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Old Mar 17, 2011, 07:47 PM
Heli collector
livonia bob's Avatar
United States, MI, Livonia
Joined Apr 2009
16,526 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Air Vaca View Post
Hi jabsten,
Be very careful with CA on the boom with the wires in it...it doesn't take much CA to mess up the insulation on the wires.
If you need to reinforce the boom, I suggest wrapping vulnerable areas of it with cotton thread and apply CA to that. I wonder how cotton fabric would work? The thread really helps.

regards,
Bill
Now you tell me I just finished CA my boom... Never heard that CA will mess up the insulation heck I have used CA as insulation..
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Old Mar 17, 2011, 07:47 PM
Tail-in hover expert ;)
mediclavina's Avatar
United States, LA, Shreveport
Joined Aug 2006
936 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hasher66 View Post
...
When in normal mode, (and especially indoors), set your Throttle Hold pitch curve to 100% across the board. I tried it the other day just for fun when you brought it up, and it works really well.

When you hit TH, the thing poofs up like a little cotton ball and the rotor head energy is dissipated very quickly due to the extra drag.

Works like a charm for when I'm flying in tights spaces indoors and I need to bail quickly.
I see an issue with that method. If you want to stop the heli from hitting something by turning Throttle Hold on, it would even throw itself to the direction it was going. Moreover, if you happen to hit the TH while the heli is upright, you unnecessarily make it fall from a higher point. You might even hit something above it (like the ceiling).
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Old Mar 17, 2011, 07:53 PM
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Prescott, AZ
Joined Jan 2011
2,380 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by mediclavina View Post
I see an issue with that method. If you want to stop the heli from hitting something by turning Throttle Hold on, it would even throw itself to the direction it was going. Moreover, if you happen to hit the TH while the heli is upright, you unnecessarily make it fall from a higher point. You might even hit something above it (like the ceiling).
That's what I was thinking, regarding that last part. Leave the pitch where it is when you hit TH. No jump ups desired here. Lower the collective if you actually have a heli actually capable of doing autorotations, i.e. with a one-way/auto main gear hub. Not the case with the mCP X... I'd just freeze the collective and let it feather down. Those blades are going to stop PDQ anyways...
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Old Mar 17, 2011, 07:58 PM
Registered User
Holland
Joined Jan 2003
27 Posts
Landing skid stretch mod for Hyperion 240

Hi everybody. Very happy with my heli especially the handling outside with wind.

I used my covering iron and some drill-bits and drills to stretch the battery holder. A normal iron should work as well, just make sure the plastic does not melt.

The pictures speak for themselves. Use cold water before you remove the drills. Check and adjust your skid geometry so your mCP X keeps the same stance.

At the end I used a 6mm, 7mm, and a 7.5mm drill. And cut off and sanded the little notches/ridges inside of the battery holder.

Now the skid fits the Hyperion's like a glove.
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Old Mar 17, 2011, 08:05 PM
Can't get enough
jabsten's Avatar
United States, WA, Puyallup
Joined May 2010
2,288 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Air Vaca View Post
Hi jabsten,
Be very careful with CA on the boom with the wires in it...it doesn't take much CA to mess up the insulation on the wires.
If you need to reinforce the boom, I suggest wrapping vulnerable areas of it with cotton thread and apply CA to that. I wonder how cotton fabric would work? The thread really helps.

regards,
Bill
Thanks Bill for the advice, never thought of that before. On my second boom I decided to reinforce with hot glue.
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Old Mar 17, 2011, 08:45 PM
Registered User
Joined Jun 2008
775 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jabsten View Post
Oh I see...I don't slam down at mid stick lol. I get what your saying, why do you have inhbt on the other 2 points? Also have you been using the recommended idle up pitch curves, and if so have they worked out for you?
Yes I am using the recommended idle up pitch curves and it transitions very well between modes. Depending on the heli someone might want to change their normal throttle curve for a smooth transition in hover. On a side note I am also in the ball park were I see no throttle / head speed sound change between 80% and 100%. I set my ST-1 at 80% across the board just to verify.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Hasher66 View Post
BTW D
When in normal mode, (and especially indoors), set your Throttle Hold pitch curve to 100% across the board. I tried it the other day just for fun when you brought it up, and it works really well.

When you hit TH, the thing poofs up like a little cotton ball and the rotor head energy is dissipated very quickly due to the extra drag.

Works like a charm for when I'm flying in tights spaces indoors and I need to bail quickly.
Like others I don't think this is a good idea as you are directing the energy. For people new to CP I recommend the 50% setting across the board in case they slam the throttle, and it keeps things neutral. I could see having a little positive pitch across the board for a little more float similar to a FP heli and to slow things down a little faster, but with the motor drag I think the mCPx TH is pretty quick, even though it spins like a top.
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Old Mar 17, 2011, 09:16 PM
Registered User
Australia...we live inverted.
Joined May 2008
5,409 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Micha View Post
Hi everybody. Very happy with my heli especially the handling outside with wind.

I used my covering iron and some drill-bits and drills to stretch the battery holder. A normal iron should work as well, just make sure the plastic does not melt.

The pictures speak for themselves. Use cold water before you remove the drills. Check and adjust your skid geometry so your mCP X keeps the same stance.

At the end I used a 6mm, 7mm, and a 7.5mm drill. And cut off and sanded the little notches/ridges inside of the battery holder.

Now the skid fits the Hyperion's like a glove.
Nice work.

Please let us know how the Hyps do in comparison. The stock packs drop voltage pretty progressively.

There was a discharge graph posted here:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attac...mentid=3872618
Which shows them to be below average whe compared to larger good quality cells.

Here's another discharge graph comparing cells avail and used in the MSR.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1103

Hoping the Hyps stay nice an high for most of the flight.

People are talking alot about collective management BUT what I have found is after about 1min into the flight the heli needs a rest after a flip so the rpm can raise again. With successive flips or rolls it is very difficult to maintain rpm. I know this is the nature of this heli but just a little more V is really going to help.

Amp
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Old Mar 17, 2011, 09:32 PM
Registered User
Joined Oct 2008
46 Posts
mCP X problem - swash pitches full forward

Hi All,

New mCP X, never crashed, has a problem:

In normal flight mode, (not idle-up), move the throttle up just a little, before the motor begins to spin but applying some power, and the collective pitches the swashplate to full forward pitch over about 3-4 seconds. Not a single servo, but collectively. Just move the throttle up just a little, take your hands off and the swash move, by itself, to full forward pitch over a few seconds. Just sit and watch it slowly move.

Pull back on the cyclic to compensate works, but it just moves back by itself.

Spin up the motor quickly so the blades turn, say 1/3 power, and it does the same thing, pitching full forward over a couple of seconds.

With throttle hold ON, moving the collective (throttle) from off to full power, the swashplate moves up and down, maintaining level as it should. Only when power is applied does this happen.

I've got to put in a good word for Horizon Hobby here. I called their support about 6:15pm (they close at 7:00pm), and requested a call back. Got a call back at 9:00 pm, two hours after they close and spoke with Todd. He was friendly and helpful. He said that it is so new that they don't know all of the problems yet.

They are sending a replacement controller board. Thanks Horizon! I had waited so long... Was not sure I could survive a few more weeks of waiting.

Hopefully this helps anybody else who might have the same problem.

Mark
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Old Mar 17, 2011, 09:48 PM
Pro beginner
rchelijc's Avatar
Melbourne, Australia
Joined Aug 2010
768 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by greper View Post
Hi All,

New mCP X, never crashed, has a problem:

In normal flight mode, (not idle-up), move the throttle up just a little, before the motor begins to spin but applying some power, and the collective pitches the swashplate to full forward pitch over about 3-4 seconds. Not a single servo, but collectively. Just move the throttle up just a little, take your hands off and the swash move, by itself, to full forward pitch over a few seconds. Just sit and watch it slowly move.

Pull back on the cyclic to compensate works, but it just moves back by itself.

Spin up the motor quickly so the blades turn, say 1/3 power, and it does the same thing, pitching full forward over a couple of seconds.

With throttle hold ON, moving the collective (throttle) from off to full power, the swashplate moves up and down, maintaining level as it should. Only when power is applied does this happen.

...
Mark
Mark, that's how it is on mine too, and as far as I know, it's normal. Gyros don't behave properly when stationary, and the 3-axis FBL is the same. It's the high-freq vibes (which we can't see) that causes the gyros to loop. It goes something like this:

- it detects a slight backward tilt (actually its just the vibration)
- it moves the swash a little forward to compensate
- it detects no change, hence it keeps the swash in the same forward position
- it detects a slight backward tilt again
- it moves the swash a little forward
- it detects no change, so the swash is left as it is
- and again and again and again until it is all the way forward.

At the moment of lift-off, it should correct itself almost instantaneously. If not, then you've got a problem.
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Old Mar 17, 2011, 10:13 PM
M____ FL__RS
ransideous's Avatar
SA AUS.
Joined Jul 2010
559 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ICU View Post
Hi all,

I installed my hyperon 240 battery mount from Dylwad last night. I looks and works very nice, although I did have to sand the inside of the mount slightly to fit my batts (which is good, better tight than loose).

Afterwards I wanted to make sure the heli still balances out good with the slightly heavier Hyperon.

I snapped the links off the blade grips and placed the blades on two cups. The heli is now balancing on the bearings and spindle shaft. This was the only way I could think of to do it since there is no flybar. Was I right?

First I installed the stock battery where it would normally be. And it was very nose heavy, same goes for the hyperons. If I want it to balance out to boom level the battery is barely in the mount (for both the stock and hyperon). Does the 3-axis board automatically adjust for this? Do I need to move the mount to make the boom level? Ideally you would want it level but if the board compensates for it I'm gonna leave it be.

Thanks
what about the fs shaft, using a hook in there would give a more accurate cg reading.
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Old Mar 17, 2011, 10:36 PM
Registered User
Joined Oct 2008
46 Posts
Hi rchelijc,

Huh. Makes lift off a hair pulling freak show. Unless I punch it, the heli would nose dive into the dirt. I also don't get positive pitch while holding it in my hand at full power. If I spin up to full power while holding it in my hand, it's full forward pitch. I've seen smooth take offs on youtube, not having to punch it to full power and then trying to regain control.

However, once flying it can fly, kind of like you suggest, but it's hard to fly.

However, I have no previous experience with FBL, but as you suggest I think that I have a problem.

BTW, Michigan USA. Still snow on the ground.
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Old Mar 17, 2011, 11:26 PM
Registered User
Berkeley, CA
Joined Oct 2004
1,895 Posts
Finally picked a BNF MCPx, went to LHS last weekend and it was sold out and I was # twenty something in the waiting list. I bind it to DX7 following the info in the manual, the control is a little sluggish and the tail control is pretty slow, the motor bogs down when accelerate at maiden flight; I adjust the rudder travel to 150% and flipped the bird in the 2nd pack, very stable hovering inverted, requires a lot of collective management flipping her otherwise the bird will fall like a brick.

There's too many MCPx posts/threads, can someone point me to some proven post(s) of good DX7 settings to the heli. I'd like to setup the radio to fly more tomorrow. Thanks.
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Old Mar 17, 2011, 11:38 PM
Pro beginner
rchelijc's Avatar
Melbourne, Australia
Joined Aug 2010
768 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by greper View Post
Hi rchelijc,

Huh. Makes lift off a hair pulling freak show. Unless I punch it, the heli would nose dive into the dirt. I also don't get positive pitch while holding it in my hand at full power. If I spin up to full power while holding it in my hand, it's full forward pitch. I've seen smooth take offs on youtube, not having to punch it to full power and then trying to regain control.

However, once flying it can fly, kind of like you suggest, but it's hard to fly.

However, I have no previous experience with FBL, but as you suggest I think that I have a problem.

BTW, Michigan USA. Still snow on the ground.
Sounds like you have a problem. Holding it in my hand also has funny cyclic reactions.

But, it should be a smooth and gentle takeoff.

Was in Chicago in Dec - would've thought it'll be spring by now.

Then again, people were telling me it's worse up in Wisconsin / Michigan...
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Old Mar 17, 2011, 11:40 PM
Bruno, GOOD DOG
A Rdnek's Avatar
United States, IA, Grinnell
Joined Aug 2007
4,022 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by estarter View Post
Finally picked a BNF MCPx, went to LHS last weekend and it was sold out and I was # twenty something in the waiting list. I bind it to DX7 following the info in the manual, the control is a little sluggish and the tail control is pretty slow, the motor bogs down when accelerate at maiden flight; I adjust the rudder travel to 150% and flipped the bird in the 2nd pack, very stable hovering inverted, requires a lot of collective management flipping her otherwise the bird will fall like a brick.

There's too many MCPx posts/threads, can someone point me to some proven post(s) of good DX7 settings to the heli. I'd like to setup the radio to fly more tomorrow. Thanks.

Here is one of the threads you forgot to post in.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...8#post17713382
Ron
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Old Mar 17, 2011, 11:48 PM
Z06 Tony's Avatar
United States, NY, Rochester
Joined Sep 2008
7,107 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by estarter View Post
Finally picked a BNF MCPx, went to LHS last weekend and it was sold out and I was # twenty something in the waiting list. I bind it to DX7 following the info in the manual, the control is a little sluggish and the tail control is pretty slow, the motor bogs down when accelerate at maiden flight; I adjust the rudder travel to 150% and flipped the bird in the 2nd pack, very stable hovering inverted, requires a lot of collective management flipping her otherwise the bird will fall like a brick.

There's too many MCPx posts/threads, can someone point me to some proven post(s) of good DX7 settings to the heli. I'd like to setup the radio to fly more tomorrow. Thanks.
Just go to HH website and download the settings
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