sides. This way I turn on spot lights, running lights, and so on.
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Old Apr 25, 2011, 03:48 PM
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Stuttgart, Germany
Joined Oct 2004
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well i have a 24V ultrasonic fog unit I plan to build into the stack, with a small fan to force draft, and I was dreaming up a rotating butterfly valve with speed proportional to throttle position, operated by a servo modified for continuous rotation. This intermittent restriction would create puffs of fog to simulate the chugging of an engine. As for sound I would like to figure out a mechanical sound chamber with a rubber diaphragm of sorts, operated from the drive shaft. does this make any sense at all? Seems to me the perfect proportional sound could be generated by the actual motor itself. Sort of a baseball card in the spokes so to speak.
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Old Apr 26, 2011, 08:51 AM
GILL
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United States, NJ, Hopatcong
Joined Aug 2005
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Great idea on the fog unit, I have done that on several boats, My Calypso just uses a flapper valve to restrict the air flow. The boat would be diesel, I use a train smoke unit that has a built in fan. Just added a small servo and made the flap from styrene. the servo is "Y"d into the throttle channel.
For the sound many years ago people would use a "card in the spokes" unit, but the volume was very , very low. That is why most of us have gone electronic. You can get a much better, cleaner sound and it's easier to connect.
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Old Apr 27, 2011, 10:23 AM
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Stuttgart, Germany
Joined Oct 2004
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I put together 20 cells last night into a 2S10P pack, I'll test it like that and if it needs more ballast or runtime I can add 10 more cells. 13Ah should be enough runtime, and leaves me some cells for the smaller 45cm flat bottom version of the Salty, I'm calling it the 'Saltine' cos its smaller, and it has a flat bottom kinda like a cracker.
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Old Apr 27, 2011, 12:03 PM
1/2 a bubble off
Apismelifera's Avatar
United States, NY, Schenectady
Joined Mar 2011
843 Posts
The "Saltine" LOL. Thank you.

Does it come in an unsalted version too?
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Old Apr 27, 2011, 02:08 PM
GILL
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United States, NJ, Hopatcong
Joined Aug 2005
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I like the names, I went with "LIL PROCAX" latin for push.
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Old Apr 27, 2011, 04:28 PM
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North Central TN USA
Joined May 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GILL RC View Post
A quick and easy way would be a RAM 38 sound unit, engine sound/horn. The horn is activated with a micro switch and the engine sound follows the motor speed.
www.ramrcandramtrack.com/rcsound.html
He has a whole assortment of sounds and lights. I have a number of his sounds in my models.
On the 38 you have 4 wires +/- 6-14 volt and 2 wire to the motor terminals. The power switch and the micro switch for the horn are already wired. Just glue the micro switch to the side of a servo and you are ready to go.
Lights (LED) I do the same as the horn. Micro switches glued to micro servo, both sides. This way I turn on spot lights, running lights, and so on.
I can never get those sound demos to work. It says wait for download then nothing happens. Not just from this link either.
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