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Old Apr 05, 2011, 11:10 PM
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Now put the fuse bottom flat on your work surface. Place the side marked "IN" facing up. This ensures the plane will have right thrust. Add the rear former to the fuse bottom, true it up and glue in place.
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Old Apr 05, 2011, 11:16 PM
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Now take the front floor former and dowel pin it in place. Only apply glue to the rear 20%, this is important! The rest will be glued later.
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Old Apr 05, 2011, 11:25 PM
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Now find the ply front former and rear eyelet plate. Insert these into the fuse side but dont glue them yet. Now slide this whole thing into the fuse bottom from the "IN" side.
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Old Apr 05, 2011, 11:30 PM
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Install the ply landing gear plate and remaining fuse side. Be careful to align everything nice tight and snug. I find wood glue works a little better for this step. I suppose it would be ok for CA but with wood glue you can ensure the adhesive is spread completely over the surface instead of hoping CA wicks in.
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Old Apr 05, 2011, 11:53 PM
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Install and glue the servo rail supports and servo rails at the correct spacing for your servos. Also install eyelet plate supports. The servo rail supports have the dowel pin "keys" that make it very easy to find the correct elevation to mount the servo rail supports on the fuselage sides. Ive always hated trying to find a correct solution for this step on other models but the dowel keys really make it very easy.
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Old Apr 06, 2011, 12:02 AM
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Now you have the all important decision on how to hinge the rudder. If you are using CA hinges, you will want to hinge the center. If you are using tape or covering for a hinge, you will want the rudder to hinge offset.

Im using CA hinges so center hinge it is. The tail wheel thrust yoke is installed in the rear of the fuse just under where the rear top sheeting will be installed.

For the tail wheel to work correctly and pivot smoothly, it must be installed perfectly under the center of the rudder hinge line. Line it up correctly. With the given parts, you can have offset left or right and center mounting.

Also, the top sheeting in the next step will sit directly on top of this plate.
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Old Apr 06, 2011, 12:10 AM
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Now install the top rear sheeting. All the tabs should align nicely and fit snugly. You gain a lot of strength from these connections so make sure they fit well. Use masking tape or rubber bands to hold the connection tight. Once you are ok with the fit, wick CA into the joints. Its easy to use too much, Go slow, take your time and you will be fine.

Also be careful to not let any CA creep forward of the rear former yet. Start at the wing area and work towards the back.
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Old Apr 06, 2011, 12:33 PM
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Sweet looking. I'm not sure if this is a thread or an instruction set? ;-) Very Nice.

Dave
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Old Apr 10, 2011, 11:24 PM
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Next, lets install the firewall. Included with the kit is a predrilled firewall that we will use. Also included is a blank firewall if you are using glow or an oddball motor. Nothing too complicated about this step except make sure you get it right. This is one connection you do NOT want failing on you in flight. It is recommended that you dampen the outside of the fuse side and bottom sheeting to help bend the balsa a little. Now is also the time to glue the fuse side/bottom intersection between the front former and the firewall that weve been holding off on. Glue the firewall all around but do not glue the fure top plate in place yet.
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Old Apr 10, 2011, 11:38 PM
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Now take the provided 1/2" triangle stock and cut into 4 sections, around 2" each. These will go in the fuselage up against the firewall. You have to notch these to fit first. Its pretty easy and helpful to fit it against the front of the firewall before you just guess how much to trim. After you have them notched, glue the bottom 2 in place.
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Old Apr 10, 2011, 11:47 PM
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Now we add the top plate to the nose of the fuse and glue. This part has a hatch. They do have a top and bottom and must be oriented properly to preserve the right thrust angle. Assemble these using the old dowel method. Install the top plate on the fuse and glue. Add the two remaining triangle supports from the previous step.
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Old Apr 10, 2011, 11:52 PM
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Now get the top hatch and end grain stiffeners. Glue it up.
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Old Apr 11, 2011, 12:09 AM
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The hatch is held in place by 2 magnets. Find the hatch tongue and install this on the bottom of the hatch using dowel pegs. The magnets need to be installed in both the hatch and the magnet holder in the sillplate. Orient them so they attract each other and they are flush to the surface. Rough them up a little and epoxy them in place. Then add the magnet eyelet doubler under the sill plate after the magnet epoxy has set up.
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Old Apr 11, 2011, 12:28 AM
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Now we add the front former stop blocks (3/16" thick balsa triangles). Glue these up against the front former and sill plate. Also add the cross grain stiffeners to the end of the fuse (tail).

Once this is accomplished, make sure everything is true and glued up solid. Then sand it up. Sand the firewall flush and sand the corners lightly to give a nice little radius to it.
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Old Apr 11, 2011, 09:10 AM
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At this point we are pretty much finished up with the wing and the fuse. When you sanding, feel free to shape the fuse nose a little, the triangle stock behind it helps secure it.

Also, trial fit the wing to the fuse. Also lightly sand the pin on the front of the wing. Just knock down the edges a little. Also sand the pins that hold the back end of the wing to the fuse.

Again, go easy and only sand a little at a time. You want it to the point where it slides in and out relatively easy but not to the point where there is any slop.
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Last edited by Carnifax; Apr 24, 2011 at 11:05 PM.
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