i almost pulled the trigger on this model when i saw it at the Toledo Expo.

Slide the wing tip formers in place at the ends of the wings. Slide the centers in first. You will have to pivot the ends up to mate with the tabs of the LE and TE.

Now find the bass spar doublers. There will be a front and back and top and bottom. You will have to more or less ease these into place.

At this point you have to choose an aileron setup. You can run a single servo, 2 servos or even 4 for crazy acrobatics. Im not the biggest 3D guy so were going to go with 2 servos in the wing.

There are enough pieces to build a box on to the mid wing rib. The pieces of the box are illustrated in the plans.

Now we find the ailerons. They will have little end plates that are placed 90 degrees to the grain. Find these and glue them in place. Then sand a bevel in the aileron in anticipation of the hinging.

Now the wing should be true and strong. This wing is seriously robust for this weight class. Review your work and see if everything is true and straight. If not, correct it now.

Once you are satisfied with the fit, glue it up. CA works well here but dont use an excessive amount.

If you are satisfied with the progress, go ahead and glue it up. Once you are finished with that, sand the surface. I used a sanding block with 220 grit paper.

Once you are finished sanding, the wing is done.

Lets move onto the horizontal stab and vertical stab and corresponding control surfaces. The horizontal stab is a single piece. There are end cross grain stiffeners that get pressed in to fit. Lay it flat, hit it with a little CA and sand it flush. There is a ply hard point that is inserted into the middle of the stab DO NOT glue it in yet.

Sand a little radius on the leading edge of the horizontal stab. Dont sand the trailing edge.

The vertical stab is approached much the same way. You do have a choice between 2 different styles, eindecker and sport. Im going sport here. The Eindecker has a nice Maltese cross should you choose to opt for that style.

A quick note about the elevator and rudder. The control rod for the elevator exits out the open end of the fuselage. The wire for the tail wheel drops directly down from the rudder (tiller arm). If you build them both centered, they will hit each other. If you do center them, you will have to make sure the control rod is off to the side. Thats how I did it and its fine.

For a tape hinge on the elevator, sand a bevel on the hinge point.

Do the same for the rudder. You can use a tape hinge or center hinge. If you opt for a tape hinge it will be off to one side so the tail wheel wire is much less a concern. We will observe this in future posts.

Gather all your fuselage parts. All the surfaces with text go to the inside. The model will have built in down and right thrust. Its fairly easy to achieve this, just pay attention and make sure right is right, left is left. Youll be fine and up and flying in no time at all.

The fuse sides require 2 pieces for the full length. Refer to the plan and you will see how easy it is. Mate the 2 parts and glue it up.

The fuse sides, bottom and rear sheeting have lightening holes in them as well as cross grain stiffeners. These are little cut outs that require pieces be inserted and glued in. Do your best to match the holes up with the correct sized pieces. There are a few different sizes so make sure you have the right one. It might seem confusing at first but once you get rolling its no big deal.

The rear former is made of 4 parts. Press in place, glue and sand. Set it aside.

Now find all the space frame former parts. Assemble these along with the wing saddle without glue.

Now place the space frame formers from the previous step on the fuse sides. You will then find small holes that line up with the corresponding holes in the fuse. So the right frame former side goes with the right fuse side. It will only fit one way. There is a 1/32" x 1/16" dowel strip that fits (or keys) into those holes for alignment purposes. Without glueing, line them up and insert the balsa pins. You will have to break off the dowel as you go. These will line them up and hold them in place.

Dont forget the formers go on the inside of the fuse.

Important Step:Using thin CA, glue these formers to the fuse sides but be careful, DONT APPLY ANY GLUE in front of the front former. Anything behind it is fair game once you have it lined up.

Once you have it glued and set, trim the excess dowels and sand flush.

Now the Eyelet plate doubler needs to be tacked into place. You can use the eyelet plate and rear former for alignment. Temporarily place the eyelet plate and rear former into place (but dont glue them) and tack glue the eyelet plate doubler only.

Repeat process for other side of the fuse.

Jack,

I am currently a little ahead of this thread. The plane is finished and it flies very, very nice. Great inverted and extremely 3D capable. As quick as you build you could have had this build complete on the drive back from Toledo. Now if only I had someone to videotape for me...

Dan