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Old Jan 07, 2012, 07:41 PM
ferndale air force
FERNDALE AIR FOR's Avatar
Joined Jul 2006
3,095 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by joliecoeur13 View Post
sorry what I mean is, the KBDD tail blades are great, but the main KBDD not so good or too heavy , I use the stock fast blades...
I had the same reaction, main blades awesome to look at but a 20% reduction in lift compared to stock 3D blades and a 40% reduction in performance to bullet blades, or stock fff blades. The tail blades are awesome.. See the video, they let me set up landings etc.

mCPX 2Jan12.wmv (4 min 2 sec)
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Old Jan 07, 2012, 09:28 PM
mCPx
Race Miata's Avatar
Vancouver, Canada
Joined Nov 2004
168 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by indoorheli View Post
So I am a bit confused as to me that is TA doing pitch curve work. Why are you using travel adjust to attempt to scale or manipulate a pitch curve when you have a pitch curve to adjust pitch and travel adjust to adjust your maximum end points
This is how I see it. "Travel adjust" scales up/down the absolute operational range that I'll ever use beyond that something bad happens: servo bind, swash bind, too much pitch to bog down motor, tire rubbing (too much steering angle in a car), etc. This is the first thing I'd set up, whether it be pitch range, steering angle range, etc. Note the word scaling. This is no different than choosing the correct hole on the circular servo arm to get the best range I need. It's just done electronically in much finer details. Once I have my absolute operational range that I'll work on, I use PC to get the shape or characteristics I want for pitch, or use expo for my steering characteristics, etc. The fact that I have safe pitch percentage between 0-100% to work on doesn't mean I have to use them all and all of the time. Of course I don't set normal PC down to zero, but for sure I'll have my stunt curve(s) going from 0-100% using up all the possible resolution I can use. Although choosing the servo arm hole or setting "travel adjust" eventually scales the final pushrod movement because they are the last legs in the calculations, they are not intended as a scaling device to vary output. Do you see the similarity between choosing the right servo arm hole and the right "travel adjust" setting?
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Old Jan 07, 2012, 09:38 PM
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Seattle, WA
Joined Apr 2006
1,167 Posts
I just got mine today. It looks to be a nice flyer. But, I think it has an issue. The tailmotor was put on crooked. Instead of being perpendicular to the main motor shaft, it appears to be 'clocked' so that the tailblades are somewhere around 1 and 7 o'clock instead of 12 and 6. Is this a problem? I noticed when doing clockwise piro's it would not just spin around in one spot. It would get pulled around and end up flying backwards. Is there an easy way to adjust the tailboom or motor so that it's vertical? It appears to be glued together.
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Old Jan 07, 2012, 09:45 PM
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M3_matt's Avatar
Lebanon,OH
Joined Oct 2002
381 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by flynfrfun View Post
I just got mine today. It looks to be a nice flyer. But, I think it has an issue. The tailmotor was put on crooked. Instead of being perpendicular to the main motor shaft, it appears to be 'clocked' so that the tailblades are somewhere around 1 and 7 o'clock instead of 12 and 6. Is this a problem? I noticed when doing clockwise piro's it would not just spin around in one spot. It would get pulled around and end up flying backwards. Is there an easy way to adjust the tailboom or motor so that it's vertical? It appears to be glued together.
The tail just pulls right out of the frame! So if you need to adjust the tail boom to straighten it out, either remove it and put in back in, or simply just give it a little twist to get it spot on.
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Old Jan 07, 2012, 09:52 PM
mCPx
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Vancouver, Canada
Joined Nov 2004
168 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by indoorheli View Post
I would choose the second option (only with a curve that suits my style) that has 100% EPA and gain the benefit of full collective range for another pitch curve.
Then I can have a normal curve of 42-45-50-75-100 and linear stunt curve with full collective pitch travel.
You're talking 100% EPA and 100 PC which is a totally different thing. Let's drop the 40% EPA # and use some # that's more realistic. Let's say mCPx can go 15* pitch at 100% servo travel and let's say with stock motor anything beyond 11* will bog down too much. For me, I'd first set EPA to 75% (.75 of 15* = 11*). Then I can safely play with PC all I want between 0-100%. This will map my 0-100 #s in a linear fashion to the absolute operating range I set earlier with EPA (and/or servo hole). You say you'd rather leave EPA at 100% and set normal PC up to 75% (I guess 30-40-50-62-75?) and stunt PC flat 75%.

Now let's say you go brushless and get more power to be able to go 15* without bogging. For me, I just set EPA to 100% and that's it. What are you going to change your PCs to? How about if you go brushless with 9T and figure with the increased head speed but not much power increase you can go 10* and make the same lift but any higher pitch it's going to bog because of the taller gearing. For me, I just set my EPA to 67% and that's it. I still retain the entire PCs in a proportional fashion. What are you going to change your PCs to?
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Old Jan 07, 2012, 10:04 PM
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Seattle, WA
Joined Apr 2006
1,167 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by M3_matt View Post
The tail just pulls right out of the frame! So if you need to adjust the tail boom to straighten it out, either remove it and put in back in, or simply just give it a little twist to get it spot on.
OK, I'm embarrassed now You are right, I gave it a harder twist than I did before I posted and it is now perfect. Sorry. FYI, I did do a search, but didn't find anything. I was worried that if it was glued, that I would splinter the boom.

Today was my first heli flying in several years. I stopped flying because I was worried that my bigger heli (King V2) was just too big and dangerous to be flying around my neighbors' houses with their little kids playing in their backyards. Yes, I could go to a park, but I just lost interest and decided to focus more on UM planes which are small and light enough to safely fly in the neighborhood. Well, got the itch again and picked up this heli since it is so small and capable. WOW! It really flies nice! I'm not a very good heli pilot but on my first flight it felt so natural that I started doing funnels. By the 3rd flight I got brave and did some flips. The tail held beautifully. Back when I was flying helis, the motor drive tail helis couldn't hold this good (Honeybees). Anyways, I'm looking forward to learning a lot with this heli. Also, Horizon's setup page in the BNF manual was awesome. I got it all programmed into my DX7 and everything is working great! That really helped since I'm so rusty on my heli knowledge.
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Old Jan 07, 2012, 10:45 PM
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QLD Australia
Joined Oct 2009
261 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by BenScoobert View Post
just bought this 12v-6v car adapter, useful for use with the mcpx standard charger
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2607235905...84.m1439.l2649
Yeah, that amperage output should just do it.
Be very careful of the polarity[check it matches the e-flite transformer plug] before you plug it into the charger unit.
Sometimes these type of units have voltage spikes a bit too[occasionally put out more voltage than the setting]

Regards, M
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Old Jan 07, 2012, 11:25 PM
mCPx
Race Miata's Avatar
Vancouver, Canada
Joined Nov 2004
168 Posts
Check final battery voltage after a few charges to make sure it doesn't go much beyond 4.20V. There are many reports of stock charger over-charge batts to much more than 4.20V. Mine always came out 4.26V+ and killed my stock batts and my 3 nanotechs. Stock charger is also very sensitive to input voltage in that final battery voltage varies upon it. Make sure the supply voltage is close to the stock adaptor.
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Old Jan 08, 2012, 03:48 AM
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United Kingdom, England, Halifax
Joined Oct 2011
180 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by minirotor View Post
Yeah, that amperage output should just do it.
Be very careful of the polarity[check it matches the e-flite transformer plug] before you plug it into the charger unit.
Sometimes these type of units have voltage spikes a bit too[occasionally put out more voltage than the setting]

Regards, M
Thanks for the tip, I'll get the multimeter on it before I use it.
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Old Jan 08, 2012, 08:32 AM
Gone Huckin'
turnerm's Avatar
Charlotte, NC
Joined Jan 2011
9,259 Posts
Ok guys... I bought the Asteroid Designs 140mm solid tail boom (just easier than doing my own and they are very fairly priced).

What is the best way to get the motor and wires off the stock boom? Any other tips on mounting it on them new boom as well?
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Old Jan 08, 2012, 08:55 AM
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United States, WA, Kent
Joined Sep 2001
718 Posts
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Originally Posted by turnerm View Post
Ok guys... I bought the Asteroid Designs 140mm solid tail boom (just easier than doing my own and they are very fairly priced).

What is the best way to get the motor and wires off the stock boom? Any other tips on mounting it on them new boom as well?
I just got done grabbing another 140mm boom a minute ago from Astroid Designs as well. (also had a fin in my cart but it went out of stock by the time I checked out!)

To get the wires out of the stock boom, I just split open the boom and pulled them out.
Then I just wrap them around the outside of the new boom.
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Old Jan 08, 2012, 09:18 AM
Gone Huckin'
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Charlotte, NC
Joined Jan 2011
9,259 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by joemi View Post
I just got done grabbing another 140mm boom a minute ago from Astroid Designs as well. (also had a fin in my cart but it went out of stock by the time I checked out!)

To get the wires out of the stock boom, I just split open the boom and pulled them out.
Then I just wrap them around the outside of the new boom.
What's the best way for splitting the boom open? I don't want to damage/cut the wires on the I side.
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Old Jan 08, 2012, 09:54 AM
2 seconds from crashing
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United States, WA, Seattle
Joined Sep 2007
7,349 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by turnerm View Post
What's the best way for splitting the boom open? I don't want to damage/cut the wires on the I side.
Take the tail motor mount off and let it hang there. Then use and x acto or a knife and push in from one side just a little and it will crack it so you can seperate it into two halves.
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Old Jan 08, 2012, 10:46 AM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
turboparker's Avatar
East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
11,656 Posts
Brushless mCP X shakedown flights

Went to our indoor session last night & flew a few flights to get used to the new setup. No aerobatics - just some FFF circuits & stuff. Wow! She sure is light on her feet & crisp on the sticks! One of the local heli guys who happens to be a sponsored team pilot was there. I asked him to fly my mCP X & really wring it out. I cranked the cyclic up to 100% & the collective up to 90%, and put in a freshly-charged Hyp 250. He flew the crap out of it! The tail held & the main rotor didn't bog out. In FFF, he could keep up with the faster planes that were there - such as the UM Pole Cat & UMX Beast 3D. He said that it flies really well. It's nice to know that I am now the only weak link in the chain. (Well....I probably was before, but there is no longer any doubt!)

Two other brushless mCP X birds were also flying last night. One of them was running really high headspeed & had the 120SR tail motor w/Walkera rotor on a 140mm boom. The other one was running the same motor & pinion as I am, but with a stock tail motor & KBDD rotor on a long boom. Both of them flew very well. Mine was the only one with a linear throttle, though.

I enjoyed my mCP X a lot in stock form, but this takes the bird to a whole new level!!

Joel
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Old Jan 08, 2012, 11:02 AM
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Joined Dec 2011
23 Posts
I have a question for the more experienced out there and for those who are familiar with the Msrx. I currently have the Msrx and can hover tail-in and nose-in pretty well. However, when the rudder is applied the heli can take off very quickly in random directions. As stated a lot on the Msrx thread there seems to be stabilization issues with this heli.

I was wondering if a tamed down Mcpx 2 would be more predictable and then would also gradually allow one to improve their skills without having to compensate for quirky, random movement from their heli. I understand constant corrective actions need to be taken to fly both these heli's but I'm looking for more predictability and less random movement.

What do those who have flown both heli's think of this?
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