|Mar 11, 2011, 09:36 PM|
Create new profile/model in Tx, leave all settings default, DSM type, Heli type, swash type is 1 servo 90deg. My Tx defaults to Mode 1 for new models so I changed mine to mode 2.
Switch off Tx.
Turn on mcpx - wait until lights are flickering continuously - that's bind mode.
There's the bind button on the Tx's DSM2 module - press and hold while turning on the Tx. Select RF-ON to turn on transmission. Keep the bind button pressed.
Wait until the mcpx's light turns solid. When it does, binding is complete.
|Mar 12, 2011, 05:55 AM|
Futaba 10CHP settings
For those who are flying Futaba, here are the settings I'm using on my 10CHP. I also attached a Word doc.
D/R (switch D):
Note: D/R & Expo on Ch 1 & 2 only
1 Aile 100/100
2 Elev 100/100
3 Thro 100/100
4 Rudd 100/100
5 Gyro 100/100
6 Pitch 75/75
Reverse: 1 Aile, 2 Elev, 3 Thro, 4 Rudd, 6 Pitc
Idle-up: Switch E
Throttle Hold: Switch G Down
|Mar 12, 2011, 06:52 AM|
Joined Mar 2010
|Mar 12, 2011, 10:33 AM|
Joined Mar 2011
with the throttle all the way down , the gyros are inhibited , once you throttle up , even a small amount , the gyros start to correct for tipping
the cyclic works regardless of throttle position though
and if you use throttle hold , you can still see pitch changes , and cyclic changes , but the gyros are inhibited , cheers
|Mar 12, 2011, 10:49 AM|
Joined Mar 2011
there has been a lot of talk about the blade grip bearings failing , and whether they are installed correctly , or just not up to par , or damaged in crashes , it is not clear at this point what is causing this problem
if you are hovering inside , close to yourself and at eye level , please be warned , that the blades can fly off , and with headspeeds up around 4000 RPM , you do not want to get hit in the face ( eyes ) , this is true with all helis , and i am just mentioning it as a safety issue
there are two schools of thought on what the proper way to install the bearings should be
i am uploading a photo from another thread , that has a good closeup of both sides of the bladegrip bearings
the bearing on the right shows the wider outer race , and is being called the silver side
and the bearing on the left shows the narrower outer race and since you can see the copper ball retaining cage , it is Being called the copper side
there is one consensus that the bearing should be installed , so that the silver side is closest to the main shaft , the idea being that the thicker edge will take more of the thrust load
and as usual with the web , you can find posts telling you the opposite
here is a link to the other side of the coin , saying that the problem is having the ball retainer cage facing out as the cause of the problem
this pretty much leaves it to you to decide what is the right way to install the bearings , both arguments make sense
i've also included a rough sketch of a cross section of one blade grip , with the bearings installed
the blade grip is in blue , and the spindle shaft is in brown , due to centripetal force , the blade grip would be trying to go towards the right , , pulling the outer race with it , the inner race is held in place by the dark brown shoulder on the spindle shaft , due to the blade grips inner shoulder , the bearing on the right is taking pretty much all of the thrust load
please note : none of this has been confirmed by HH , and what i am posting is just a consensus picked up off the web , i am posting just so people are aware of some of the problems being posted
it has also been suggested that the bearing can be swapped out for Alight 250 washout bearings , that may be of a better quality , the size of these bearing is 4mm X 1.5mm X 1.2mm
also i feel that over time the actual issue here will be resolved , whether it turns out to be that new , better bearings are needed , or that it is just being sure the bearings are installed correctly , so i think it is important to get this information out
what i find interesting , is that even with three camps , being say , copper in , copper out , and new Align bearings , because there are so many people flying , collectively we will get to the bottom of the issue , or perhaps HH will weigh in and come up with a solution
|Mar 12, 2011, 03:04 PM|
Joined Jul 2007
Count me amongst the new MCPx owner's. it was just sitting there on the LHS shelf, all by it's little lonesome self and I just couldn't resist!
I've hovered it in the garage a couple of times (23mph gusts outside). Amazingly stable, almost like the mSR's I'm used to but I could tell it could move fast if I pushed the sticks around. I was surprised though that It was overall easier to fly than I thought it would be.
|Mar 12, 2011, 04:02 PM|
I'm going to replace the bearings on the blade grips of my mCPx with the spare bearings from my GAUI 200. I noticed on one side the cage is visible. Which side should be facing out (towards the blade) when putting this on the mCPx blade grip?
|Mar 13, 2011, 12:25 AM|
Reducing effect of tail blowout
This 'discovery' is not really something I went looking for.
anyway, I've been planting my mcpx into the grass/glass/etc badly trying to figure out why all of a sudden I lost cyclic authority. It turns out I set dual rates on the rudder switch (I swear I thought I set them to flight modes.. oh well..)
Long story short, splintered the CF tail boom, and noticed that it got pushed into the frame a little. I pulled it out, CA'ed the fibres back together then decided to not push it all the way in like it was before.
[I got this way back with the Blade 400 - I set the stock gyro just until tail-wag disappeared. But, as the tail belt loosened during break in, you had to re-tension it by pulling the boom out a little. This caused tail-wag to come back due to more pivot force from the longer boom, and I had to dial the gyro down again.]
The net result - slightly longer boom, and better tail authority. Tail blow-outs on the mcpx are reduced on throttle punch-outs.
In terms of CG, it probably moved a little, but the FBL took care of that.
|Mar 13, 2011, 12:42 AM|
Low-tech solution to a high tech problem
I used 30lb test braided fishing line, tied to both ball links, and looped under the feathering shaft so even if both unlinked in a crash, they'd be unable to fly off to oblivion. 30lb is overkill, but that's what I've got spare.
What 30lb braid is good for is holding one blade grip to the other, in case of bearing failure. so use some strong braid (I used 50lb for absolute security), looped around each blade grip (between blade and feathering shaft) and made a slightly loose loop to allow movement, but not too much so that it could get caught elsewhere. From the looks of it, it doesn't look like it could get caught anyway since the whole head moves as one.
There you go - peace of mind as you fly. In the event of a bearing failure, it'll be one lovely snap and tumble, but at least the blade stays with the heli and won't embed itself in someone's eye.
|Mar 13, 2011, 01:00 AM|
|Mar 13, 2011, 12:18 PM|
I knotted the loop above the main shaft so it forms like a fig-8 when viewed from above - zero chance of interfering with the blade collective movements.
|Mar 13, 2011, 12:22 PM|
hey everyone my lhs just got these in stock, heading down to get one, i have a question
the blades that come with it
should i start with the stunt blades or the fast flight blades?
ill be flying with my dx6i
just wanted to know witch one would be more stable in learning hovering
im not new to cp i have a blade 400, but this little sucker looks very responsive!
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