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Old Jun 07, 2011, 05:54 AM
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Question - when is an ENYA 29-111 not an ENYA 29-111 ? Answer - when its an ENYA 29-111B of course ! In 1956/57, ENYA released the first 29-111 Model 5103 which came fitted with just the high compression cyl. head. By 1959, the 29-111B was available and it came fitted with a low compression head, but with a spare H/C head in the box. How do you tell 'em apart ? Simple - the later 29-111B has a taller cylinder head with deeper fins, plus it has a cast in provision in the backplate for a pressure nipple. The earlier 29-111 is shown on the left in all photos. BOB
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Old Jun 07, 2011, 10:58 AM
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Reggy, why did you have to go and mention Dennymite? I now can't stop thinking of Marilyn Monroe !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!
(Google Dennymite Marilyn Monroe) BOB
She certainly has a smile whilst gripping the prop firmly with both hands!
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Old Jun 07, 2011, 02:39 PM
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I always thought Norma Jeanne looked better in those Radioplane photos than anywhere else - except maybe on a certain magazine cover that came out when I was about 12. Got a preference for brunette or auburn anyway.

One of the MAN editors a few decades ago got hold of an OQ-2 and ran a blurb about it. Wish I'd been able to keep the mag or copy the article. No throttle, no proportional, a several pound tube type reciever. Right, left, up, down, control by blipping the 4 position control stick. Apparently, fairly easy to fly. If it survived a mission, fly it over the recovery area, push the panic button which killed the engine and popped the recovery parachute, which returned the plane more or less safely to earth - provided it had been properly packed and hadn't been too badly holed. Apparently the wing panels were perfectly symetrical, so there was no right or left, just grab a panel and attach it to the fuse on whatever side needed one, then install the strut. No ailerons.

Just think, a war bird one could build a full size model of today and fly.
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Old Jun 07, 2011, 07:20 PM
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50+, this probably isn't the article you're thinking of (all these drones seem quite large) but its interesting anyway. There were, of course, much smaller ones - the Righter is one that springs to mind, with an opposed twin cylinder engine. BOB
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Old Jun 08, 2011, 01:22 AM
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I remember having that issue!

There's a shot of an OQ-2 in flight at the bottom of the 5th page. Listed as a Navy TDD-4. Almost straight lines on the fuse profile. It really wasn't large, wingspan was a bit over 8 feet. 7.5 hp.

Also, I think I uploaded a copy of an old Flying Models plan for a .049 powered CL model of the Republic SD-3. I seem to recall an army recruiting ad in AT showing the combat scenario, too.
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Old Jun 08, 2011, 12:18 PM
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Getting back on the Boran engine I am having second thougts, it could also be a 1941 Skychief by Supercraft, take a look at page 217 of the American
Model Engine Encyclopedia, but it's got to be one of those two
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Old Jun 08, 2011, 12:36 PM
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Hey Bob, I took a look at google, I knew Denny was a well known filmstar, matter of fact my mother was a bit of a fan and I knew he already did have
ready to fly's in his Hollywood shop but not the Norma Jeanne connection and her spraying his drone planes. I do have an original Denny Industries Kit of the
Condor plane, this was before my time but I just love the insides, espescially
the two glass/corked bottles with cement and dope and the crude balsa prop.
Within some weeks there'll be 230 pics added to my site and there's a few of the marvellous Frog Interceptor an the Puss Moth rubber prefabs of the 30'ies.
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Old Jun 08, 2011, 01:37 PM
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Hello Pisco, just in case you might sell the Webra/reduction I am interested. I did sell mine
to Danny Claes many moons ago. I did fly one even more moons ago on a Telemaster but
we never found the correct oil for the box and it made a funny purring noise Reggy
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Old Jun 08, 2011, 02:03 PM
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Hello twinstack, these very same engine stands were first made by me in the early 80'ies
and chromed by a relative of mine but I only made them for personal use, you can buy them nowadays from Peter Scott in G Britain, Peter is a nice chap and a serious collector
at one time he even had his own organisation ala Meca when living in Switserland R
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Old Jun 08, 2011, 02:20 PM
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Concerning the Fox Twin, must have a letter from Clarence Lee somewhere
where, if I remember it well, he suggested to reverse the cylinder gasket 180
to block off the bypass making the engine run better. I'll look it up in my
files R
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Old Jun 08, 2011, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reginald View Post
Concerning the Fox Twin, must have a letter from Clarence Lee somewhere
where, if I remember it well, he suggested to reverse the cylinder gasket 180
to block off the bypass making the engine run better. I'll look it up in my
files R
Yes that is correct, you can block off one of the ports to prevent the fuel from drowning out the glow plug as you cut the throttle from high to low. Just flipping the gasket over does the trick.

But you can still run the engine Ok as is, if you are using a on board glow starter, as you can have the glow starter come on at low throttle settings aleviating the problem.

But not all of the Fox twins will exhibit the problem though.
[IMG][/IMG]

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Old Jun 09, 2011, 01:38 AM
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Sabre 49

Back in post #777, I mentioned that I had just bought a used SABRE (South Australian Burford Racing Engine) 49, and here it is less the backplate (the seller had removed it, and of course, ruined the gasket in the process). After a good clean-up, I can report that it has been run, but very little. It would appear (going by the abnormally black staining in the exhaust port) that maybe when it was run, the fuel may have contained the wrong oil or too much oil. The piston and (2) rings are in fine shape, the piston itself being made from an alloy casting (a la McCoy 60) with a shaped dome crown. Unusually, the word "SABRE" had been meticulously hand filed off the bypass, and I'm thinking this may have been done at the factory after the fiasco involving Gordon and North American Aviation. I cannot think why a proud owner would do it to his brand new engine! (* I have since learned that this is the very first,1950 version of this engine which did not have a name on the bypass - the 1951 and onwards engines did ). What is the small set of visegrips and the little U shaped piece of metal doing in the photo I hear you ask? Well, the SABRE has a spraybar with 2 holes, which mean they must be correctly aligned fore & aft in the venturi. Unfortunately, there is no way to stop the spraybar from turning as you tighten the nut up, as the ferrule on the fuel line side is perfectly round. I have some soft lead sheet (0.05 in. thick) which I just cut a strip off with ordinary scissors, then bend in a U shape to fit on the actual fuel nipple(not the narrow ferrule). This then allows the nipple to be held safely by the vicegrips without marking the soft brass - just don't use Superman strength on the visegrips and crush the fuel inlet! The lead, being very soft & pliable, can be easily "molded" to shape with your fingers to fit either the visegrip jaws or the fuel nipple. BOB
Caution Do not use ordinary hinged pliers for holding the spraybar, as the tip will be crushed. Use only visegrips or similar with parallel opening jaws.
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Old Jun 09, 2011, 09:04 AM
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I used to use small fibre washers on both sides of the spray bar in these cases. The washers would deform a little and provide enough friction or bite to keep the spray bar from turning when tightening up the nut on them.
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Old Jun 09, 2011, 10:53 AM
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I remember when the fiber washers were often a regular part of the assembly. I still have an old Austin-Kraft universal needle valve assembly that has 2.
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Old Jun 09, 2011, 08:13 PM
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Needle Valves

Yes, I have about a dozen of those Austin-Craft NVA's (they fitted them as standard with the later Torpedo Specials) but I think the fibre washers were intended to seal off air leaks (they were designed to be a multi-fit Universal item) rather than stop the spraybar from turning - they certainly didn't seem to stop mine from turning! Having said that, I think that some form of "Murphy's Law" applies to needle valves - some will stay where you put 'em (when tightening up the nut) and not even look like turning, whilst others will turn at the drop of a hat ! Same goes for that little ratchet clip thingy. BOB
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