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Old Nov 01, 2011, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by perschek View Post
Me too but every "extra" cent I have I always want to put into helis. I have so many airplanes and parts now that when I sell them and the money is just sitting in my paypal account I want to "upgrade" or add to my favorite models. Wish I would have just spent that money on the UMX Sbach now, if he would respond to my e-mails I'd be happy with a refund, but that aint happening so I'll eat it and hope it just comes out the other end OK
Cancel the order and notify him in writing. Make your credit card institution/bank aware of this by Ccing them on the email to MIA and dispute the charge. Get it STOPPED before it even ships out.
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Old Nov 01, 2011, 10:25 AM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
turboparker's Avatar
East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
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Originally Posted by maukabud View Post
Mostly Inert Accents?

Mario's Imbecilic Additions?
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Old Nov 01, 2011, 10:33 AM
Newb Rotary Pilot
Odenton, MD
Joined Apr 2009
409 Posts
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Originally Posted by PLMS View Post
It would be good if somebody would make this gear pusher commercially. I made this one myself at home for pressing the main gear back on. The pin guides the tool on the main shaft, the recess is deep enough to press the gear on fully.
Martin
A simple bic pen with its insides removed works very well too. Thats what I always take to the field with me when I go.

A nut driver of appropriate size is also very handy.
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Old Nov 01, 2011, 10:39 AM
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United States, NY, New York
Joined Jul 2011
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You know was there anything that in regards to his end of the contract, 7 days and not shipping is not proper business practice, there are laws against that, get your money back and buy some real stuff
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Old Nov 01, 2011, 12:38 PM
EDF Junkie
Pacific Northwest
Joined Oct 2007
1,496 Posts
Various Heli Videos

Thought I'd share a few of my videos. Blade mCP-x, Blade 120 SR and SR.

I've seen a few people with low opinions of the SR on this thread but I've had a lot of fun with mine. Sure the tail wags a bit but other than that I've had absolutely no mechanical problems with it.

Of course I've had more fun with the mCP-x. The 120 SR is a nice occasional diversion but I have only flown it a few times since getting the mCP-x a year ago.

There are a couple of crash videos of the mCP-x. I decided to share them to demonstrate how you can whack it, pick it up and go again. I fly in parks over grass to insure I'm not breaking it by hitting hard stuff.

How to crash the mCP-x while doing a back flip #1

Spektrum DX8 and Blade mCPx Micro Helicopter. Fun at the park. (1 min 3 sec)


Another how to crash the mCP-x while doing a side flip/roll video #2

Spektrum DX8 and Blade mCPx. Evening flight at the park. (2 min 5 sec)


A decent flight with some back flips
Spektrum DX8 and Blade mCPx. Backflips. (2 min 19 sec)


Flying the Blade 120 SR at the park
Spektrum DX8 and Blade 120 SR Helicopter at the Park (3 min 23 sec)


Flying the Blade SR at the park
Spektrum DX8 and E-Flite Blade SR micro helicopter at the Park. (3 min 28 sec)


My 8 year old granddaughter filming the SR in the front yard (bossy camera person).
Spektrum DX8 and E-Flite Blade SR micro helicopter. Slow flight in the front yard. (1 min 38 sec)


More SR in the front yard
Spektrum DX8 and Blade SR Micro Helicopter. Short test flight in the front yard. (1 min 24 sec)
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Old Nov 01, 2011, 12:45 PM
The new guy
Londonderry, NH
Joined Oct 2010
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Originally Posted by kokopelli View Post
Cancel the order and notify him in writing. Make your credit card institution/bank aware of this by Ccing them on the email to MIA and dispute the charge. Get it STOPPED before it even ships out.
I'm sorry to report that I own the copywright for this method of ending a business transaction. If you insist on infringing on my copywright by using this process I will sue you.

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Old Nov 01, 2011, 01:31 PM
Crash expert
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United States, TX, Austin
Joined Sep 2011
80 Posts
C05 brushless conversion consensus on tail motors?

This question is for those that have some experience with a C05 brushless conversion mCPx.

For the C05 I've seen sentiments expressed ranging from:
1) the V3 tail is fine. Lowest weight
2) dual V3 tail. Weights less then SR120 motor.
3) SR120 tail.

I know some here could make a potato and windup rubber-band fly 3d, so flying a stock V3 tail brushless conversion is just small annoyance.
For those of us just getting into a brushless conversion is there a consensus on is acceptable and what works?

Can a V3 tail work? ...or will I be fighting to keep it under control?
How much does the V3 tail limit the collective range?

Thanks.
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Old Nov 01, 2011, 01:34 PM
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United States, NY, New York
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Hey guys i finally got my mcpx acceptable again, i waiting on a landing gear the one i have now battery on angle functions fine


I wrote a very long observation about the mcpx from someone learning on them i will share them in next post
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Old Nov 01, 2011, 01:36 PM
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Stus observcation

MCPX IN DEPTH
Samuel Gotts
Hi, My name is Sam Gotts, or Stugoose on the rc flight forums and I have made some observations on the mcpx. This is an in depth experimental observation. So I have had about 7 mcpx's over the last 3 months, I at this moment have 3 ones set up for 3d, The first setup I am going to talk to you about is a very basic one, In these non-exact experiments I used the same settings on my dx8, 50, 75, 100 dual rates with 30 expo rudder remains constant 100. So I have experimented with many setups and I discovered that a helicopter using all stock parts and the v3 tail can 3d no problem, the key lies in how the transition is needed. For instance if someone Stick bangs then you will require a longer tail with a powerful rotor, But if your smooth on the transitions you can even do it with a stock MCPX with a Version 1 tail. However, I tried with the v1 tail and I can say all though it holds, it still slips, so I do not recommend the v1 tail for someone who is smooth on the sticks. Now I was trying to get across that the setup plays an important role. For instance shakes are step one when I tune a helicopter, before I even fly one out of the box, I put the canopy grommets on each of the swash balls to stop the play that occurs on the swash balls. Typically that takes care of a lot of the stock-box shakes. However I will say that the Graphite tail does not stay as steady as one made out of Carbon Fiber Tube or rod. However per a discussion with one of my buddies at a Local Hobby Shop, a common agreement was made that a carbon tube is a better choice for a boom. There are many arguments against such a Theory, Such as it is solid and wont break as easy. While that appears so, after my discussion with him I had more knowledge on how a solid rod will not break but can bend. With the carbon tube there is just the right amount of give that in a rough landing or minor crash it is fine. Another plus of the tube is that you can tell when it is cracked unlike the boom made of solid rod which accumulates internal stress. Now the carbon fiber tube is not the same as what is on the stock boom, those booms are graphite and not carbon fiber the difference think of a pencil, you can write with it, the graphite in those booms will make a mark on a piece of paper if no gloss if I am correct, the tube is stronger when carbon. Now I tuned a good mcpxs made with the aluminum blade grips and the aluminum swash, in addition to the tubes tail with the carbon fin and metal tail motor holder, and I have got to say it is the smoothest helicopter I have made to date. There are no shakes whatsoever, on a good pack the tail seems like it will stay planted during 3d maneuvers. The point is that you do not need to do much. The stock setup is my preferred 3d setup. There is not as need of finesse in terms of how the blades handle in transition. Let me explain this for instance when I pull the aft cyclic to flip it into inverted I find that the more stable and weighted the head is the better. The weighted blades are my preferred 3d blades. This is because they allow for a smooth transition ensuring the weight assists in the final arc of the transition that the cyclic servo for the aft cyclic begins. KDBD, blades typically have a wanted flex, when you flip they have the least required transitional height when I flip my helicopter with them. If I do it with the standard 'Hi-Performance' blades, then the helicopter has a rather quick transition but to regain the lost altitude in the transition makes up for the difference that the kdbd blades have in terms of altitude loss due to the kdbd blades being the lighted In My Opinion, they dont have unwanted play and give when you want them too. The setup with the Aluminum parts on it is perfect for these blades as the aluminum head does give much play so the slight flex of the kdbd blades makes up for that short point. Now, the setup involving the metal is more subtle in terms of how smooth it flies. But if I attempt to 3d that side by side with my stock v3 tailed, swash grommet modded helicopter it isnt as crisp handling for 3d. I find that that lack of play in the metal head causes a smoother transition which then passes onto the gyro to look for very fine problems. This will magnify small problems during the initial inverts. Like I said every time that I flip the helicopters each one flies completely different while having the same lovely characteristics.
Now the easiest way to learn to flip this bad boy is a simulator, but if that is not an option, I would recommend flying over the tallest grass you can find in low to no wind. This is because at first you want to learn how the helicopter handles in the aft cyclic movement which is the one I recommend to learn on. This is because when you use the aft cyclic the tail has less affect than a fore cyclic flip. The tail has to flip over the top on a fore cyclic flip whereas it goes underneath on an aft cyclic movement. Now call me crazy but I think rolls are a good starting point in addition for flipping, this is because the side cyclic are in my Opinion the most precise. There are two parallel servos acting in sync so to speak for the side cyclic whereas it is split between all of the more or less for fore and aft cyclic. But in terms on wanting to keep it inverted you want to get the nose facing you to practice inverted so aft cyclic is my choice. So one you have you pitch even in positive and negative pitch then you should use, cyclic from an altitude of 15-20 feet up to practice, I prefer to flip it from a hover. I have it at or near zero pitch give it a lot of aft cyclic and then one it goes vertical into the flip I start juicing in the negative collective. This is to ensure a smooth transition into the inverted phase. However if you punch the collective with negative the tail will most likely not hold regardless of the setup. Smooth transitions and movements on the sticks are a must for 3d flight with the mcpxs.
Now I developed a setup that was good and capable of blade taps, or when you fly inverted and go low so that your blades tap the ground, this setup was simple, weighted or as they call them bullet blades, a grommet-modded plastic swash, and in terms of tail I believe it was extended between .5-.65 inches. This setup was capable of a smooth transition from being right side up to inverting; the tail help pretty well and once inverted was very predictable in its behavior. Sometimes this would not be the case, as in if your tail is not holding when its upside up it wont hold flipped over; its a simple rule of thumb if you will.
Now I also wanted to take the time to discuss the behavior of the gyro on the board. Now most of the people that typically buy a mcpxs are looking to try their hand at collective pitch helicopters. So it is a big surprise in how it flies believes me. I moved up from the mcx to a dx6i and mcpxs. I learned on it but it takes time. This is because you have to learn collective management. The first 20 flights or so are crucial in developing the ability to hover.
I have noticed as a result of the lack of attention that I would pay to the blade grip tightness that the grips do loosen up quickly. They will also spit off the feathering shaft if not tightly tightened. My theory is that the vibrations in flight will cause this. Say that you are causing the head position to change into a flip then regardless of appearance it is in the end going to the center of the blade grips. I noticed this after my blade tap flights. That regardless of appearance the grips can all of a sudden spit off of the helicopter. I think that when you get into more intense 3d maneuvers and rapid flips, it puts stress on the joint of the blade grips, and causes them to loosen over time. Always check before each flight how snug the blade grips are. Now sometimes I notice that my blade grips have a little play in-between them. And then others it is a lot. If there is a little play I do a thorough check to make sure it is as tight as possible on the feathering spindle.
Now I will talk to you about the various ways to save your helicopter from a bad crash if it is headed that way. With the Blade Mcpxs there are occasional odd behaviors that occur when it does not like the battery or your input is too rapid. Say you are inverted and you are not able to climb inverted as the pack is getting low. What I suggest if altitude is too low to revert is too either grab it with your palm and hit the cutoff, or take minimal damage by hitting the throttle hold and letting it go down flat so that the blade grip screws touch first. Now say that you are right-side up and youre flying over grass, your tail is not holding and youre going in hard, either give your entire mite to counter the movement or without hesitation hit the throttle hold and count your damage. I find that the grass is beneficial in Fast Forward flight but harms me in inverted flight. This is because when I hover inverted I like to go less those 5 inches from the ground when hovering and if I do that in grass the blades will hit the grass and most likely stop moving. So for the most part I go to my New York City intersection when traffic is dead and flip it over the pavement and practice there. I would much rather scrape a blade then have the blades stop due to inability to penetrate the grass, because remember the mcpxs rotor head does not carry the same energy as a more powerful helicopter, so this causes a lack of resistance to hitting something and continuation of movement.


I have recently discovered that with the flybarless setup that the mcpxs has the swash needs to be adjusted to center manually or it will be off. This is because the servos at center will think they are center but if one rod is offset it will not catch that. I have heard about people saying that their developing cyclic drift overtime. I discovered that by me recently as well on of the rods was bent at a different height causing this zero pitched cyclic drift. The Mcpxs is a sensitive helicopter to fly. Every movement needs to be smooth or the cyclic will not react right. This is not a Stick-Banging Helicopter. If you have it on 100 percent dual rates and give it full forward cyclic jolt followed by a leveling rear one, it will have difficulty stabilizing. The gyro is very sensitive on the mcpxs and must be flown with respect to it. The fact that this is a tiny, collective pitch, direct drive tail, flybarless, helicopter makes it significantly harder to learn on than a 450 or bigger helicopter as I am told. But the price makes it appealing to learn on. So whatever your reason for consideration or purchase of the mcpxs it is a good jumping off point to venture off into the world of RC FLIGHT.
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Old Nov 01, 2011, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris_F View Post
I'm sorry to report that I own the copywright for this method of ending a business transaction. If you insist on infringing on my copywright by using this process I will sue you.

That's freakin great! We should all be careful though because it's Halloween season and Mario like many other frightening things will magically appear if you say his name three times

We crossed that line already so look for a scary new member to magically join RCG and appear soon threatening dreadful things to us all
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Old Nov 01, 2011, 01:57 PM
GEEBEE Can't WAIT!
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USA, OR, Seaside
Joined Dec 2010
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My god Stu, I'm going to have to wait until 5 when I can have a beer to read that novel. Hope its worth it..
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Old Nov 01, 2011, 02:00 PM
Ta-dah!
blakevan's Avatar
Texas
Joined May 2007
4,468 Posts
Where is a good place to get lipos for this little dude?

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...dProduct=17808

This looks like the best but I hate shipping from HK.
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Old Nov 01, 2011, 02:00 PM
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It is observations and insight more than tips, but hopefully will guide you,

I figured id share it as my last deed in the mcpx threads lol jk

I just will be more focused on 450 but will still keep you guys entertained with observations on my mcpx/s i have bought about 5 new and 3 used wow


edit: I typed that to and from college on the subway because i got bored lol
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Old Nov 01, 2011, 02:01 PM
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United States, NY, New York
Joined Jul 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blakevan View Post
Where is a good place to get lipos for this little dude?

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...dProduct=17808

This looks like the best but I hate shipping from HK.

lectron sells in packs of 2 and they are the best ive used by far


they sell for about 10 plus 5 shipping or 15 shipped

they are worth it i get 3 minutes of full 3d with about a minute of nice sportflying before i stop flying
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Old Nov 01, 2011, 02:02 PM
GEEBEE Can't WAIT!
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USA, OR, Seaside
Joined Dec 2010
1,422 Posts
Stu what kinda board do you have for me to do the BL mod on? I want a stock board and a BL board And how much? go easy on me now.
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