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Old Aug 09, 2012, 11:32 AM
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USA, CA, Monrovia
Joined Jan 2008
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I was thinking of soldering the wires at an angle where I could lay them flat on the board then somehow glue them to the board. Every time I plug/remove the lipos it tugs on the solder joint.
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Old Aug 09, 2012, 12:19 PM
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Joined Jun 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyastro View Post
Thanks Graham, Buzz. What about you? What do you guys do to prevent the battery wires from coming off?
Tin your pins with a little solder. It does two things:
It makes a better connection & It won;t fall out.
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Old Aug 09, 2012, 04:06 PM
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United States, CA, San Mateo
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Originally Posted by tonyastro View Post
Is it ok to hot glue the 3in1 board? My battery wires keep coming off no matter how good my solder is. I'm thinking of hot gluing the wires to the bottom of the board so the solder can't come loose.
your battery wires should not come off the board at the solder joint.. you must of over heated the pad..

the wires break behind the solder joint after a while from bending back and forth.. I would send it to someone who can fix the pad or get longer wire and solder to the back of the board, can you provide a upclose picture??
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 12:06 PM
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I took again my McpX V1 (stock except for the 1cm longer solid CF tail boom) + the trusted JR9303 with me on vacation (to Italy) and I did some good practice to extend the duration of my flips from a fraction of a second to a few seconds long now. I am also practicing (safe) altitude control. I am very happy with this little heli. I need more sim time to improve the control of the asset and of direction, and I feel the McpX is still going to be a good choice to improve further. Yes maybe 1/2 of the crashes are due to the tail blowing out (I still have the V1 tail prop), but this happens typically when I am trying to recover from a mistake, it's not entirely the heli's fault..... so from the training point of view to have little margin for error is not actually bad.

Anyway after 160+ cumulative flights I finally busted the original landing gear (the battery holder gave up) and broke both front canopy pins of the frame. The main motor is original (and so is the head except for some links) and the tail motor must have about 60 flights. Time to do some reconstructive surgery I guess....

If I decide to replace the frame (as opposite to connecting a carbon rod section to the frame to replace the broken front pins), what is the best sequence to reinstall the servos and the main motor? Motor first, then servos, then board I guess? Suggestions are welcome.
Even if still usable, I am going to replace the original motor (it seems to still have enough power to handle inverted hovering and altitude adjustment) since I doubt it will last much longer anyway. I also got the V2 tail props now and I will install one on the last v1 spare tail motor I have left.

Is the current boom longer than the original V1? Even if it is, I am thinking that I better keep using the solid carbon fiber boom I currently have, since an hollow boom would not last long with the type of crashes I am having now.
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 01:31 PM
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http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1709160 Selling stuff here!
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Old Aug 11, 2012, 06:43 AM
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United States, AL, Morris
Joined Mar 2012
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Is the Xtreme Carbon Chassis any good?

http://www.wowhobbies.com/xtm-mcpx01...hassisset.aspx

I'm not doing anthng extreme, I'm just tired of breaking canopy mounts. Anyone using this?
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Last edited by steveap1; Aug 11, 2012 at 06:58 AM.
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Old Aug 11, 2012, 08:03 PM
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New Jersey
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Originally Posted by steveap1 View Post
http://www.wowhobbies.com/xtm-mcpx01...hassisset.aspx

I'm not doing anthng extreme, I'm just tired of breaking canopy mounts. Anyone using this?
I have no information on this frame but from the look I would guess that it is a bit heavy, especially for the brushed motor.

I have been having a similar problem with broken canopy posts and here is how I am handling it:

- it seems to me that the canopy posts break because when the nose of the canopy hits the ground, force is transferred onto the posts. I do not know if it is an original idea, but I have cut away the nose of the canopy and superglued a strip of foam that has been working quite well as shock absorber, not only for the posts but also for the board. Added bonus is that the McpX is now very quiet, with a pleasant buzzzing sound. Note that the inside of the foam strip needs to be notched for the battery.

- just this morning I tied with sewing thread a carbon rod to the frame, which is nearly in the same position as the original canopy posts. Run the thread between the frame and the motor then towards the front, down around the post and back again a few times. I was about to CA it but for now I am going to see if leaving a bit of free play actually helps to absorb shocks. The canopy lost the grommets long ago and to replace them I positioned on the inside a square of electrician's tape, and I punctured with an awl. The tape "grips" the post quite well. I have not yet crashed so only time will tell how good it holds.

In terms of maintenance this morning I decided to just replace the tail motor/tail prop, file down the dents on the leading edge of the main blades, and re-balance them. The main motor is still good and I decided to do as little work and as much flying as possible ....

I made several flips and the heli is running nicely again, not bad for such a veteran.
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Old Aug 11, 2012, 10:53 PM
Stress Be Gone
GBR2's Avatar
Snohomish, WA
Joined May 2000
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Try these skids from Airtime RC products. You can also search YouTube for some videos of them being assembled and trying to be smashed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blade-MCPX-L...item2c65df52e8
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Old Aug 11, 2012, 11:40 PM
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Loops and Rolls

Stock Mcpx v2 good enough to perform basic Loops and Rolls? I'm not advance 3D, but like to add looping and rolls skills. I flied V120d02s and has started doing loops but rolls are difficult for me and getting expensive o replacing servos, rather has linear servos.
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Old Aug 12, 2012, 12:37 AM
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United States, CA, San Mateo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steveap1 View Post
http://www.wowhobbies.com/xtm-mcpx01...hassisset.aspx

I'm not doing anthng extreme, I'm just tired of breaking canopy mounts. Anyone using this?
If you are still crashing enough to break stock canopy mounts, you will
destroy this frame within a few crashes.. first thing to go will be the tail boom mount lol

This Heli Is Going Up For Sale.. Figured I'd post it here first..

Mcpx V2 Testing Black Dragon BL Motor With BLHeli (2 min 18 sec)


$200.00 obo
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Old Aug 12, 2012, 07:22 PM
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United States, AL, Morris
Joined Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMala View Post
- it seems to me that the canopy posts break because when the nose of the canopy hits the ground, force is transferred onto the posts. I do not know if it is an original idea, but I have cut away the nose of the canopy and superglued a strip of foam that has been working quite well as shock absorber, not only for the posts but also for the board. Added bonus is that the McpX is now very quiet, with a pleasant buzzzing sound. Note that the inside of the foam strip needs to be notched for the battery.
That's an interesting mod. I've seen a couple others using wire wrapped aroung the frame and protruding in such a way the canopy can mount to it. Someone else said building up the area where the mounts attach to the frame with JB Weld. I just thought for $30 bucks the wow CF frame might solve the problem quickly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR2 View Post
Try these skids from Airtime RC products. You can also search YouTube for some videos of them being assembled and trying to be smashed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blade-MCPX-L...item2c65df52e8
Funny, I've had very little problem with the skids.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Torch8 View Post
Stock Mcpx v2 good enough to perform basic Loops and Rolls? I'm not advance 3D, but like to add looping and rolls skills. I flied V120d02s and has started doing loops but rolls are difficult for me and getting expensive o replacing servos, rather has linear servos.
I've seen it done, but I'm not quite ready for it..

Quote:
Originally Posted by f.a.r.m.e.r View Post
If you are still crashing enough to break stock canopy mounts, you will
destroy this frame within a few crashes.. first thing to go will be the tail boom mount lol

This Heli Is Going Up For Sale.. Figured I'd post it here first..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RvWwH...e_gdata_player

$200.00 obo
I'm not crashing all that much now, but when I do, it seems the mounts are always the first to go. Nice looking heli.If I didn't have my eye on the 130x, I'd seriously consider it.
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Old Aug 12, 2012, 07:41 PM
Farmer
United States, CA, San Mateo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torch8 View Post
Stock Mcpx v2 good enough to perform basic Loops and Rolls? I'm not advance 3D, but like to add looping and rolls skills. I flied V120d02s and has started doing loops but rolls are difficult for me and getting expensive o replacing servos, rather has linear servos.

Blade mCpx V2 Stock 3D Flight With Walkera 6mm Tail motor (3 min 1 sec)


yeah I'm 100% sure it can

you will love it
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Old Aug 12, 2012, 07:49 PM
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United States, CA, San Mateo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steveap1 View Post
I'm not crashing all that much now, but when I do, it seems the mounts are always the first to go. Nice looking heli.If I didn't have my eye on the 130x, I'd seriously consider it.

http://astroid-designs.myshopify.com...px-carbon-cage

this carbon cage will solve your problem..


but that xtreme frame might be a good idea aslong as your not bombing the heli down hard on concrete lol only reason why i like the aftermarket frames is that you can replace the posts for dirt cheap or any part on it dirt cheap rather then having to strip the heli and replacing the whole stock frame all the time..

they also have aluminum upgrades like boom suport for it..


now that i think about it id say go for it lol
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 09:54 PM
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Joined Mar 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMala View Post
Yes maybe 1/2 of the crashes are due to the tail blowing out (I still have the V1 tail prop), but this happens typically when I am trying to recover from a mistake, it's not entirely the heli's fault.....
I had the same trouble but sort of though alot of it was still my fault. After going brushless I can mess up and bang the sticks around where ever i want to recover and most times now I do recover it. Tail never blows out. Its great!




Hey everyone, I figured out my 90 random tail movements that I posted about a few weeks ago. I was running a 120 tail, but switched back to an extended stock tail with kbdd blade and problem dissappeared.

This is the first time I've had my mcpx flying properly since I bought it. Great little heli with the C05 brushless. really happy with it now.
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Old Aug 16, 2012, 07:17 PM
3D VFX Artist
tonyastro's Avatar
USA, CA, Monrovia
Joined Jan 2008
2,039 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by daveapplemotor View Post
Tin your pins with a little solder. It does two things:
It makes a better connection & It won;t fall out.
I do. After soldering it looks very solid but after a few flights it just comes lose.


Quote:
Originally Posted by f.a.r.m.e.r View Post
your battery wires should not come off the board at the solder joint.. you must of over heated the pad..

the wires break behind the solder joint after a while from bending back and forth.. I would send it to someone who can fix the pad or get longer wire and solder to the back of the board, can you provide a upclose picture??

Yes the break is not behind the solder joint but on the board itself. I managed to solder it flat to the board and keep it from moving using tape. Hope this works
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