Originally Posted by georgeintexas

I'm really confused by my mcpx/dx4

Update: Just tried the heli again and the swash problem is already back.

Did you're mcpx come as a rtf with the DX 4?

Originally Posted by Birds of Prey

Did you're mcpx come as a rtf with the DX 4?

Yes it did. It's a pretty old heli, purchased in the fall of 2011. The original owner brought it to work to fly with me around Christmas time when I started flying the v911 in the atrium at work. He had this swash problem right away, got frustrated, and decided to get out of helicopters and concentrate on R/C cars with his daughters who were really interested in that. I've only had it a little over a month, but in that time I'm really loving the challenge of the mcpx. Consequently, flying the FP heli has already lost alot of its appeal.

Thanks,
George

Originally Posted by georgeintexas

I've only had it a little over a month, but in that time I'm really loving the challenge of the mcpx. Consequently, flying the FP heli has already lost alot of its appeal.

Thanks,
George

You've already passed the point of no return, George. Buy a good radio.

Resistance is futile.

Dave

Originally Posted by hancockdw

You've already passed the point of no return, George. Buy a good radio.

Resistance is futile.

Dave

LOL Dave, you're probably right. My wife isn't very happy about it though.

George

This morning I had a thought on how I could prove it was the transmitter. I went back to the hobby store, made sure my mcpx was still acting up, and bound my dx4e to their demo ncpx. Sure enough, it did the same thing as mine. So, for sure it is the transmitter. While I was there I got some more links and replaced the feathering shaft.

When we got home I took the transmitter apart and reseated the 3 connectors on the main board. Put it back together and man did things get weird. When it bound with the mcpx the swash went clear to the top of it's range. Intermittently the main rotor would turn a couple revolutions, smacking my hand good one time. After several binding attempts the swash suddenly jerked back to the correct position and it began working. I went outside in the wind and cold and flew a little...very bumpy out there. On the second battery the throttle/pitch got squirrely and suddenly it shot up like a rocket and began spinning like a top. Thankfully throttle hold worked and I'm fortunate the wind was behind me or it would have come down on the roof. When I picked it up the swash had gone all the way to the top again.

So, I'm saving for a dx6i and the mcpx is temporarily grounded.

George

hey guys, I put in a astroid designs plug and play brushless conversion kit, it has nice power, a little touchy then what i am used to, can someone post their brushless pitch/throttle curve settings for a brushless set-up, I'm not looking for crazy power, I use a Spektrum Dx8 transmitter, thanks!

Just got me an MCP X from a friend a few days. Bound it up to my DX7 and have been enjoying it since. Haven't tried any aerobatics with it as I'm still learning to fly helicopters. I do love the fact that every time i've gotten in trouble even from about 8-10 feet up I can hit the throttle hold and not worry about replacing any parts. Blade gets a major thumbs up for this heli from a new guy's perspective. When I do start to attempt aerobatics, I've heard it is best to stay as close to 0 pitch as possible, just want to verify this statement.

it will bog the motor and cause tail blowout if you use extreme pitch changes. The solid tail boom helps but it will still happen if you don't manage your collective in flips ect. You will quickly learn how much it takes to cause the blowout and adjust once you know whats causing it. In my case the battery determines how bad the blowout is. I only have 2 stock batteries and one is terrible and the other almost never blows out. Get good batts and a solid tail and it isn't a big issue.

Originally Posted by Greg Head

it will bog the motor and cause tail blowout if you use extreme pitch changes. The solid tail boom helps but it will still happen if you don't manage your collective in flips ect. You will quickly learn how much it takes to cause the blowout and adjust once you know whats causing it. In my case the battery determines how bad the blowout is. I only have 2 stock batteries and one is terrible and the other almost never blows out. Get good batts and a solid tail and it isn't a big issue.

Thanks for the advice. I'm getting a few Venom 250MAH 25C batts. If my thought line is correct, amp draw goes to the main motor kinda leaving the tail motor SOL?

I haven't seen much comment in any of the mCPX threads about the Microheli plastic main blades. I tried a set yesterday. They look nice, and seem well made out of a good material, but I found them to be significantly less efficient than the stock "bullet" blades. It takes quite a bit more pitch to lift off and hover, they're noisier, and battery run-time is noticeably lower.

Anyone find them better performing in some way? Maybe more responsive in 3D? I'm not there yet.

Originally Posted by BrundleFlyBy

I haven't seen much comment in any of the mCPX threads about the Microheli plastic main blades. I tried a set yesterday. They look nice, and seem well made out of a good material, but I found them to be significantly less efficient than the stock "bullet" blades. It takes quite a bit more pitch to lift off and hover, they're noisier, and battery run-time is noticeably lower.

Anyone find them better performing in some way? Maybe more responsive in 3D? I'm not there yet.

Interesting information, can you weigh them and compare to the OEM's? I wonder if they are significantly heavier?

My scale only read to tenths of a gram. The pair of Microhelis comes in at 4.2g, and the pair of weighted bullet blades comes in at 5.0g. For reference, the stock hi-perf blades came in at 4.7g for the pair.

Microheli blades are about .100" shorter, and they taper from .060 to .040 thickness with a shorter chord that also tapers slightly, whereas both of the stock blade types run a constant thickness of about .058 with no chord taper. Material density notwithstanding, this explains the weight difference, and probably also the reduced lift.

But I can see where the lower inertia might make them more responsive in 3D.

EDIT: One might also expect the thinner blade to have less drag. They seem draggier to me, but that's probably mostly due to the higher pitch needed to get equivalent lift. They have kind of a grooved surface from front to back. I'm not sure whether this is deliberate, or a side-effect of CNC-machined molds. And it's hard to say what effect this might have on surface drag at this scale, but it could be part of the difference.

Originally Posted by BrundleFlyBy

My scale only read to tenths of a gram. The pair of Microhelis comes in at 4.2g, and the pair of weighted bullet blades comes in at 5.0g. For reference, the stock hi-perf blades came in at 4.7g for the pair.

Microheli blades are about .100" shorter, and they taper from .060 to .040 thickness with a shorter chord that also tapers slightly, whereas both of the stock blade types run a constant thickness of about .058 with no chord taper. Material density notwithstanding, this explains the weight difference, and probably also the reduced lift.

But I can see where the lower inertia might make them more responsive in 3D.

EDIT: One might also expect the thinner blade to have less drag. They seem draggier to me, but that's probably mostly due to the higher pitch needed to get equivalent lift. They have kind of a grooved surface from front to back. I'm not sure whether this is deliberate, or a side-effect of CNC-machined molds. And it's hard to say what effect this might have on surface drag at this scale, but it could be part of the difference.

Thanks for the info!

A little shopping around and I came across a dub BL kit for $110.00 less then the dub BL 2s mcpx, http://m.overskyrc.com/index.php?pag...uble+ESC%2Betc.

If you have a spare $3.99, this video here is welllll worth the money. All of the info in the video is in this thread but it will help you quite a bit. It covers every aspect of the mcpx and has been a very valuable tool even in my larger helis.