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Old Mar 30, 2011, 04:58 PM
2 seconds from crashing
indoorheli's Avatar
United States, WA, Seattle
Joined Sep 2007
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Originally Posted by VaderSS View Post
I've got my bottom stick at 50, with the next step up at 45. Gives me plenty of negative pitch for dealing with wind.
Interesting...but what is the flying benefit for you to have it that way rather than both at 45 or bottom at 45 and 2nd at 47 ish? Do you still have 0 (50) at mid?
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Old Mar 30, 2011, 05:12 PM
Skill Seeker
Cordelia, CA
Joined Jan 2011
268 Posts
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Originally Posted by indoorheli View Post
Interesting...but what is the flying benefit for you to have it that way rather than both at 45 or bottom at 45 and 2nd at 47 ish? Do you still have 0 (50) at mid?
Not a flying benefit. A crashing benefit, LOL! So if I dumb-thumb it to bottom stick, it floats down. 50 at mid stick, yes. About to start putting negative pitch in at the bottom though, as I've not dumb thumbed it down in a while, but used th.
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Old Mar 30, 2011, 05:13 PM
Skill Seeker
Cordelia, CA
Joined Jan 2011
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Originally Posted by Deserthobbies View Post
are you flying pod and boom or a heavy fuse ?
stock mCP X.
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Old Mar 30, 2011, 05:19 PM
Registered User
Scotland
Joined Sep 2009
66 Posts
First flight opinions.
My previous experience is Walkera 4-3, CB 100 and e-flight MSR.
I can fly the CB and MSR happily around the house, through doorways, down corridors, nose in, that sort of level. I can follow my 4-3 around the house taking it easy. I can keep it in a hover either side and nose in but not much more. Probably about 5 hours sim time with a nice MCP-X model one of the posters here created (big thanks).

So this might be helpful to others moving from micro FP to micro CP.

Firstly, wasn't comfortable with the instructions telling me to not touch cyclic on take off. I didn't have much room ( 6 ft square for the first 2 feet and then about 8 ft square) so for people at my level I would recommend more room at least until you get used to it. And yup I did follow the instructions and managed to take off and get it into a hover.
It didn't require as much cyclic correction as the 4-3 but of course it did more than the MSR. The default low trim (4e as supplied RTF) is nicely set up for keeping it in one spot. Small movements on the cyclic control gave tiny movements on the helicopter. No darting about requiring fast correction. Nice and slow drifting giving you plenty of time to correct with small movements. The tail held absolutely solid. The only time I used the rudder was when I wanted to change direction.
The big difference I quickly found out was the collective. There was none of the lag I was used to with FP. On initial take off I had it bobbing up and down until I got the hang of it. A normal height room was plenty for this though.
I wasn't brave enough to try anything more than drifting it around the room tail in.

So overall a successful first flight. The sim time was a must though. Sim both the MSR and the MCP X if you don't believe me. With this in mind I would recommend this as a step up from the MSR. Just don't expect to throw it around the living room with the same abandon on first flight. I was very nervous though and being very patient with it.
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Old Mar 30, 2011, 05:38 PM
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ihover's Avatar
United Kingdom, Knutsford
Joined Feb 2011
204 Posts
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Originally Posted by indoorheli View Post
YOU DO NOT WANT THIS. The "theory" you are going by is incorrect. A CP heli will not hover with 0 pitch period and it is not suppose to!. This is why you have had to add pitch to get it to hover mid stick. If you want your heli to fly right you need to do some adjustments and get it back to 0 at midstick and hovering at 70-75% of the stick.

BTW I am flipping my heli with a pitch around 10 degrees pos and around 9 neg...... So I would guess my hover is at about 5 degrees
Thanks for the help here. To be honest I saw quite a few people saying to adjust the push rods to get it hovering at mid stick. I do not do inverted on mCP X yet, but learning that on Phoenix and wish to get an mCP X setup that is good for now and later with inverted.

But please clarify, if it hovers at 75% stick upright then I only have 25% above this for climbing, and 75% for descending. If I inverted it would it be the same, i.e. it would hover at 25% stick?

p.s. I am using the throttle and pitch curves on DX6i as in the mCP X manual, and fly most of the time in idle up for stability and not having to wait for the heli to "float" down.
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Old Mar 30, 2011, 05:40 PM
2 seconds from crashing
indoorheli's Avatar
United States, WA, Seattle
Joined Sep 2007
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Originally Posted by VaderSS View Post
Not a flying benefit. A crashing benefit, LOL! So if I dumb-thumb it to bottom stick, it floats down. 50 at mid stick, yes. About to start putting negative pitch in at the bottom though, as I've not dumb thumbed it down in a while, but used th.
Ahha
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Old Mar 30, 2011, 05:52 PM
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livonia bob's Avatar
United States, MI, Livonia
Joined Apr 2009
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Originally Posted by ihover View Post
Thanks for the help here. To be honest I saw quite a few people saying to adjust the push rods to get it hovering at mid stick. I do not do inverted on mCP X yet, but learning that on Phoenix and wish to get an mCP X setup that is good for now and later with inverted.

But please clarify, if it hovers at 75% stick upright then I only have 25% above this for climbing, and 75% for descending. If I inverted it would it be the same, i.e. it would hover at 25% stick?

p.s. I am using the throttle and pitch curves on DX6i as in the mCP X manual, and fly most of the time in idle up for stability and not having to wait for the heli to "float" down.
And what about a couple of hundred saying to set it up for 0 pitch at half throttle.. And you went with the few people?? And how come none of us saw what these few people wrote?? So we could of corrected them? Mine hover at about 65/70% throttle in normal mode. And have lots left for climbing. Any more and the tail will not hold..
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Old Mar 30, 2011, 05:53 PM
2 seconds from crashing
indoorheli's Avatar
United States, WA, Seattle
Joined Sep 2007
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Originally Posted by ihover View Post
But please clarify, if it hovers at 75% stick upright then I only have 25% above this for climbing, and 75% for descending. If I inverted it would it be the same, i.e. it would hover at 25% stick?.
Correct, but the 25-30% you have above the hover point can be a very powerful amount for climbing depending on how you have it setup. Also once you get it moving you dont need to give it much input to keep its momentum going. For idle up an inverted hover will be somewhere around 30-25%
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Old Mar 30, 2011, 06:22 PM
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ihover's Avatar
United Kingdom, Knutsford
Joined Feb 2011
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Originally Posted by livonia bob View Post
And what about a couple of hundred saying to set it up for 0 pitch at half throttle.. And you went with the few people?? And how come none of us saw what these few people wrote?? So we could of corrected them? Mine hover at about 65/70% throttle in normal mode. And have lots left for climbing. Any more and the tail will not hold..
Some over on helifreak I think, saying BNF were not setup correct at factory. Thanks for clarification.
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Old Mar 30, 2011, 06:22 PM
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Australia, VIC, Elsternwick
Joined Feb 2002
985 Posts
Hmm

I also thought that mid stick was a good spot for hovering on normal mode but with the CP just found myself hoveirng at 75% stick and now that I think about it (an read the last few posts) realised that I should have initially set up my other helis this way. The least I seem to have not had a problem changing and have now changed all my other heli curves to suit.

I am also unsure about not touching the cyclic on take-off and keep asking why is it so.. Surely the gyros are set in the initial startup cycle and provided the heli is set flat during this period they should be correct. I have used cyclic before takeoff and rudder to keep the nose straight and haven't had a problem. I have also tried takeoffs without cyclic control and these have worked as well.. Does anyone have a reason why we shouldn't touch the cyclic before the model is airborne?
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Old Mar 30, 2011, 06:25 PM
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United Kingdom, Knutsford
Joined Feb 2011
204 Posts
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Originally Posted by indoorheli View Post
Correct, but the 25-30% you have above the hover point can be a very powerful amount for climbing depending on how you have it setup. Also once you get it moving you dont need to give it much input to keep its momentum going. For idle up an inverted hover will be somewhere around 30-25%
Thank you - push rods now back 3 turns, just as it was supplied! Hovering at 70% and blades look like they are 0 deg pitch at midstick
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Old Mar 30, 2011, 06:36 PM
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livonia bob's Avatar
United States, MI, Livonia
Joined Apr 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevebarrow View Post
Hmm

I also thought that mid stick was a good spot for hovering on normal mode but with the CP just found myself hoveirng at 75% stick and now that I think about it (an read the last few posts) realised that I should have initially set up my other helis this way. The least I seem to have not had a problem changing and have now changed all my other heli curves to suit.

I am also unsure about not touching the cyclic on take-off and keep asking why is it so.. Surely the gyros are set in the initial startup cycle and provided the heli is set flat during this period they should be correct. I have used cyclic before takeoff and rudder to keep the nose straight and haven't had a problem. I have also tried takeoffs without cyclic control and these have worked as well.. Does anyone have a reason why we shouldn't touch the cyclic before the model is airborne?
You can and I do fly mine off the ground,, But the reason is that most everyone is used to holding a little right stick on take off and this confuses the 3 axis gyro as it thinks you want it to go right and it tries to do what you told it but if heli is still on the ground it just keeps trying till it tips over.. So until people get the feel of getting it light on the skids and then taking over control just popping it up first works the best and is easy to learn..
You try and make it simple so people can have a good first flight.. Then as you found out you can change the way you do it.. To be honest when I let it take off it does a better job sometimes..

The mCP is nice in that you can check the controls before applying power as the gyro's don't set till the main motor has power..
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Old Mar 30, 2011, 06:42 PM
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United States, AZ, Mesa
Joined Jul 2007
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The thing is this guys - Are you setting it up for hovering or for flying? For flying, you probably want zero pitch in the middle, but if all you're ever going to do is precision altitude maintenance, then you could have zero pitch at the bottom, for more precision. If switching between these modes will confuse you, then pick one and stay with it. If you pick the "hovers at center stick" style of flying - then you will never learn 3D properly and will have difficult habits to un-learn. When you are new is when it's most important to learn good habits - for me, right now, flying a helicopter with a wonky pitch curve wouldn't mess me up - it would just feel wrong. I would be mentally rejecting the wrong setup, but a beginner would be learning the wrong setup - very different problem there.
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Old Mar 30, 2011, 06:59 PM
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livonia bob's Avatar
United States, MI, Livonia
Joined Apr 2009
16,528 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jasmine2501 View Post
The thing is this guys - Are you setting it up for hovering or for flying? For flying, you probably want zero pitch in the middle, but if all you're ever going to do is precision altitude maintenance, then you could have zero pitch at the bottom, for more precision. If switching between these modes will confuse you, then pick one and stay with it. If you pick the "hovers at center stick" style of flying - then you will never learn 3D properly and will have difficult habits to un-learn. When you are new is when it's most important to learn good habits - for me, right now, flying a helicopter with a wonky pitch curve wouldn't mess me up - it would just feel wrong. I would be mentally rejecting the wrong setup, but a beginner would be learning the wrong setup - very different problem there.
I was just out flying and thinking about this.... I don't think about where the throttle stick is I just move it to where the heli does what I want it to do. I don't have a problem when switching from say the 120SR to the mCP and often take turns flying them... I'm even starting to think of making one of the mCP's a at home flier and setting normal up like a FP throttle and start with 0 pitch at L,, just to get the better range of control for around the house..

But every time I think about this I run into the problem of how to do it.. and still have a normal NORMAL on stunt one and stunt on stunt two.. And then think you know this is fine just the way it is.. Grab another battery and go back to flying..
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Old Mar 30, 2011, 07:01 PM
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ihover's Avatar
United Kingdom, Knutsford
Joined Feb 2011
204 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jasmine2501 View Post
The thing is this guys - Are you setting it up for hovering or for flying? For flying, you probably want zero pitch in the middle, but if all you're ever going to do is precision altitude maintenance, then you could have zero pitch at the bottom, for more precision. If switching between these modes will confuse you, then pick one and stay with it. If you pick the "hovers at center stick" style of flying - then you will never learn 3D properly and will have difficult habits to un-learn. When you are new is when it's most important to learn good habits - for me, right now, flying a helicopter with a wonky pitch curve wouldn't mess me up - it would just feel wrong. I would be mentally rejecting the wrong setup, but a beginner would be learning the wrong setup - very different problem there.
Flying, now BUT... now I am grounded HH UK have emailed me saying new "B" blade grips will be shipped as soon as possible and not to fly until I have them
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