Originally Posted by St.Eve

What is the length of time I should fly a fully charged flight battery to get the optimal use out of it? I'm using the E-Flight brand on my MCPX.

Just hovering? Most likely around 4 minutes. When done with 4 minutes measure the voltage. Plan to stop flying around 3.3-3.4 volt range. I stop around 3.6-3.7 myself and live with a bit shorter flights but longer battery life (theoretically). Your battery is full at 4.2v.

Hey guys, I just joined the mcpx club. Got two heli's and a bunch of spares, an extra board with three servos for a brushless version, and an aoe converter with a co5m motor. I also have a hpo5 from my 4g3 I may try as well.

Anywho, I have a dx7 and want to know the best setup for this bird, and if its any different, a setup for the brushless version.

I know the info is in here, but at 750 pages, that's a long read.
Thanks guys

Garrett

My advice?
Stick with the settings in the manual to start, fly it and make small adjustments in either direction to rates and/or expo to see what suits you. The only "gotcha" I can think of is to make sure the total pitch travel is around 70% +/- as it will help reduce bogging down the head speed (don't recall what value the manual gives offhand). You will learn smooth collective management with the mCPx.

Is their a sim for the McpX for realflight (5.5) that works. I found one last year but it was totally dysfunctional. Now i don't see any. Maybe under a new name?

Originally Posted by JJ460

Is their a sim for the McpX for realflight (5.5) that works. I found one last year but it was totally dysfunctional. Now i don't see any. Maybe under a new name?

Just go to the drop down menu and select knife edge. Find an mCPX with a high rating and download it. I have Realflight 6 and found a fairly good one. It is less stable than the real thing. If you can fly it, you can easily fly you mCPX.

Just installed Boca bearings on my main shaft... VERY smooth compared to stock bearings. Stock bearings always seemed to vary the motor rpm just slightly, making perfect altitude hold an exercise in constant pitch adjustment. Bocas keep the rpms more consistent yielding a much more fun heli to fly... especially indoors

I looked at the Boca site, and I see several Blade/E-Flite models listed but not the MCPX, which bearings did you use?

Originally Posted by stuball56

I looked at the Boca site, and I see several Blade/E-Flite models listed but not the MCPX, which bearings did you use?

MR63-ZZ/W2 are the MCPX shielded main shaft bearings I purchased. You need 2...

MR52-ZZ/W2 are for the NANO if you have one of those too... like me

I ordered them without grease and soaked them in Tri-Lube (as per Joel's recommendation). Not sure if they sent them without grease because they sure smelled like grease, but I blew compressed air through them and no grease came out

For future reference, Blade publishes the bearing sizes in the schematic in the manual for all their helis. So you can search Boca with the bearing sizes listed for any of the stock bearings.

Ooops, my bad, although I went from stock to Boca in my Nano... I have the Microheli carbon frame in my MCPX, so the improvement was from the Microheli bearings that came in the frame to the Boca bearings..

Originally Posted by jrjr

Just hovering? Most likely around 4 minutes. When done with 4 minutes measure the voltage. Plan to stop flying around 3.3-3.4 volt range. I stop around 3.6-3.7 myself and live with a bit shorter flights but longer battery life (theoretically). Your battery is full at 4.2v.

Checking voltage is not really the best way to check your batteries because when you check them on the ground there is no load on them. When you are flying there is a load and the voltage will be lower. So if you have 3.4V on the ground, depending on your flying style, age and quality of the batteries you could drop down below 3.0 V in the air.

The best way is to get yourself a good programmable charger that will tell you how many mAh you are putting back in to the batteries. You don't want to put back more than 80% of the capacity of the battery. So if you have a 300 mAh battery you never want to put back more than 240 mAh.

Originally Posted by Zeta30

Checking voltage is not really the best way to check your batteries because when you check them on the ground there is no load on them. When you are flying there is a load and the voltage will be lower. So if you have 3.4V on the ground, depending on your flying style, age and quality of the batteries you could drop down below 3.0 V in the air.

The best way is to get yourself a good programmable charger that will tell you how many mAh you are putting back in to the batteries. You don't want to put back more than 80% of the capacity of the battery. So if you have a 300 mAh battery you never want to put back more than 240 mAh.

I agree and stopping where I stop allows maybe a tad over 70% put back in the battery. I said this since I figured he is newer and most likely only has the stock charger. Most people have a multimeter though.

I have a mcpx v2 and am looking for a reasonable priced simulator for
less than $50 does on exits. I am not ready to spend $130 on the
phonix simulator. Thanks

Originally Posted by scharlach

I have a mcpx v2 and am looking for a reasonable priced simulator for
less than $50 does on exits. I am not ready to spend $130 on the
phonix simulator. Thanks

I have both Phoenix and Clearview. Phoenix is way better but Clearview is ok for what it costs.... you will need to buy a cable for your transmitter though. Phoenix includes one.

http://rcflightsim.com/

I also have this controller and used it with Clearview. It lasted a couple years with lots of use but has started acting funky. I think the pots need cleaning but it worked good for a long time....
http://www.hobbypartz.com/60p-dyu-1002.html

Originally Posted by scharlach

I have a mcpx v2 and am looking for a reasonable priced simulator for
less than $50 does on exits. I am not ready to spend $130 on the
phonix simulator. Thanks

Sent you a PM

This is what I found for simulator cable, looks like it should work with
my computer Windows 7, DX7 Transmitter, & most Simulation
software. What do you think?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-in1-Fligh...item27c8f9e794