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Old Sep 28, 2011, 04:20 PM
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indoorheli's Avatar
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I know the motor doesn't matter I could read your post two ways.. Speed of rotor or speed of thumbs. Either way as I said it won't work.

The friction I am speaking about is between the rotor AND the helicopters body. The body is so light and is the reason people haven't gotten it to work with an added one way bearing. Now if you load up the auw so the disk loading is higher the maybe you can auto it.

If you go try to do autos as is your body will spin with the blades as there isn't enough weight pulling downward to hold it in position as larger scale heli's.
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Old Sep 28, 2011, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by mhunter View Post
hobbyzone or horizon? I have one on the way from horizon and it had better be the new one...

So, has anyone ever definitively figured out if the motor is indeed a different one and just not the t/r blade that changed?
hobbyzone
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Old Sep 28, 2011, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by indoorheli View Post
I know the motor doesn't matter I could read your post two ways.. Speed of rotor or speed of thumbs. Either way as I said it won't work.

The friction I am speaking about is between the rotor AND the helicopters body. The body is so light and is the reason people haven't gotten it to work with an added one way bearing. Now if you load up the auw so the disk loading is higher the maybe you can auto it.

If you go try to do autos as is your body will spin wihthe blades as here isn't enough weight pulling downward to hold it in position as larger scale heli's.
It isn't friction or weight "pulling down" that's keeping the fuselage from rotating. It's the higher "dead weight" inertia (tendency to remain in place and resist motion) of the heavier heli fuselage. Again, you do NOT want friction, even though you really can't do anything about the friction in the bearings. That bearing friction/drag is what's causing the fuselage to rotate in the same direction as the blades.

But, you bring up a good point. I didn't consider the rotation of the fuselage in something as light as the mCP X. Just that an auto with a hub is actually feasible, even though it would be difficult with the rotation. Enough airspeed in FF would weather vane the tail until the "pull, pause, level" part prior to touchdown.
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Old Sep 28, 2011, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by mhunter View Post
The motor type has nothing to do with steady state autorotative flight. BUT, this is on the predication that this hypothetical mCP X has an auto hub to disengage the main rotor and allow it to freewheel when power off.



What is this "friction" that's needed to be kept? Reversing the airflow and, therefore, relative wind (by lowering the pitch) to come from below up through the rotor disk is what keeps the blade spinning. Friction anywhere would only detract from the autorotative aerodynamic force that's maintaining head speed (Nr).
On the little one's without a oneway bearing,,, motor type makes a big difference,, Iron core will not work,, brushless will not work BUT a coreless brushed like on the Genius just might.. Remember they turn over with very little if any magnetism caused drag..
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Old Sep 28, 2011, 04:37 PM
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indoorheli's Avatar
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I dont have a degree in helicopter flight but i do have an idea of what it needs to make it work properly. So call it Friction... Air resistance...Weight... Deadweight... Diskloading really what ever you would like to call it the mcpx doesn't have enough for it to work correctly for autos.. and that was my point

Now if you just want The blades to rotate freely for scale look on landing that is a possibility with just the one way bearing and no extra weight
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Old Sep 28, 2011, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by indoorheli View Post
I dont have a degree in helicopter flight but i do have an idea of what it needs to make it work properly. So call it Friction... Air resistance...Weight... Deadweight... Diskloading really what ever you would like to call it the mcpx doesn't have enough for it to work correctly for autos.. and that was my point

Now if you just want The blades to rotate freely for scale look on landing that is a possibility
Fair enough. But friction is not the same thing as inertia. I'm sure Sir Isaac Newton would agree with that whole "things at rest tend to stay at rest" concept...
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Old Sep 28, 2011, 06:53 PM
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My rear swashplate servo is sticking. I took the servo off the board and cleaned the contact track with an eraser, which helped the first time this happened. But it didnt help this time. Is there anything else I can try before buying a new servo?
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Old Sep 28, 2011, 07:01 PM
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My rear swashplate servo is sticking. I took the servo off the board and cleaned the contact track with an eraser, which helped the first time this happened. But it didnt help this time. Is there anything else I can try before buying a new servo?
Sticking?? isn't this most often caused by a little piece of grit or a bad spot on the white gear? Where dirty or worn out cause quivering? I just keep mine hosed down with Tri-Flow..
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Old Sep 28, 2011, 07:04 PM
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indoorheli's Avatar
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Originally Posted by mhunter View Post
Fair enough. But friction is not the same thing as inertia. I'm sure Sir Isaac Newton would agree with that whole "things at rest tend to stay at rest" concept...
Nope it isn't the same but I was talking about disk-loading stopping the mcpx from auto rotations... Anyhow you got what I meant you can install a one way bearing and I will continue to spin but it still won't be able to autorotate landing. It just won't work unless you make it a heavier heli and install a one way bearing....and have some way to power the tail solo while it autos
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Last edited by indoorheli; Sep 28, 2011 at 07:11 PM. Reason: Forgot something
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Old Sep 28, 2011, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Hornetnz View Post
My rear swashplate servo is sticking. I took the servo off the board and cleaned the contact track with an eraser, which helped the first time this happened. But it didnt help this time. Is there anything else I can try before buying a new servo?
Yes, sounds like you have binding somewhere. Check the two white gears for any foreign material. Try blowing out the slider area (long slot) with some canned compressed air like you'd use to clean a keyboard. Dirty servo tracks usually cause the servo to jitter or move unreliably, but not sticking, per se. Is it actually jamming and not moving any farther in the direction you're commanding?
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Old Sep 28, 2011, 07:12 PM
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It moves freely. What happens is when I change the pitch, it sometimes doesnt move at all. But when I *barely* touch the larger white gear, it will zip into correct position. I'm pretty sure there is nothing foreign in the slider.
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Old Sep 28, 2011, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Hornetnz View Post
It moves freely. What happens is when I change the pitch, it sometimes doesnt move at all. But when I *barely* touch the larger white gear, it will zip into correct position. I'm pretty sure there is nothing foreign in the slider.
NOT the slider the WHITE gear it has either a little piece of grit or a bad tooth... Mark on the gear where it's hanging up then check that area very closely.. Bad tooth can often be fixed with a hobby knife..
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Old Sep 28, 2011, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Hornetnz View Post
It moves freely. What happens is when I change the pitch, it sometimes doesnt move at all. But when I *barely* touch the larger white gear, it will zip into correct position. I'm pretty sure there is nothing foreign in the slider.
As recommended previously, check the interaction between the two round gears at the bottom end of the servo board. You could have a piece of dirt and/or a damaged tooth or two that's causing the hangup. It most likely won't be in the slider slot. I said to blow it out with air because it can't hurt and dirt gets in there as well.

If you're really careful, you can slide one of the gears and disengage the gear mesh just enough to check if both components spin freely BY HAND on their own. The servo motor shaft and the white gear that turns the worm/jack screw that moves the slider up and down. If both gears turn freely by hand, then you're pretty much assured the mechanical binding is in the gear mesh. Inspect closely under magnification.
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Old Sep 28, 2011, 07:31 PM
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Sorry misread your post. The gears appear perfect. Teeth all intact and clean.
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Old Sep 28, 2011, 07:32 PM
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Sorry misread your post. The gears appear perfect. Teeth all intact and clean.
Well, at this point, carefully try tearing it down further. What's to lose? Order a spare servo in the mean time. Always a good part to have one or four on hand.
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